ElysianGuitars

to me, the body has a lopsided feel to it, it doesn't flow really well, and the f holes don't help any... the neck also doesn't work well with this body, and the fret access above 15 is going to be pretty terrible...

look up kxk guitars, he does his neck throughs the way you're talking... and about which titebond, i prefer regular titebond, if i'm not mistaken, titebond II isn't water soluble, which means its harder to clean up...

well, you need to think about what you like about the RG, and think about what you like about other models, and think about things you might dislike about them too... when i designed my superstrat, i was designing it for a customer as much as i was designing it for me... i gave it 27 frets, gave it a deeper cutaway and a shallower, smaller body... one thing i like about soloists over RG's is the deeper cutaway... and it helps to make it visually appealing, there are some designs i see that make me want to stab my eyes out with a tremelo arm... and yes, alder is a great all around wood, it has a fairly punchy middy tone, which just lends itself to most anything... heres a shot of my superstrat side by side with my RG7421 so you can understand what i mean

i would choose alder over basswood, alder is great to work with, not as soft, and doesn't soak up as much finish... it also, imo, sounds more alive...are you actually drawing up your own superstrat design, or are we merely critiquing your specs?

you can still put the chord through without issue with the recessed straplock...

x2n isn't too far from the evo tone wise, its a lot hotter though... but in the neck spot in parallel its a very smooth pickup, and if you were to wire a 3 way mini switch to the neck pickup for series/split/parallel, when in series it'll actually overdrive an amp, when in parallel or split its smooth as butter... definately gotta know about wiring if you want to do this stuff... and one solution for the jack problem could be to just buy another cable for your new guitar, and keep it plugged into it, so when you want switch at a show etc you just unplug from your amp instead lol... or you could put it on the longer horn of the V on the back, so it won't poke you anywhere, though then you'd have to figure out how you're gonna get a wire to it... yeah, 2 x2n's is how i prefer, i run that in the 6er i built, with the bridge in series neck in parallel... and i built a 7 string superstrat with the same config but a 3 way miniswitch for the neck pup...

should do x2n neck and bridge with the bridge in series and neck in parallel, don't gotta worry about f spaced then, and it sounds phenomenal... imo anyways. if used some recessable straplocks you could put your strap buttons anywhere. and have you considered putting the jack on the back? using a 90 degree angle cable would work well for that...

instead of tossing ideas, just toss the body lol

you have too many pictures...

i'd say neck through is even easier, its mostly in the planning, the execution of said plan is very easy

man, i really dig the body shape, i don't know what i'd do with all those electronics, but it looks like its done right.

tension definately isn't the right term, maybe something like resistance to bending...

The B string goes to the tuner furthest from the nut, as in the Fodera Extended B setup: I also got in trouble for cutting out that horn, apperently it;s going to be tough to finish. I don't mind doing extra work, and if anyone hsa any advice on spraying or sanding it that would be much appreciated. Thanks. it will be tough to finish for sure, but it'll make you a better finisher.

looks a lot like my own design,

I haven’t signed up for ss.org send me a link to check it out please peace out and thanks www.sevenstring.org theres an extended range section there, i'm sure they'd love to see your progress pics...

interesting, it still seems absurdly long to me lol, its 4.5" longer scale than my 7 string lol...

Nah, my headstock jumped the plastic dealy as I was thickness sanding it down to .593 and I got a divot. Also the acoustic back is glued onto my sides and my electric is pretty much ready to be sprayed. ah yeah that happened to people too, it sucks, i double sided taped those delrin blocks to my headstock to keep that from happening

30" scale seems awfully long for an 8 string guitar... are you even going to be able to find strings that long? lol

one phrase comes to mind... work of art.

i'd do probably a minimum of 5 coats of clear lacquer, if not more... you're gonna be wet sanding and buffing/polishing it for sure. need to sand it flat with 600 after all is said and done and it sits for ~2 weeks to cure, then you'll buff and polish it, then i'd sand it again with 1000, and buff and polish it... time consuming, but oh so worth it.

did you do a back veneer cause you accidentally drilled a tuner hole in the wrong place? that happened a bunch in my class, luckily not to me

looks like the sealer and the primer aren't compatible... either find a compatible primer or sand through the sealer and reseal it with a rattle can sealer or just primer the wood...

it looks very... um... happy... lol, actually i dig it, its a very cool looking project. looks like some good craftsmanship too.

whats that between the pickups? thumb rest of some sort? or a pickup cover just set on there or something?

I dont know if you knew this but I just got in to a shop, i moved away from my shop 2 years ago and Ive not had the tools or set up to build necks and for a while it was hard to even get a body done, but thats not a problem now and I have a shop and tools and Im building the necks again, My Problem was the same as the one your haveing right now! lack of tools I hope to see you start that 7-string soon man its going to be wicked !!METAL MATT!! nope, didn't know that, but i can definately sympathize lol