Woodenspoke

Try using a square to make sure its 90 deg. If you cant square off a board maybe wood working is not for you, or your tools are as bad as your skills are. Sorry if this is offensive but its the abilty to work with the materials that allows you to build a guitar. there is no trick to it.

Mine neither. (fortunately) Actually it is not expensive and actually it does dry clear. It is waterproof though.- (why is that a bad thing?) If you ever want to stain a top directly any glue that was left on the wood will repel the stain and ruin your attempt. I am not saying you will be staining the wood. We have to make a generalized assumption of what glue would work best for guitar building and this isn't it. You are the first to introduce this glue into the forum.. That should ring a few alarm bells given all the guitars people build and crazy things people use. In addition this glue has been available for may years if it had any place as a PVA alternative it would have been said already. My last 2 cents worh of whatever you want to take away from my comments.

Yes and I answered that it was urea-formaldehyde two part glue. in the first reply. The only difference is an application to the wood of some bonding agent which is separate from the glue. This is a standard glue in shops that do veneer work and I can pick it up at and good woodworking store. But again the color is not clear when dryand its waterproof when dry. For just those two reasons you should not use it. I have no idea what the joint strength is but I will assume its good given the application it was intended for. But if you hold up an inexpensive bottle of yellow or white PVA glue the difference in price and the other factors I just mentioned again make it unsuiteable and expensive. Did I mention you need to wear gloves when using this glue. But if you have it and want to use it go right ahead, my babbling has never stopped anyone from doing what they had intended to do anyway...

add a belt.. thats what the line looks like..LOL

well not having a good info on these woods its not going to worth it country is Philippines by the way. I found someone selling rosewood and maple costs $50 without the shipping and only 3mm and 5mm thick. the 5mm is $90 board is 4feet by 6feet. how thick should the fretboard be? I guess ill have to gamble on the price... 4 x 6ft seems out of place for such a thin board or rosewood species, 4 inches would be closer to reality x 6 ft. I would be skeptical of the offering unless you converted the measurements wrong.. You could work with a 5mm thick boardas long as it isnt warped. Most production guitars are similar in thickness

You are just going to have to do a test on some scrap wood and see how it looks..

Most of those woods are unsuited. Not being able to find tangible information; the Jack Fruit seems the most promising (or lakuch) as it it similar to teak. But I have never seen half of those woods up close. maybe if you put in a location in your profile someone has a supplier close by that does not cost big money or will sell you a spare board. Then again if you destroy your ibby with crap wood is the money savings really worth it??

Most people refer to the Polyurethane gorilla glue but yes he could be talking the PVA stuff. But again its water resistant or titebond II stuff. Not rcommended...Nor for gluing rocks either LOL I notice they make every kind of glue now, how will I be able to answer a post when they say gorilla glue. Too bad no one learns anything about glue in the bottleexcept the name on the bottle and the word wood....

Rocks for gluing rocks together not guitars..

From the pictures my first thought is stability and how much wood is in that joint and where would it break. Yes I agree the single cut will work for this very reason but the double cut neck looks weak. I believe PRS modified the heel design (made the heel longer)to eliminate unwanted vibration.

gotcha; thanks but how are you applyig the flux? as soon as the iron touches it, it goes in a puff; is there still enough on the tip to apply to the pot? much appreciated, im only building off how i was originally taught For the wire end I just dip the ends in the flux and hope I dont get a big blob. If i get a blob I wipe it off on the side of the flux jar. You can buy liquid flux as well but I find for guitar work a paste is just as good. For larger items I usually use a toothpick and use a small or large blob. Yes the flux shoud bubble and smoke off as all it does it clean the surface of the connection. Flux comes in several types but they alll work. Its the beauty of soldering. Find some old parts and practice

I found a link its just another urea-formaldehyde two part glue. Sorry its nothing special and the cost far outweighs any benefit of using it. In fact it is water proof so if you are using stains its not recommended. Better used for wooden planes than guitars. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urea-formaldehyde

Flux is used to remove oxides from the soldered joint which allows the solder to flow. It is not for cleaning iron tips. You can use a damp sponge or a bronze scrub pad also sold for cleaning excess solder from the tip. A tip cleaner comes in a small tin about the size of a quarter and should be used sparingly. The sponge and bronze pad should be used constantly to remove excess solder and to keep the tip from darkening.. Its almost impossible to get wires attached to the back of a pot without flux. Soldering is trial and error and my techniques for guitar wiring certainly do not follow basic soldering guides but it works for me..

Its nice to know that they are giving you expert advice. LOL Most guitars are around 13 " so taking into account the kerf and a cutoff that is 7/8" thick on a good day you will need to glue on several pieces. You would be better off taking a body pattern and see where you would need the wood added rather than do what you are describing.

I didn't see the humor anywhere on the OP, maybe why I let this play out without my comments as the whole thing seemed quite silly to begin with... I am not sure where this plane gem I am responding to fits in to scale but here is my two cents. Planes come is all sizes, the longer planes such as a #7 or #8 are used for joinery hence why they call them jointer's. These will give you the flattest surface provided they are setup properly. If you have a #7 thats what I would use over a #5. If you are removing wood a shorter plane with a slight curve on the blade is best such as a #4. A #5 is the most common plane sold and you can find these at the cheapest prices used, they span between a #7 jointer and a #4 smooth plane and were bought to try and save money rather than buy two planes. They have there uses but were not really suited to either task.

What kind of Oak, I bet it's not red Oak. I am tired of the Brian may story. If Oak was such a great wood for guitars every manufacturer would be making guitars out of Oak..end of story. Plus I am sure if the table or mantle May used was made from a coconut tree we would all be talking about coconuts... You can use whatever you want but frankly red oak is best left for furniture. I personally find it unappealing. If you like filling really deep wood pores than more power to you. But for me I hate filling pores..

Thanks. But any good PVA that isnt waterproof is fine...

When I re read that the rods were not welded that is an issue. Even with a poor weld these rods should hold up. I have had to grind welds to get the rods to fit even on a good one...

As said they will both work. #1 can be done in 3 steps and #2 done in 4 steps. #2 will be a stronger body.with less shifting over time.

The simple answer is no. a laser cuts and as suggested will darken the wood. All you will have afterward is a dark etched surface with no details. I have never seen a Giger up close so I suggest you look for one and see how they did it. Looks to me like a print.

Interesting, seems they are out of the retail business all together http://www.cncguitarparts.com/ whatever that means As far as I know they were the only game in town for the expanded caul selection.

Well sounds like its not a POT..Here are some general statements that do or dont pertain to your skills but is for everybody soldering their guitars. I have seen some really poor solder jobs people have done without realizing that soldering takes a bit of practice. in fact they did'nt realize how bad it really was until I cleaned it up. Tell tale signs you need help.. are blobs of dull flat looking solder on your connections 5x's the thickness of the wire. You are reusing stuff you found in a drawer belonging to a previous relative who passed away...your solder is so thick, with a torch you can solder copper pipe in the basement..your solder is from Home Depot...All bad signs 1. Use the proper electrical solder in the proper thickness (see below). 2. have a soldering iron that is hot enough to melt the solder quickly onto the connection. Soldering the back of pots also requires a hot soldering Iron and a single application of solder which includes multiple connections, quick high heat and flux. 3. Solder flows from the tip to the connection, you do not melt the solder between the tip and the connection. So in short solder starts out being melted onto the tip and transfered to the connection 4. use flux on both sides of the connection before you start, even after the next step 5. Tin (add solder) the wire before you make the connection also use flux. The solder shoud just lightly coat the wire strands..Yes only use stranded wire for guitars. The final result should be a bright shiny silver connection with minimal solder. A dull solder connection means it was too cold and is not a good electrical connection or a strong connection. A $100 soldering station will heat up a soldering iron in 40 seconds to up to 800 degrees and keep the temperature constant while you work. If you plan on doing many guitars its a good tool to invest in. Proper size and type of solder that isn't too old is required. Kester Solder .032" round and 60/40 mix is a good place to start an interned search. If you like to Google most name brand solders can be found cheaply..There is a range of solder under what I just mentioned. A flux core is suggested even when using a paste flux, in case you need to add more solder to a joint you will not need to add additional flux to the joint. I acquired my soldering skills over many years as a service technician as well as doing onsite board repairs. I can use junk irons and good irons to make a good connection its all in how you go about it, and if you have a bare minimum of the proper tools and supplies. A good joint take less time and effort.. really...

Truss rods again imagine that. I have never seen a truss rod sold that was junk. Cheap yes, how can two pieces of steel be junk if they work.. I think its less of what you pay for that what you want to see in a truss rod. Besides all you see in the end is the nut and very little of that. The LMI rod is compact and Has a small nut.. I like that. The rod sold on grizzly.com is cheaper but the nut is large. Similar rods are sold like this. The Stumac rod is a different beast entirely and while its nice, its deeper than many others, but the head choices give you options. I dont like the fact that the 3/16" slot size does not come in a 1/2" size router bit for my router table.. Annoying but I can live with it. So rather than quality I think its a matter of preference, or how much work you want to put into the slot. Saran wrap thats a new one. Silicon is a good product it is rubber soft and dampens any vibration between the neck and the rod as well as stoping any rattling. Dont expect the wraps on these rods to suppliment some sort of seating compound. You dont need to fill the slot. I suggest at least 4 points minimum add a dab so its secure and free of any nose killing, driving you insane vibrations. Softness is a plus when selecting a seating compound. for the reasons above and it allows the rod to move when you turn it.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=42613 Maybe easier to read this post than read the same old half baked answers. then maybe you will understand why Titebond Original is the glue you need.

I am not sure what you are talking about with the glue and striping so I will just answer the basic question. First those are furniture Dyes not usually used for guitar work. Mostly because they are not bright enought nor do they come in guitar colors. Very few guitars look like a piece of stained furniture.. That being the case anything can be used with another incompatible product by adding a compatible layer between them. In most cases this is shellac.