Hector

If you got a router that's enough! all you need now is a rasp and some sandpaper. (a drawknife or spokeshave would help too, but you can make a neck without them).

I've never seen or heard anything like that. seems crazy to me. omg.

I have one of the Nichelson rasps, bought at woodcraft and it's the best tool I got for sure. I highly recommend them. simply amazing.

how did you made the neck without the fingerboard?? and routing for the CF will be harder if you already tapered the neck.

I don`t know if it`s just me, but I`m not able to bend figured maple binding for the tight cutaway of the les paul. all the other areas work just fine. but in the cutaway is gonna be hard to bend the wood without breaking. maybe that`s why they use plastic binding on the les paul, and maybe that`s why prs has the natural binding.

I use just 2 little drops of CA glue. that's enough.

+1 for CF rods.

If you build a bridge out of wood, you will have little room to adjust intonation. string height is easier to adjust. just file the saddle until you reach the desired height. but intonation is harder. just like an acoustic. if you make the saddle wider, you'll get more room to adjust intonation. but I don't know if that's the way to go, I would use a regular solid body bridge.

gluing end grain to end grain, I don't know if this repair would work. but you should try it. if it doesn't work, scrap it. but maybe you could glue it, and then reinforce like the pic above.

fill it with wood. make a dowel to fill the holes. drill the 2 outer holes all the way, and the other ones only halfway. then turn the guitar over, mark the positions on the other 4 holes, and drill the other half. worked for me.

I don't know if you could notice any difference at all. the only thing you could do is try it. I wouldn't do it, but that's just me.

Amazing wood!

I already told you how I would do it. step by step. I just wouldn't use the template.

weisenborns has hollow necks, not exactly. the are an extension of the body itself, so they are hollow, just like the body of a acoustic guitar. on lap steel guitars you can hollow the neck to make it ligher, since it's one FAT neck. but on a regular electric, it wouldn't be a good idea. I never saw anyone making chambers on a neck. it just doesn't make any sense for me. I think it would weaken the neck too much.

I did mine with the angled top, just like prs does. let me see if I can find a picture that shows this... I don't see any problems with this because you get a flat surface to work on, just like on any other guitar. I had no problems routing the pickup cavities and the neck pocket, my only advice would be to do the neck angle on the body, not on the neck (to avoid problems due to the neck taper)

"I'm not sure what you mean by angle the top. Right now the body is just shy of 2" thick so I have plenty of material for carving. I will probably do the traditional PRS carve but I'll probably get an inexpensive piece of scrap wood to practice on first!" PRS has angled tops, plus the neck angle. If you don't know what he meant, then do some research. and try to find a original prs to see what that is. "I agree that it would look odd to have the grain run perpendicular. I do have the option that I could bookmatch the piece of stock and then I can get the grain to run parallel with the body. That piece of stock is 2" thick as well so there is plenty of wood to work with." +1 on using the grain paralel with the body and neck and maybe all other wooden parts on the guitar. "But if I do go with a veneer I want it glued on before I cut the headstock out. I think it would be a huge pain to cut it exactly and glue it properly." Cut the headstock first, then glue the veneer and trim the overhang with a chisel or a knife. that's quite an easy task. you just have to read the wood and know what direction to go with the blade. You can also make your own veneer out of mahogany, I see that you're gonna have LOTS of wood left from that neck blank. IMHO you're wasting way too much wood. And one last thing, I wouldn't make the neck using the templates. now that you've already glued the ears to the headstock part, there's no way to use that template. but there are many many ways to build a neck without templates. My way is to taper the FB, cut the fret slots, make the scarf joint, glue the FB, cut the excess wood on the neck, use the safe-t planer to thickness the neck (I place a small piece of wood in the first fret to make the taper on the thickness of the neck) plane the headstock back, use the router to shape the headstock, glue the headstock overlay, trim the excess with a sharp chisel and knife, and then use the router with a pattern cutting bit to follow the FB and cut the neck flush with the fb. I sometimes do these things in another order. but it has worked very well for me.

My idea would be to just leave it alone. removing wood to make the neck fit will be to much trouble, for nothing. and I mean A LOT of trouble. everything would have to be moved. It's just not worth it. i'd say, NEVERmind the gap. unlike the tube in london.

I was just reading this on the warmoth site "Strat® necks will fit into a Tele® pocket and intonate correctly. Gaps will however be apparent at the corners" sorry, I don't think there's something you can do. and I don't think that you should do something. just put them together and play it!

If the wood is dry enough I don't think it matters. and if its not, you're not supposed to be using it for guitar building

I see! I tried to find the archtop model in the prs website, but it wasn't there. So I thought that the archtop and the hollowbody were the same models. but in the picture you can obviously see the difference. that's some nice guitars you got there blackdog! congrats.

Are you sure that the hollowbody is the same thickness of the mccarty? archtop if you compare to this one (which is a custom, not a mccarty, but it looks way more than 3mm. custom

Here we go again. again! lol.

Body Width at widest = 331mm Body Width at narrowest = 200mm Body Length = 455mm again, just aproximations. not dead on. How Deep the Neck goes into the body (just curious more than anything) I think I goes to about half of the neck pickup cavity, maybe a little bit more, but I made mine with a long tenon, going all the way to the end of the bridge pup cavity. hey dave, the dimensions listed above are from my custom 22. so the mccarty is a little bit thicker, but I don't know how much. the mahogany part is 29mm thick in my custom. the top is hard to measure, but I think it's something between 20mm and 30 mm at the highest part.

Body thickness = 49mm at the thickest part, 34mm in the lowest part. Depth of pick up pockets = it's up to you. Depth of electronics pockets = as deep as it needs to be. Model of stop tail bridge that PRS uses = I don't know if can get the same exact model, but stewmac has some options. these numbers are not exact, but it's pretty close I think, at least I remember this way.

hey todd, sorry about that, I was just still pissed about some other forum members that always ask other people's opinions and then just ignores them.