Prostheta

Just for you Perry: Personally, I think he looks more like a Ghostbuster with those goggleses.

Veritas or Lie Nielsen planes are probably the best pieces of work I can perceive myself owning anytime soon....but check out this handplane!! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=200220900600 That is just unfair. WOW. It makes making wood smaller, beautiful....

Forget the EMG45-DC - the 808 is available now, plus a bunch of manufacturers are making passives, like Swineshead. All good - keep us up to date!

"Potassium Dichromate and Ammonia react with tannin to yield rich wood tones" source "Tannin is a natural extractive of Cedar, Redwood and most other dark woods. It migrates to the surface of the wood when water is present and leaves an ink-like, coffee colored stain or overall darkness on the wood after the water evaporates." source

I'm planning to carry it out on the scrap of course, although I think a greater understanding of what to expect before testing helps a great deal. I presume that purpleheart has a lot of tannin content, so in that case i'll do a bit of digging as to which woods (such as ash) have higher tannin content. Thanks Mattia. I'll post whatever additional info I find on tannin content here for reference.

I have a build which is near to completion which is ready to be clearcoated, and I am considering treating the purpleheart in the build with weak muriatic/hydrochloric acid to further deepen the colouration. What I would like to know however, is what effect this will have on the other woods of the build or other woods in general, and how exactly does muriatic acid deepen the colour of purpleheart? Specifically, this build is a purpleheart neck-through eight-string with flamed English ash wings and headcap. Thanks all.

Oh, totally.

Hahaha....talking of videos of dudes using planes....check this idiot.... http://www.expertvillage.com/video/15623_p...ner-old-one.htm Listen for the chunking and splintering....owww.... Is he drunk? http://www.expertvillage.com/video/15626_p...planer-uses.htm Seriously though - how much does this dude need to lose a finger to advertise what-not-to-do? Anyway. Go Joe!!

Whoa, before you go cutting the headstock or drilling tuner locations, sketch on the string runs to make sure you're happy before you commit! You could quite easily get a straight string pull from nut to tuner with a bit of judicious tweaking :-D Looking good buddy.

I would add something outside of the build factor - metal sounds invariably involve a LOT of compression which can muscle out the natural sounds of the instrument more than say, a overdrive blues tone or a clean tone. Basses are more than as not played relatively clean so the character of the instrument shines. I say invariably, because I prefer to back off the distortion to regain tone and dynamic! Also, it depends on what style is being played. Big long drawn out distorted chords? Staccato picked phrased? Solos? All have their different flavours, and to a degree, styles of instruments which will suit them better. I like my EXPs for big sounds, big chords etc. I prefer my Ibanez S for solo and slower chunky characterful rhythm. I prefer my EXPs for low grindy chunk. The Ibanez is a bolt-on. One of my EXPs is also bolt-on, and the other is a set neck. I used to have a Jackson neck-through Rhoads V with a Floyd and I felt it was too biting....go figure! According to the bubblegum cards, it should have a big sound eh? Not so....there are always exceptions to the obvious.... Searching for the "ultimate metal sounding guitars" is like searching for the blackest black - there's more character and room for tone-searching to be found this side of the black-void-staring fence :-D

I can't remember whether I posted this or not, but moderate figure is great for honing your dyeing/staining/clearing techniques instead of potentially hosing an exquisite board. Whether it matches or not, I have to agree with Bryan on this one. It'll make a great top whatever.

You can tune down as far as your setup and scale will allow. Fret buzz and intonation will become a big problem, plus shorter scale lengths will mean you'll lose tone and sustain. String gauge can be increased to counteract this, but doesn't replace either. Whoever said you can only tune down to "X" sounds like they don't know the fundamental ideas of how string instruments work or are set up.

It looks like the perfect accompaniment to a: ...hypnotoad!

Clearcoating over anything that is matte will create a uniform reflective surface which will reflect light instead of the underlying colour coat diffusing light. A bare matte finish will tend to gloss up over time through use or cleaning unless it's ultra-tough, or ultra-coarse like flatbed paint. I always hated the matte/satin finishes on LTDs etc, because they soon develop glossier areas through friction against clothes, hands etc. Matte is not an easy thing to achieve, let alone maintain on something which receives repetitive rubbing. I have a glossy section just above the pickups on my Schecter bass which made me decide to buff the rest of the instrument up to match *~%'\

Progress is looking very very nice Jonas :-D

Compared to the rest of the design, why not? I think that's the least of things your eye should be concentrating on :-D This is nice and novel - it reminds me a lot of the crazy Japanese ESP shop ideas, as they're unashamed and are-what-the-are. Great work Kenggg.

สวัสดีครับ - ชอบแล้ว! เจ๋งชี้พิณ (no, i'm not having problems with my keyboard....)

Hope this dirty photo edit helps you understand what has happened here. It looks like the internal angle at the back of the V is a litte obtuse, bringing the wing tips in slightly and back too far.

GOTM!

I'll probably invest in a spray setup, purely because it enables tinted bursting. Your Vendetta has sold me on it Wez. See what you've done now? Naughty man. Are you popping a demo of this one onto YouTube like some of the previous builds?

I agree with Killemall8 - the body does look very small.

It's giving me ideas nonetheless. I have an ash body which I plan on grainfilling with black CA same as how I do mahogany, and a dark trans black could look great with pale woods like ash (at least it would to my eye for what i'm planning). Setch's blog mentioned a weird "small window" within which RPC seems to turn to pizza. Do you think this is down the the previous layer not having fully cured, cured too long or something weirder between both points? It seemed to have taken Setch by surprise as it happened out of the blue....

Wez - did you tint the RPC to do the black back on the other Vendetta you posted? I have a black back instrument in my schedule which I was going to outsource to a local painter, but if tinted RPC does the trick, I can't see why I can't do it myself.

I think in that case i'll have to give them a try - i've still not completed the sanding and finishing on the wenge/zeb 8 and I think RPC is the way to go as it'll fill up the monster pores on the first coat.

So it seems! I've got a natural tendancy to steer away from brushes in case they lose any bristles or carry contaminants into the finish. Do you think these are overkill? http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Liberon...Brush-22527.htm Probably not an issue anyway since it's easy to shoot.