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fidgec94

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Everything posted by fidgec94

  1. I dont hate you.....but i will do you a favour and take all those *horrible* guitars off your hands. Call it an even 10 bucks?!
  2. What about all the 6 stringed baritones on the market at the moment, would they come factory tuned to B or C or something?
  3. Cheers dude <mental note - write stuff down when taking things a part>
  4. I took my locking trem apart to clean it etc. Now i must've been preoccupied cos i didnt pay attention to how it can apart. The allen screws that secure the saddle to the base have two possible position (see below). Each pair of holes are 3/16" or 5mm centre to centre. Why does it have them? For extra intonation? I also noticed that the low E saddle hole, is further back than A and D. Same with the G compared to the B and high E saddle holes. Is this for intonation as well (like when you angle a TOM for more bass intonation)? Base holes I also noticed that the saddles are in pairs (numbers are stamped on the back, '1', '2' and '3'). The thickness of the rear of these saddles differs, the number '3' block (top in picture) are the slimest, '2' is in the middle and '1' at the bottom. I can only guess that the lighter the string, the slimmer the block needed for more pivot action when using the fine tuners? Saddle differences Any help appreciated. Thanks
  5. The 500k are supposed to give a brighter sound are they not? I think it'd be down to personal preference really. My guitar used to have 3 single-coil pickups in it, but still used 500k pots. Odd The pickups were crap so the sound wasnt all that good. Now i have H/S/S, but i have rail type single coil sized humbuckers, so i really have H/H/H configuration. I use 500k volume and 500k tone, sounds maybe abit too bright. Maybe i shouldve used a 250k pot somewhere, or maybe i need as bit more bass in my sound. Im sure you can do what you originally thought...i have schematics back at home i can check later. edit: I found it (3rd pic down on the left) I dont think there will be any benefit from using 50v caps....you can use a really high value cap to protect yourself from faulty valve amps (and that connected between signal ground and actual jack-ground) but as far as normalguitar wiring, the current and volatge is quite low I think people leave about 1/4" or if using a figured top or want more than 1/4" thickness, longer shaft pots are used.
  6. To the best of my knowledge, i dont think thats would make any different. The push/pull pot is just a DPDT incorporated onto a pot to save routing a new hole. The pots would still have their inherent linear or logarithmic taper, but also able to open close a switch as well. I think the Jimmy Page wiring schematic has push/pull pots left, right and centre....
  7. yeah its always annoying when you cant get all you need in one place. I always used to order stuff on the school account (VAT free i think)...every now and again, the teacher forgot to collect the money and my little project pieces were gratis
  8. ebay is ok as long as you're sensible. Only buy from people with feedback (then again people with a bunch of bad feedback should probably be avoided!). Make sure you read the description carefully and ask the seller questions so that you know exactly what you're buying. I agree tho, i was scared the first time! Never spent more than £40 on ebay! There are many poeple on this forum that have done $1000's of trade, at least 99% of which have had good experiences.
  9. We used Rapid Electronics all the time when i did electronics at school, didnt know they did valves tho, cheers! Johnny, do you know how Rapid compare (price-wise) with maplin?
  10. Yeah, i dont think i explained myself very well I guess im just used to seeing LP's with TOM, not Floyds. No doubt a LP can do mean stuff, but when i see a LP with a heritage burst or fancy headstock inlay (like the supreme's)...i think of more pretty music than pointy, angry, growly metal. It still hasnt come out right! I know what i mean (in my own crazy deluded world )
  11. Edited to make more sense! A normal humbucker has the 2 coils connected in series (but opposite phase). When you coil split, you only use one of the coils (north or south), but this is not hum-cancelling. To re-gain the hum-cancelling, you would coil split both humbuckers (say north coil of the bridge and south coil of the neck). These two sounds are combined into one selection. You'll then have a single coil type sound but still hum-cancelling Try this for alittle backgorund theory
  12. KA claim the mother is their most versatile pickup to date what with all the wiring options. If its like 2hummers strapped together each with 4-conductor cable...thats a whole lot of mess in your control cavity
  13. Try this although im not sure what the configuration of the coils splits are (maybe both inside and both outside) I think its 1.Bridge hum only 2.Bridge and neck 3.Neck only 4.Neck and some form of bridge-pickup coil split 5.Bridge-pickup coil split only
  14. ok, Hotrock beat me to it! (Doberman is the link with the ax84.com kits)
  15. SRV, eh? am i being a real pleb?! There are loads of sites about with schematics, dunno if they'll have exactly what you're looking for. Theres another thread on here somewhere about building you own amp. Generally: Building a tube/valve amp is simpler that SS...but more expensive From what ive seen, you'll find valve schematics easier to find cos the vast majority of amp builders want to build one of those ax84.com is a great site. The P1 project is such a simple idea and highly reccomended for beginners. The site does have a link where you can go buy a ax84.co project in kit form but they seem way expensive. If you sourced the materials yourslf, maybe it wouldnt be so bad.
  16. Fear not Snork.....are ya ready?! Strat copy---->Marshall Jackhammer---->Marshall MG15DFX The guitar was bought from from ebay for £90. This site inspired me to re-finish it and replace parts but its still not that good.....just cheap in general. Hell yeah, maybe my wallet will improve enough by easter to start building!
  17. A couple more to add to your 'favorites'! This is a good page (its the Seymour Duncan schematic library, but i find this page easier to use). This is another good site, although its alittle more complicated cos its in more like standard wiring diagrams instead pictorial form. This is another
  18. I guess i can see why it'd be popular, dive-bombing and the like is something you'll never do on an ordinary gibbo. I tend to associate floyd's with mean, metal-type folk and despite the LP being very diverse, i still see it as a mellower looking instrument. Hmmm, I'll sleep on it a bit more!
  19. IMO the jury is still out on this one, i think i prefer an epi/gibbo with a TOM
  20. I like Kent Armstrong pickups, cos effective too. At about £80 a pop i can't afford Seymour Duncans and the like. My KA Distortion humbucker was £36 and the single coil Rail pickups are about £30. The mothbucker might be an interesting option in the future....
  21. Sorry to be abit off topic, but what is a knife edge?
  22. How many are there, is it like a MASSIVE swarm? I having trouble imagining how they could be so loud, do they buzz like bees?
  23. Mother bucker 27.5k? That's a spicey meatball! Any heard one of these? I just happened to be browsing and i came across it. I have a KA Distortion humbucker and that gets pretty dirty at high gain. What the heck would this sound like? I know the DC resistance isnt a direct measure of distortion, but its gotta be pretty brutal hasnt it? Wonder if it'd sound too over the top and muddy or whether you could actually hear the note/chord being played... An interesting name for a pickup. You'd expect a fork of lightening or something when you say a name like that
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