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Prostheta

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Everything posted by Prostheta

  1. Good call Mattia. A good example of neck angle changing is the Les Paul neck angle having been a steady 4° for a long time in the Kalamazoo shop but varying when the factory upped and moved, new tooling and people build training were done. They were still Les Pauls :-D It's entirely possible that PRS' don't have consistent neck angles over time, although this is unlikely given heavy CNC work. If you want to do an exact copy then you need to copy every last detail of the carve, height of the fretboard from the body etc. of the specimen you like. A lot of these can be thrown out of the window if you just determine the angle yourself depending on how you adapt the design to your building methods and skills. BTW - isn't happiness spelt with an I? Sorry to jump in on pedant Tuesday!
  2. Indeed. Very nice. Too small for a V build though :-(
  3. That's one slippery shaped guitar there, Anthony. How are the cavity covers going to sit in, or are you going to rout a lip?
  4. Ahh....I see how that works....very elegant! I might have to invest in one of those....
  5. +1 on all previous comments. I use bought templates as "master templates" from which I will make a thicker 1/2" template out of MDF. Wood doesn't melt like acrylic! Plus you can use two bearings on thicker templates in case one binds up with dust or whatever.
  6. Beware of any tacks, nail or wire that might be embedded in the wood....the guy at the minimill will probably watch out for this anyway, but you won't want your saw, planer or router catching a random nail head or tack point! Sounds like you could stash lots of this wood and perhaps sell it on at reasonable cost to PGers ;-D
  7. Wow, that sounds perfect. Do you have an item link? I'll have a look at this on Rockler when I get to work....
  8. Sounds good to me - both ways to achieve the same results, which is one of the beautys (beauties?) of what we do. :-D
  9. Another method would be to get a local engraving firm who have a laser cutter to cut two templates - one for the outline of the cavity cover (keep the central part a a template for the cover itself) and one for the inner cavity which generally will have room for screw holes and a lip around the outside for the cover to seat onto. This would involve a little bit of CAD work though. That would result in something like this: http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/options/imag...ing_control.jpg Ihocky2: I presume you meant using a rabbetting bit to cut the lip around an existing cavity? I can see this leaving either a wide lip (if you want room for screws) with a small cavity or large cover, or as mentioned - no room for screwholes! Sorry if I missed your point on rabbetting bits. I vote bearing guides template cutters :-D
  10. Ohhhhh. *cough* That's one hell of pencil line you've got there.
  11. Excellent binding - that's quite a glue line you have on the top though.... Hell - do a wave because it's a great concept whether somebody else has done it or not!
  12. TOE-SHOT!!! Do I win a prize? Great work - I can't wait to hear your thoughts on that pickup....do you have a bass amp and a "normal" bass to A/B for comparison?
  13. You'd better make a mistake somewhere along the line soon Simo else i'm going to have to burglarise your house and look for your bass :-) Put some EMGs in it before I do this, and PM me first of course! On a different note, i've got an interesting deal for UKGB regs in terms of wood sourcing....will post more there as this isn't the thread for it of course! Keep up the wood gerk.
  14. Ummm. I like a nice elegant thread as I have a very short attention span. Really, I do - despite my better reasoning and intentions. What did I miss Greg? Sorry to pop off the rails there.... :-D I would go EMG-89 if I wanted both a single and a double at the bridge independantly.
  15. Passivewise, I swear by the DiMarzio Tone Zone. I'm not sure about specifications, but they're sweet as a nut and i'm considering that and a '59 for my next dual humbucker passive build. Great pups in the bridge position!
  16. Has anybody suggested coil tapping? If not: "How about coil tapping"
  17. You can't just replace the existing tenon as it has nothing good to secure it to on the neck - just endgrain and the underneath of the fingerboard. The tenon needs to extend back into the body of the neck or else the neck will just pop off, leaving a nice chunk of wood securely glued into the newly cleaned dovetail!
  18. Hifi amplifiers amplify sound with high fidelity - guitar amps are designed (in general) to produce desirable colouration of the original input source (guitar). You would find a Hifi amp probably as far from being a decent guitar amp as you can get unless you prefer ultra-clean sound "true", which to be fair is probably as far from what guitar amps will really give you! In general, guitar amps alter the dynamic quality and harmonic content of the source material as part of their general function - Hifi amps do the opposite otherwise we'd find record producers and sound engineers out of jobs.
  19. Ben, with your routing hole going into the trem cavity, at least you have a cheap route to wire your earth to your hardware....
  20. I'm not surprised they saw failures in the field....the tenon is shallower than any Gibson have made, the only saving grace is that it was a dovetail really....I think the dowelling that was done wasn't the *worst* repair choice by far....does the dowel or screwhole emerge on the outside of the heel, or is it limited to being just inside the neck pickup cavity?
  21. Ah cool - thanks! It works like maple for sure, and it has a mild flame to it too which is a bonus. I actually asked the question before I received the wood, and that was more than enough to tell me it was maple especially when I smelt it cutting! :-D
  22. The fingerboard stops short of the cavity, so the tenon will show unless the pickup and mounting ring covers it. I guess it would be possible to use a forstner bit to cut two 1" dowels into the neck block, and if the existing dovetail in the body is chiselled square and filled with new wood then two corresponding round sockets could be recessed into the body. I'm not sure how strong this would be, but it would be one of the easier ways to cut and recess into the neck. Do we know where the truss rod ends? Personally I think this is more difficult as the dowels would be a PITA to align.
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