curtisa

Depends what you're actually grounding on the switch. If you've wired it as per the diagram above, it should be correct (no ground on switch). If you're getting intermittent sound, experiment wiggling wires and components until you can isolate what the culprit is, then track down the cause from there.

Intermittent signal sounds like faulty components, dodgy soldering or things touching each other that shouldn't be able to. Grounding wire to the switch is not mandatory. Grounding wire from bridge to nearest ground point in the guitar is required for low noise operation. You will have buzzing issues if you do not ground the bridge (not lethal).

There's nothing I like more than the sound of bagpipes. Unless it's the sound of a Kenworth Prime Mover using engine brakes down a steep hill.

Unfortunately, I think eveyone beat British Leyland to it.

That'd be this doohickey:

Not that I've found. It usually has a work time of about 5 minutes or so. I'll mix up a bit at a time, enough to do half a dozen frets or so. I'm aware of the CA and baking soda trick for filling nut slots, and that does set up almost instantaneously, but sawdust takes longer for some reason.

That's not the attitude. This should be a triumph of British engineering at its finest. And not in a British Leyland kind of way.

Nice work. Looks good to me.

Damn. What a monster

Here's what happens if I re-save your BMP as a GIF and attach it to the post: Bottom line, use GIF, JPG or PNG if you want to attach pictures to a post so that they display automatically. Don't use BMP as the forum treats it as a downloadable link rather than an image.

OK, I can click on your BMP link and download it, so it must be uploading to the forum OK. I've just tried re-attaching your BMP to this post and it adds it as a link rather than a picture. I suspect the forum doesn't know how to display BMP files natively. fernades template.bmp

Just testing if drag/drop works too:

Sounds like you're trying to upload the link or shortcut to the file, rather than the file itself. If I upload a file by clicking on the "Choose Files" link in the bottom of the reply window, below: I get this: I don't think there is anything wrong with the uploader

FWIW, I've never had to move a saddle forward on a freshly installed bridge if I position it at the scale length point on the guitar. For this reason I always position the saddles nearly as far forward as possible to allow maximum backwards adjustability when placing the bridge. Shouldn't matter what type of bridge it is. Depressing the string to a fret causes it to bend, which in turn raises its pitch. Therefore it makes sense that increasing the scale length (moving saddes away from nut), rather than decreasing the scale length (moving saddles towards nut) will compensate for this behaviour. If the bridge has been positioned as above, it shouldn't matter what string gauge you use - the string will always bend upwards in pitch when depressed and will need an increase in scale length to compensate. A saddle that needs to move towards the nut after the bridge as been installed at the scale length position on the guitar because the strings want to pitch flat when played in the upper registers suggests that the bridge wasn't placed correctly to begin with, or something is wrong with fret placement. The only time I can think you'd need to move the saddle forward is when the string gauge/material changes, but this assumes the bridge was already positioned correctly when installed. Even in this case, the distance from nut to saddle after moving the saddle forward will still be [scale length] + [extra compensating length].

The width on mine (ie, the measurement taken in the direction of string travel) is 15.5mm, no taper. I'm pretty sure the Schaller website has some pretty good diagrams of the Floyd Rose hardware

Moved to the Solid Body Guitar and Bass Chat section for better house keeping.

Sounds like your bridge pickup wiring is shorted somewhere. A short between the bridge pickup hot and ground leads will cause what you've described. Post some clear pictures of the situation and maybe someone here can help out.

I can see no obvious reason in the forum software why your uploads are failing, sorry. Maybe some of our moderator staff will have an idea. Can you try using a different browser? I've had issues in the past with certain versions of Internet Explorer or when using an Android phone. If all else fails you can host the image on an external picture server like Photobucket or Flickr.

Ground the bridge. Grounding the claw will have no effect if there's no metallic connection to the bridge via the springs (which I assume you removed when the trem was removed).

In this instance I'd suggest that epoxy as a pore filler is probably not suitable for what you want to achieve. You're quite likely to seal the wood completely if you use epoxy, making it impossible for the dye to penetrate properly. Even after sanding/scraping all the excess off the surface, there's a risk that subsequent application of dye will end up looking blotchy due to the differing ways the timber will absorb the epoxy under the surface. If you're trying to dye the timber I think your original method is the way to go. A filler that sits in the pores rather than being absorbed into the timber will be more compatible with dyes.

Assuming the colour codes for your pickup wires are correct, what you have drawn there should work. If you wire it up as you've drawn it, adding back the ground wire to the switch shouldn't be necessary.

Are you getting some kind of error message when you upload?

Oooo. A mysterious pile of pale looking powders: Get your minds out of the gutter. It's sawdust. Useful tip: when trying to colour-match sawdust for mixing up a filler using CA, try sanding the same timber using different grits of sandpaper. The higher the grit, the darker the filler will look once mixed with superglue. In the above shot I've got Cheesewood sanded with 80g, 120g and 180g on the top row, and Maple sanded with 80g, 120g and 180g on the bottom row. By cutting some pretend slots into the end of a piece of MDF I can experiment with seeing which filler matches the maple fretboard best (untinted and pine Timbermate filler thrown in for good measure): After the filler dries we can sand it back and apply some finish to see how it compares. Also give the side of the fretboard a quick wipe with finish to make sure we're comparing apples to apples: At the moment to Cheesewood with 80g sawdust is looking closest. Pine Timbermate filler is second, but has a slight yellow tinge. Sanding up some fresh Cheesewood with 80g paper, the sawdust is mixed with CA and applied to the fret ends to fill the slots: Once dried the filler is sanded back and cleaned up: With a bit of finish applied, the timber darkens while the filler retains most of its inherent colour. Not perfect, but better than big gaps. The application of one coat of finish also helps highlight where I need to sand a bit more of the dried CA off the fretboard side (just below the bottom fret slot in the pic below, for example):

Depends on the switch you're replacing it with - there's no guarantee it will come with the same number of solder tabs in the same arrangement as the 5 way. I assume you've simplified the actual layout of the pickup wiring for the purposes of drawing up the diagram. There's no grounding shown on the pickups, but I assume they're in the guitar somewhere. That being the case, I suspect you can ditch the red-drawn wires from each of the pickups entirely and just leave the two blue wires and the connections to the volume pot

Just let a single drop form naturally at the tip of the bottle and slide into the end of the fret slot. Gravity does the rest. No big deal if you end up with a little blob of dried glue on the edge of the board, as you can sand it flush with some 320grit when it dries. Do both ends of each fret Sometimes you end up with a small tidemark around the fret on top of the board where the glue seeps out from under the fret crown. Once it dries you can scrape the excess away with a razor blade.