JPL
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Everything posted by JPL
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Thanks for the kind words. With the exception of the acoustic pickguards mine are multi ply. They are all finished with poly so durability isn't a big problem, just the usuall pick scratches. I've had the most problems with the single ply acoustic pickguards. It doesn't take much of a screw up to make it curl or pucker. I have quite a collection of unuseable acoustic pickguards. Nothing like learning the hard way.
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Dan Erlewine recommends naptha and a toothbrush on really nasty boards. I've tried it and it will strip off any grime right down into the pores. This will also strip the natural oils from the top layer of unfinished wood so you only want to use just enough to get the job done. I dipped the toothbrush into the naptha and shook off most of it leaving just a damp brush and follow up with a rag to get the loose crap off. Let it dry for a good long time and then give it an oil treatment of your choice.
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Design Your Own Guitar | Contest
JPL replied to Hitone's topic in Site Feedback, Issue Reporting and Test area
Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think you can get a court appointed attorney for a civil lawsuit. Certainly not if you are the plaintiff. -
Wow, that's good to know Craig, I've never really worked with recon but it has so many advantages. Is the hardness the same? "Real" malachite is carvable with a good knife, can the recon be worked the same? I'm sure it would take at least as good of a polish.
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Malachite dust is very toxic and must be worked wet. For that reason alone I think it would not be a good choice for inlay into wood. It's relatively soft (about 4 on the mohs scale) and can be worked without diamond tools but the water needed would trash your fretboard. I would recomend reconstituted stone or skip it. It's a shame because it would be a really cool inlay material with the eyes and banding.
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I'm not familiar with the guitar you're talking about but I bet it could be hard to smash it into a good looking pattern. Fun but hard. I still think the tape would work but would need to be done differently to use cutters. Since you don't want to cut from the back side of a mirror (the backing will chip away) try putting low tack tape on the back, cut to your hearts delight Then tape the front, remove the back tape carefully and you're ready to glue it one in one piece. I hope that makes sense. Like I said, I've never done this but I've done a lot of glass work (stained and fused mostly) and I think it's worth considering. Also, do your back a favor and find some very thin glass, that sucker will weigh a ton!
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I've never tried this so follow my advice with extreme caution. Tape the hell out of the front of the mirror to hold it together and then smash away. Glue it on with the tape in place and remove the tape after the glue sets. Heating and then quickly cooling might give some cool breakage. I've done that with marbles but never sheet glass but it might be worth wasting a sheet or three to see if it works. WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!
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Do you mean that after you get through school you can quit learning? I guess you could coast by like that but it doesn't show much of a passion. The best in any field never stop learning. There is a wealth of talent here and other forums. I don't think there is anyone that can't gain from the knowledge and inspiration available. This place (and others) is the most important tool I have as a struggling hack and I don't ever foresee ever being good enough to stop absorbing the offerings here.
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Boggs, Carvin also carries a twelve string bridge that is fully intonatable. (is that a word?) I haven't used it yet but it is very well built. If you like I could take some good close up pictures. BTW: Welcome to the board boggs, you're a welcome asset here.
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Or build your own...
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People tell me he looks more like the zig zag man.
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I've made a few pickguards and truss rod covers from veneer. The workmanship on some of them is not as good as I'd like to see but I'm slowly learning. The laminating is the easy part, just sandwich the layers between two boards and clamp the hell out of it. I used epoxy for a little added strength but I would think about any good glue would work. Titebond did make the veneer curl making the sandwich hard to handle but was still workable. This one on my saga kit was just laminated onto the original plastic PG. This one is four layers of veneer. I built it for my Schecter. Here are a couple of the PGs that I've built for acoustics with just one layer of veneer. And a truss rod cover for Woody.
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i mean the real poly...the multi part type...that stuff you buy in the hardware stores is not the same Sorry, I miss spoke. I'll go back to my corner.
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Poly does a great job filling pores... for a few weeks or months. Then it shrinks right down into them leaving little dents all over. Oh well, I learned from my mistake and will take the extra step or two next time.
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Not sure how crazy this is, it's just Bill Lawrence's standard Tele wiring. The diagram below is a little hard to read but it's two pups, five way switch, one volume, two tone with a push pull bridge pot to flip between tone and Q-filter. I love this setup. Switch positions are: 1. Neck 2. Bridge/neck 3. Bridge 4. Bridge/neck 1/2 out of phase 5. Neck with 10% less low end
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I've only named one guitar, Woody Woodpicker. My sweety loves it when I play with my Woody.
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Yes Bill is from Germany and he would probably love to chat in his native language. I have to warn you, Bill loves to talk so count on a long call. Bill and Becky are not great at answering email. I know it's a pain for international customers to call but it's the only sure way to get in touch with them. I hope I'm wrong but don't hold your breath waiting for a reply, they're very busy people. Becky does pop into the forum from time to time so it would be worth posting there.
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The signature matches perfectly but there is one sure way to find out... does it sound like crap? If so it's stewmac. Seriously, give Bill and Becky a call and they will be more than happy to help you.
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Just to clarify: You can get a maple (birds eye or regular) fretboard with the Carvin kit and they now offer rosewood. You can also get a paddle head so you can cut your own headstock. Of course pickups are a matter of taste but Carvin's pups are very well designed and made. They have been making them as long as fender has been in business. I have a few Carvin pups and while I like them I prefer to use Bill Lawrence.
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Not sure if I can be of much help but I'm using redwood on the back of my current hollow/chambered project. There are no sharp edges so binding isn't an option but it would be a good idea if they are more square. A good sneeze would dent my hunk of wood so I gave it a CA treatment. I think I would use epoxy next time but only because I had a hard time with the CA. Had to be user error because many people use it with no problems. I don't know if it would be a problem with a true hollow body but my walls are pretty thick so it's not really an issue on this one. I've seen plenty of redwood acoustics so it can be done. Warmoth gets pretty paranoid because of warranty issues so I take what they say with that in mind.
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I wish I was your garbage man!
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Warning: The following advice is second hand and not from experience. For a fender neck Dan Erlewine says the sure way to not screw up the FB is to saw a kerf through the center of the nut end to end as close to the bottom as you dare. Then grab it with a pliers and snap it in half, it should pop right out at that point. Now if anyone has a better way I would love to hear it. I have a fender waiting for a new nut and would love to hear from someone that actually knows what they're doing.
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I haven't done a wood inlay on a fret board yet but have inlayed some marquetry. On a fret board I think you would want to use something a little thicker than veneer but I think it could be done with proper planning. Also, depending on what kind of wood you use you might need to seal the inlay to keep finger crud from working it's way in to the wood. More of an intarsia technique might be better but I have no idea what that would do to the stability of the board with the different woods moving with climate changes.
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Where does Stew Mac get its fretsaw blade?
JPL replied to bigdguitars's topic in Tools and Shop Chat
I think what you are seeing is the fret saw and miter box for $79.40 The fret saw it's self is $19.90 or $24.90 with the depth stop. -
This is the Breeze series of the AE185. It was the major inspiration for me to build Woody Woodpicker. They were inlayed by T. Breeze Verdant for Carvin. I suppose that it's not impossible that Carvin might do such a thing again but those things were not cheap. Good thing too or I would have never tried to build a guitar in the first place if I had the do re me to buy one.