darren wilson

Start with your EQ flat and make minor adjustments. Or leave it flat and get an external graphic EQ pedal that will give you more control.

Ah, sorry i had your amp mixed up with a newer version. But the same principle applies. Each channel has its own "master" volume control. If you have your "Pre" and "Saturation" turned down to zero, you probably won't get any sound out of that channel anyway (if it's anything like my old Bandit), so i'd still say turn the Pre, Saturation and Post all down to zero and only play through the "Normal Gain" channel.

Because on those two channels, the "post" is just for controlling the overall volume of those channels relative to the others. You still have an overall "Master" volume control. Since you don't want to use those channels anyway, my suggestion is to kill the two distortion channels completely. I had a Peavey for ages, and i found there was a bit of audible bleed-through from the distortion channel into the clean one. That's why i suggested shutting everything to do with the distorted channels off. That also gives you a nice, silent "standby" mode using your footswitch. http://www.peavey.com/media/pdf/manuals/80301445.pdf

Turn the "supersat" and "post" controls for the crunch channel and lead channel down to zero, push in the "PRE" knob on the normal gain channel, and disconnect your footswitch. Then just plug your compressor and distortion into the front of the amp.

Uhh... it's the back of the guitar!

Parker describes their sitka spruce Fly Artist as "lively, lush and ferocious." Here's what else they have to say about it.

As always, stunning work! P.S. check your link... you've got a double " in there.

Dammit! That's what my next guitar was going to be made of, but now you've spoiled the surprise! I guess i'll make it out of WOOD now.

I voted for mushy's guitar. I like seeing new ideas tried out, and the embedded pickup idea is really cool, so i give mushy total props for having the guts to try out something new. Plus, the build quality looks quite excellent, so i had no hesitation in giving that guitar my vote.

Hey, everybody! Litchfield is back!

Carvin's 7-string neck-thru blanks are 25.5", so clearly they have the fret spacing programmed into their CNC machinery. Give them a call and see if it's a possibility.

There are loads of places on the 'net where you can find Photoshop tutorials, and i don't think this is exactly the right place for another one. Besides, i don't want to give away all my secrets, now, do i? I still have to make money at this. On another note, if these bursts are supposed to be "caribbean bursts", can we please start spelling it "caribburst" and stop referring to them as "carries"?

Is that "Fujigen" as in "Fujigen Gakki"? That's the Japanese plant that manufactures the high-end Ibanez models.

Just get one of these, and clearcoat over it. I'm pretty sure this is how some early PRS guitars were signed, and how they continue to mark their "10 tops" and other extremely limited models on the backs of the headstocks.

Nice. Not too many exotic wood stores in Toronto.

I'm listening to "Thunderhead" right now, and it's really cool! Interesting fusion of styles with a great groove, and some really cool surprises. (Like that interesting Prince-ish break in the middle.) How does the rest of the disc compare? I may just pick it up!

I am by no means an expert, but i would probably stain it first, then use a black grain filler, then clear. Just make sure that the clearcoat, the filler and the stain are all compatible... you wouldn't want to be wiping off your stain and filler as you wipe on your poly.

I may be wrong, but i don't think Jim is actually building them himself. He's a top-notch jazz player and found the extended scale was perfect for his 7-string work, but playing dinner clubs with an RG 7421XL was a little odd. So he designed the Swan series to meet his needs, and he invested a lot of his own money to tool up for production, which i think he's partnered with somebody on. More info at http://www.jimsoloway.com

First of all, set the neck deeper into the body. Assuming you're going with a Fender-style heel (as opposed to an Ibanez All-Access type neck joint), make your fretboard longer than the neck, so it hangs over the body. Fender-style necks with 22 or more frets have fretboards that extend beyond the butt end of the neck. (see this page for more detail) With the fretboard extended past the end of the neck, you can then cut the fretboard on the angle you want without reducing the contact area of your neck heel in the pocket, thus allowing you to keep a strong neck joint.

On the "Add Reply" screen, over on the left there's a link for "BB Code Help"... that's full of helpful hints on how to use the code for the forum. To do a hyperlink on text or images, do this: [url=http://www.somesite.net]Type some text or place an image here.[/url] That will give you a result like this: Type some text or place an image here.

Very cool idea with the embedded pickup! The strings sure look close to the body... for a minute, i thought you had put a piezo pickup under the saddle. So judging by the photos, that pickup and your potentiometer are permanently sealed inside the guitar?

Every Epiphone Goth LP i've seen has an arched/carved top. If you have a flat-topped Goth LP, i'd love to see photos of it. Flat-top Les Pauls are always have Junior/Special/Melody Maker in their names. I don't recall the Gibson or Epiphone Goth models falling into this category. Maybe you're not using the term "veneer" correctly. Veneer is paper-thin. Take a piece of paper and try to glue it to conform to the arched top of a Les Paul, and you'll see that it only wants to bend one way. You can't get it to fit a compound-curved surface without cutting, folding, wrinkling, or severely deforming it in some way. Veneer will usually split and tear if you try and stress it too much. With a lot of steam and a vacuum table, you may be able to get a veneer to conform to a compound curve, but i don't think it's been very successfully done. If you're talking about a carved top, that's another story. A top has significant thickness where you can carve contours into it to achieve an arched shape.

I believe the JuJu finish is a black stain or matte finish with red grain filler. I've heard it's not a very durable finish. If you wanted to convert a Goth to a Voodoo, you'd have to plane or saw the top off and re-top it with Swamp Ash to get the same effect. No lol. Unless you enjoy having store staff staring at you like you're some kind of moron. (which i'm not saying you are... but that's the kind of look you'll get) It's probably polyurethane-based, like most finishes used these days. You could try emailing or phoning Gibson to see where they sourced them from, or if they custom-made (or custom-modified) parts in-house, and if they have replacements available. Unlikely. Veneering is next to impossible on compound-curved surfaces. Huh? Ebony fretboards are generally not finished. If you paint something on the fretboard, be prepared to have it wear off pretty quickly. If you want a skull on there, you could get a vinyl decal laser-cut, but again, not a permanent solution. The best way to go is to have it inlaid.

The "Duncan Designed" pickup is a good indicator that it's a lower-cost import model, and not a USA Jackson.

A little less dark around the edges, a little more open in the middle, and green/cream zebra pickups. http://www.lgmguitars.com/images/guitars/l...ducci_burst.jpg