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Rick500

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Everything posted by Rick500

  1. Rick500
    I was fortunate to get back the guitar that was stolen from me (not built by me; it was a Carvin DC127) seven years later, when I saw it on eBay, and the seller was a great guy and sent it back to me. Wouldn't let me send him any money other than the shipping cost.
  2. Rick500
    Wow, I've never had a bit break like that. Was it new? What brand is it? Were you cutting the whole thickness of the body?
  3. Rick500
    Having had a guitar stolen myself, I understand how it feels... Consider it posted in the other guitar forums I'm part of. Hope this person is found and gets what's coming to him. Not much worse than a thief... Grr... http://forums.carvinmuseum.com/viewtopic.php?p=252245#252245
  4. Rick500
    Never thought of that. I don't see why it wouldn't work. Better to prevent the problem, of course, but yeah, that would probably work.
  5. Rick500
    Remember to cover your pickups with masking tape before using steel wool near them, or they'll pick up all those bits of steel wool that come off, and it's next to impossible to remove it all.
  6. Rick500
    You really, really need to read Melvyn's book. There are tons of answers to questions you don't even know you need to ask yet. In fact, I'd go so far as to say, don't attempt to build a guitar without first reading that book. It's amazing how many little things come up that require guidance when you start building.
  7. Rick500
    That's not too bad. The screws are going to just go through the neck pocket holes, and only bite into the neck itself anyway. You can either not worry about it, clean it up (if I were cleaning it up, I'd probably route out a circle just wide and deep enough to take out the tear-out, and inlay a new piece into it), or fill it with epoxy or wood filler.
  8. Rick500
    Yep, a good router can do just about anything! I make coffee and popcorn with mine.
  9. Rick500
    I'm thinking that my router radiusing jig would work to make radius sanding blocks, with a sled with the opposite curve as in the pic. In fact, I think I remember someone here saying they'd made blocks that way.
  10. Rick500
    Eh, I might. Let me check on that when I get home this evening.
  11. Rick500
    I just ran the wire through a hole I drilled from the bridge pickup cavity to the hole for the stud, stripped about 3/4" of the wire, and tapped the stud into the hole with the bare wire coming up from the bottom of the hole through the middle of the stud, then screwed the post into it.
  12. Rick500
    The answer to all those questions except the last one is, "it depends." You really need to lay everything out on paper and see how deep all the routes need to be. Pickups are different depths, necks are different heights, etc., etc. Where to get a neck pocket template? Make your own, or you could look on eBay or stewmac.com. The answer to the last question is "Under no circumstances should you spray lacquer (or anything else, really) without a proper respirator." Nitrocellulose lacquer will do serious harm to your lungs.
  13. Rick500
    Carvin's necks, when sold separately, don't have a logo. You can get them with any of the options Carvin offers for necks on their guitars (woods, radius, inlays, headstock shapes [or uncut] etc. etc.).
  14. Rick500
    I have one that I used a few times in my little 10" Ryobi benchtop drill press. I didn't quite get the hang of getting it set up and using it right, I guess; maybe it's because of the cheap drill press. I haven't tried it since I got a decent drill press (Jet 17").
  15. Rick500
    I'd definitely agree that 30 days is not enough time to do a decent job building your first guitar from scratch. Maybe you could do part of it as your project and then get the rest done on your own time? Maybe just build a bolt-on neck or build a body, or build a set of templates for both?
  16. Rick500
    Take a look at Melvyn Hiscock's book for answers to the first two questions (or do a search on the forums).
  17. Rick500
    Jescar has stainless steel fret wire. One pound minimum order.
  18. Rick500
    I like Sperzels better than anything else I've tried.
  19. Rick500
    I've been using mine already. With 6" x 8" piece of poplar clamped up as a makeshift laptop table, among other things.
  20. Rick500
    It's not in the manufacturer's online catalog (although I didn't look before; can't say for sure that it ever was).
  21. Rick500
    Heh, yeah, you're probably right.
  22. Rick500
    I was thinking about adding some leather to the wood jaw facings, but cork is a good idea too. I think my jaw facings are mahogany, or at least something that looks remarkably similar.
  23. Rick500
    8/4, 4/4, etc. are just measurements of the thickness of wood in quarter inches. 8/4 is eight-quarters thick (2"), 4/4 is four-quarters thick (1"), etc.
  24. Rick500
    Congrats, Dad!
  25. Rick500
    Poplar is inexpensive. I'd choose that as practice material over plywood any day. And as was mentioned, unfigured maple would be great for a practice neck (or any neck, really). You might even be able to find some suitable maple for a neck at Home Depot. (They carry it in some locations, but not all.) +1 on Melvyn's book. It's a must-read. Look on stewmac.com for a bridge placement calculator (click on Free Information).
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