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Rick500

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Everything posted by Rick500

  1. Rick500
    Absolutely. Black limba is a great choice for neck material. Here's one I'm working on.
  2. Rick500
    Yep, the edge toward the fretboard... the point at which the strings are free to head down toward the bridge.
  3. Rick500
    First you have to know your scale length. Measure from the breaking edge of the nut to the middle of the 12th fret, and double it. Then go here and enter in the appropriate information, and it'll tell you what you need to know.
  4. Rick500
    Yeah, I feel that way about my router too. I kind of look at it for a few seconds before I approach it... make sure it's not up to something.
  5. Rick500
    I'm going to try 42 degrees because it's an even awesomer number. I'll let you know how that goes.
  6. Rick500
    If anyone is so inclined, you can order a free SawStop demo DVD here.
  7. Rick500
    Yeah, you can drive yourself nuts trying to get the absolute lowest possible price on each individual thing, only to lose the savings to multiple shipping fees.
  8. Rick500
    Also, usually Wal-Mart, amazon.com, Woodcraft, probably Rockler.
  9. Rick500
    Best bet is to ask whomever you're buying it from, if they can thickness it for you. If not, be really nice to the guys at a local cabinet shop (I think the going rate is a large pizza and a six pack) and see if they'll thickness it for you. Edit: Or if you're near Louisville, bring it on by and I'll do it for you...
  10. Rick500
    The trigger doesn't work on salt and moisture, it works on capacitance.
  11. Rick500
    There are some pictures of actual SawStop saves here.
  12. Rick500
    I have a similar situation -- the woodworking stuff is in the unheated/uncooled garage. I leave all my wood out there. I considered bringing the wood indoors, but decided that it'll always be worked on out there, so I figured it would be worse to store it inside and then take it out to the garage to work with it.
  13. Rick500
    I've been browsing around for that book today, and the latest one I've found is from 2005. I think that's the newest edition.
  14. Rick500
    Thanks for that. Kenny -- You can find Tru-Oil at WalMart (usually), Woodcraft, probably Rockler. You can get it through Amazon.com as well.
  15. Rick500
    Question. Just making sure the sanding sealer will not interfere with an oil finish. My thinking is that it'll be fine as long as I sand back through it and leave it only in the pores.
  16. Rick500
    Similar question for a black limba/padauk/flamed maple/padauk/black limba laminated neck: The padauk has some pretty noticeable pores in it (although, the padauk laminates are only about 1/8" wide). It's going to get either a tung oil or Tru-oil finish. I was going to just oil it, but I'm thinking now that it would be better to fill the pores in the padauk first. Sanding sealer?
  17. Rick500
    They sell these at the Woodcraft store locally. Blade-stopping ability aside, it's also a very nice saw. (I have a much cheaper table saw that I don't really like, and avoid using if at all possible.)
  18. Rick500
    Great tips, guys. I'm printing this thread...
  19. Rick500
    I've been doing one-piece necks with no scarf as well. (Well, more than one piece--they're laminated--but no cuts to make the headstock.) I need to do one with a scarf soon. Maybe next project.
  20. Rick500
    They were just joking about the banning thing.
  21. Rick500
    I modeled the neck of my first one after the neck of my Carvin California Carved Top, so it has the same headstock angle... I think 14 or 15 degrees. I like it so I'll keep using it (and my templates are already built that way now...) Edit: I guessed poorly--it's 11 degrees.
  22. Rick500
    To rephrase my earlier comment... I was speaking specifically of rounding over the edges of the cuts when I said I do them by hand (with sandpaper).
  23. Rick500
    I just do it by hand. It's not that much work, really, and you can get it just as smooth and flowing by hand as you can with a machine.
  24. Rick500
    I have a 16" block that someone here on the forum made me. (Sorry, I forget who it was... maybe the same guy as the link goes to?) I built a jig for my router that I use to radius fretboards, but I think the block is still great for fine sanding. I do need to add handles though. Great idea.
  25. Rick500
    What's the conventional (or unconventional) wisdom on where to place the pickup on lap steels?
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