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Grounding


patman

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It doesn't have to go to the back of the volume pot. Particularly if you've used foil to shield your guitar; going to the pot may cause ground loops.

They really just need to all end up at ground, which is the ground lug of your output jack. That's the final destination. A highly recommended way is to use "star grounding" which means that all your grounds go to a central spot OTHER than a volume lug (make sure you take that volume pot's bent lug away from the pot shell and put a wire on it, too!) such as a metal washer, and then one wire to the ground jack.

Or in other words, despite the myriad diagrams, the only real destination is the output lug, and the only real problem that can come of wiring up your grounds (other than making sure they eventually make it to the ground lug of your output jack!) is that the circuit will want to keep taking the path of least resistance to places OTHER than the output jack. (ie. a ground loop).

Greg

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  • 1 month later...

can I ground all the hardware on the output, and add a wire from the output to the bridge ???

No, ground all the electronics and hardware, including the bridge, to a central spot. Solder them all to a washer or a coin or O-tab (what the heck are those called again?) or something like that. Then go from this central spot to the ground lug of the output jack.

Greg

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Why are you painting a guitar that has hardware on it? You can definitely pull those studs. It's not like you have to worry about the top caving in, since you have that center block. At this point, my only apprehension about pulling the studs out would be my fear of messing up the finish, but only because the finish was put on with the studs installed. If the finish was put on, then the studs were installed, I wouldn't worry about damaging the clear at all. Have you actually gotten to the clear coating stage yet?

peace,

russ

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  • 2 weeks later...

hummmmm

Actually, there are exceptions...I don't think EMG's need it being active...and there is some trick I put into one of my guitars (not sure of the truth of it) but it is a resistor that will burn out if high voltages pass through it, disconnecting the ground in the event of a fatal shock incident...or so they say...

I got an email today about the sustainer...with this I found that I needed to lift the ground and hot on all unused pickups...so a switchable ground. Similar with a phase switch from a pickup...the two pickup wires are reversed (also the sustainers driver harmonic switch) so the hot becomes the ground. If you dont do the phase switching before the star grounding, you will short it out and get a kill switch...lol!!

Anyway...otherwise all is true, and you generally do need to ground the bridge and strings... pete

BTW...don't feel bad it is often forgotten and a common fault in noisy guitars...maybe a brocken or faulty connection hidden under the bridge studs for instance.

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I red some pages about grounding the bridge telling that its dangerous of electrical shocks, is it true ???

Grounding the bridge makes the guitar quieter - it does not really increase your risk of electrical shock much, since any voltage present at "ground" level will also be present on the pots, the input jack, the pickup covers and any other grounded metallic surface on the guitar. The only way to get a voltage on the ground of the guitar is to connect it or yourself to a piece of defective equipment. If your gear is safe, mis-wiring your guitar might make it noisy, but it cannot make it dangerous.
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