Woodenspoke

butcher bock guitar

Excelllllent!!!!

Well it is certianly not a tonal downer if that is the question. Adding multiple strips in a nice pattern is not uncommon but it done for the look rather than to save cost. I personaly do not like random glue ups clear coated they look cheap. If it's painted you have several pieces to deal with as the wood breathes during sesonal changes so you could see many lines forming in the paint over time.

I have never used CA to glue binding. Weldon sold by SM gives you a bit longer open time and a white product sold by LMI is also good with a lot less clumping and mess than the Weldon product. If you have never glued binding be careful as CA gives you a short open time unless you are using a gel which isn't mentioned.

I agree with not using fret board dust. I dont think you will get a uniform color if you are filling etched lines in inlay as it is not fine enough. Also the liquid will darken the sawdust beyond the normal color of the board and it will look darker on anything but ebony. I have also heard to just use clear on solid inlay, but I have not had that much luck with this method myself probaly because of my limited skill set.. So why is the 20 minute stuff so much better Cliff? I have been using my standard system 3, 5 minute stuff without a problem why should I switch? Really I do want to know as I want to do a better inlay job.

What I meant to say is if your through holes are a bit off it should not matter as you can align the ferrules, they can be off center of the actual hole, as long as the through holes are close enough. As long as the ferrule holes are even on the back thats all anyone will see. You can also drill a slightly larger hole behind the ferrule to connect everything. Since some are off using the pilot will be problematic so its back to the drill press and a brad point drill, also clamp down the body so nothing moves. I think drilling these through holes is one of the more difficult things to do so dont beat yourself up over it. Just make it work. One technique to drilling straight holes is constant chip clearance by removing the bit repeatedly from the hole. Takes longer but does drill a straighter hole when using a small bits. What people dont see is not a mistake, LOL.

I have never heard of Blue fungus and just did a goggle search with no results to speak off? Anyway I hope your leaving him the branches, LOL As the wood is pretty plain Jane and would most likely be a better candidate for paint. I would skip the building of a kiln and just give it space in your shop regardless of the fungus threat unless it eats the wood. let it sit for several years and dry on its own, I believe this makes a more stable product. Seal the end grain for best results using wax or a commercial sealer. Barring that thought look for a local lumber dealer who is willing to dry your wood in his kiln, may cost less than building a kiln for one load of lumber.

Anything that is glued to the underside of the top is considered bracing. I dont think too may people have had success reinventing the acoustic guitar. Double tops, carbon fiber bodies, sound holes in weird spots all trying to reinvent the wheel. The most coveted guitars I think are just made of wood from a master builder. Until you have actually built an acoustic you have no reference to how yours will sound. Example if you cant tune the top or have no clue how to do it then most likely just adding some carbon braces in a random pattern to a top seems pointless. Even people reinventing the wheel will go through a trial and error process, building up many tops with different bracing patterns and hand tuning each to see what works best. What I have seen is thin carbon fiber sandwitched inbetween spruce as bracing so the spruce can still be tuned as you cannot easly shape carbon fiber like you can spruce. I wish you luck but I have my doubts.

I have a small black container from Stumac shown here http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supp...ler_Colors.html Also I purchased a box of earth pigments from Lee Valley who no longer sells the stuff. came with almost a dozen colors which I can mix and match to my liking. First a small amount will go a long way, a loooong way. Here is another site to get you looking in the right direction http://www.earthpigments.com/. You can use just about anything that does not bleed. Dont use dye as it may stain your wood. You can also add these to CA glue as well as I find the pre mixed black CA disappointing as the color is not uniform. If you find a good source let us know.

I know a guy that might change the spec but you can go to his website: www.eguitarplans.com. Tell Chris Rob sent you, he won't do an exact spec, but he will get you close. Good web site mentioned. Also plans are available all over the web for free just not printed to scale. Spend a few more bucks and get a full usable template at www.Guitarbuildingtemplates.com no need to transfer the pattern to a template. They have a cnc version that is a bit cheaper than the laser cut.

Its not structural so it does not matter what brand. Lots of people use a clear epoxy with a black or colored powder to match. Also Ca or crazy glue is another option as it can be added after the inlay is set into the wood. I have used both with equal success.

Really depends on if you are doing them by hand or with a drill press? If you already have the through holes drilled straight then the rear ferules should be easy. A drill press and a fence to keep the ferule holes in line. A block of wood clamped across the body using a hand drill. Thees holes can be slightly off center but need to be in a straight line. If you are painting then you have less to worry about. They do make a specialty bit with a pilot which will align with the through hole so the ferule can be drilled perfectly centered using a hand drill. Pricey drill bit

Same problem finishing stage moisture. You gotta love the northeast in the summer since I lived there for most of my life. Woodworking especially outdoors is problematic in the summer, LOL. Once the rain stops it will just be a sticky mess for the rest of the summer most likely. There is always the fall. At least I am guaranteed better weather here in the next month (or sooner), the air has started to dry just not my basement shop. I can no longer afford some woods, African mahogany is my choice now as it is cheap and for the most part looks as good as Honduras. I did see a huge $2,000 Honduras slab at my local supplier and had to bite my lip as I passed it by. A bit heavy to move as well. There are many inexpensive woods I am moving to, Bubinga being one of them. With a bit of pile searching good pieces can be had for cheap. I am not a fan of this V design but I am waiting to see the finished product. Your builds are always interesting.

9, maybe 10 if you count the Mahogany body I glued up just last night. I guess the weather is cooperating for you as I am still waiting for Colorado to dry out so I can finish just 4. Crossing my fingers. Is that African mahagony?

Allways a new surprise. Now how many guitars are you building this month?

Shouldnt matter... both are adjustable height and you won't need to do any actual plunging, so if you use a plunge base you'll be using it the same way you'd use a fixed base. Personally I'd use fixed for this just cause it's marginally easier to set the depth without fighting the springs +1. there is no advantage in this operation using a plunge. If you can afford it get a plunge but it is not necessary to build a guitar.

Yes it depends on your build. If the neck is angled and you are using a tall bridge the depth will be shallow. With a straight neck pocket the pickup will most likely be deeper. It is really a subjective measurement that depends on how much work you want to do. If you are screwing the pickup to the body then you need to be precise. I for one would rather rout a shallow channel and if the humbucker legs are a bit too long for the hole I use a fostner bit to deepen the hole under each leg.

You can decide for yourself how many passes to make around the body. The deeper you go the more difficult the operation is, even when removing only 1/8". So take your time. The down side to this is it creates small lines in the wood which will have to be sanded out. The more passes the more lines that are created. Even a guide bearing can and will create their own lines (indents) as well. All of which is normal unless the bearing is not clean and lubricated in which case it will most likely burn the wood from friction. To go back to earlier comments about using two bits. First yes you can do it that way. Secondly you dont really need two bits. Once you have the deepest cut you can make using the template and the 1" template bit (I really suggest 1 1/4" long 1/2" shaft template bit to start) just remove the template and keep going using the routed body as your guide. When you get to the bottom just hang the body off the edge of the table so you can finish up without eating up your work surface. You will need to clamp the body and move it around several times as you finish up. I use a 2" bit and make one pass its not for the faint of heart as my first student can attest to, he didn't like routers after that. From now on I will use a smaller bit when I take on a new student, LOL I have seen some spiral bits on OLF that are bolted to the shaft but can not find a price list, if anyone has such a source please let me know.

China, LOL I have some inlay to sell at a good price PM me

Looks like a pretty bad repair to me even though your pictures are a bit small. First you should have not paid the guy if it wasn't to your liking. Secondly you should go back to your insurance company an ask to speak to a supervisor. Let them know that you were directed by them to this repair man and that you are not happy with the repair. According to your post they paid him directly so they are responsible for the repair being properly done. Unless you gave him the check they sent you in which case you are screwed. If Workman is right and the book value is $700 than you should have received a check for everything minus your deductible. That is if the way it works. Who is your insurance company?

I agree. I have a scroll saw and have never used it to build a guitar or cut any parts for one.

I agree a scroll saw ill give minimum gaps but a router if properly setup will give no gap what so ever. Now how many members have a router and a scroll saw. By scroll saw I assume you dont mean a hand held jig saw.

I've been wanting to try the "melted tops" that Conklin uses. It wouldn't be that hard to do with a scroll saw. Now, if you did it with a fretboard, wouldn't there be issues with the pressure from the truss rod against the joint? There shouldn't be an issue if the fingerboard blank is jointed and glued properly. Remember that in most cases the glue joint is stronger than the surrounding wood I did this when matching the sappy zebrano on my wife's Les Paul, which I incidentally need to get some more work done on soon.... I agree if propery glued the joint should be stronger than the wood. As far as using a jig saw I dont think so, a router is the tool of choice here. I read a thread here or on another forum discussing the process and the router bit selection. Its just a math problem actually with bit and guide distances along with a single pattern.

Sorry Drak I disagree, I think your guitars are nicer. Ok I do like the split fingerboard and may try it, but its not a new concept.

I would not believe everything you read. Wood is wood,I have never seen an article in a reputable magazine which picks a specific cut to be any stronger than another (from the same tree). Its shrinkage and movement thats the key to why quartersawn is better. As far adding rods forget it is not necessary on a 7 string guitar. If it was a bass sure than consider it, as it is a longer neck and the forces acting upon it are much greater.