THIRSTYGUMS Posted February 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 (edited) Edited February 1, 2007 by THIRSTYGUMS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THIRSTYGUMS Posted February 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THIRSTYGUMS Posted February 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marksound Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 I know this thing has been nitpicked to death and I don't want to start all that up again, but just one thing (or two). If you're doing "beauty shots" why not replace the broken string? And for Pete's sake why not trim the string ends? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 Looking good dude! The green worked out much better than I had thought, and the binding looks good. There are only two small things I don't really like about it. I don't really like how the end of the fingerboard comes past the truss rod nut, but thats only personal preference. In this picture whats up with the finish? It looks like you didn't level sand enough before starting the buffing and there are a few big problems in the finish. Do you plan to take these out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 In this picture whats up with the finish? It looks like you didn't level sand enough before starting the buffing and there are a few big problems in the finish. Do you plan to take these out? If this is two pack, as previously suggested, then those finish blemishes will never come out with just buffing. It will need to be rubbed back level, and more coats put on. (Not having a go, im trying to help) Now, if i may ask a few questions.... Did you build that bridge yourself? I noticed you have stamped it with your logo, so i was curious if that meant it was your handiwork or not. (Not having a go, im just asking) How come you didnt mitre the binding at the bottom of the fretboard? (Not having a go, im just asking) In the second last pic, it appears as though the fretboard is at a different height on the bass side (lower), compared with the treble side (higher). Was that intentional?? (Not having a go, im just asking) I can see the finish is moving under the tuners. Thats because each coat was put on too thick (and wasnt atomised properly when it left the gun), and they layered up trapping solvents and will never dry out. Theres a tip for you for next time. (Not having a go, im trying to help) PS Intonation is out on the 1st wound string (D?). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THIRSTYGUMS Posted February 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 In this picture whats up with the finish? It looks like you didn't level sand enough before starting the buffing and there are a few big problems in the finish. Do you plan to take these out? If this is two pack, as previously suggested, then those finish blemishes will never come out with just buffing. It will need to be rubbed back level, and more coats put on. (Not having a go, im trying to help) Now, if i may ask a few questions.... Did you build that bridge yourself? I noticed you have stamped it with your logo, so i was curious if that meant it was your handiwork or not. (Not having a go, im just asking) How come you didnt mitre the binding at the bottom of the fretboard? (Not having a go, im just asking) In the second last pic, it appears as though the fretboard is at a different height on the bass side (lower), compared with the treble side (higher). Was that intentional?? (Not having a go, im just asking) I can see the finish is moving under the tuners. Thats because each coat was put on too thick (and wasnt atomised properly when it left the gun), and they layered up trapping solvents and will never dry out. Theres a tip for you for next time. (Not having a go, im trying to help) PS Intonation is out on the 1st wound string (D?). hello, Bridge was built by E.T.S guitar hardware in germany, its brass finishedin black powder. I dont understand what mitred binding is? But the shape and colour are intentional. Although the photo makes it loo much more exaggerated than in real life, Yes, i radiused the fretboard with a slight bias, a litlle give in the bass side as he string is so much bigger than on the treble side. the finish went like that because it hadnt quite cured when i first asembled the guitar, turned out to need another day curing time, not nearly as noticeable as in the photos. The finish was done by a friend who runs an auto body shop, it was done using state of the art spraying equipment (digital spray-guns, collapsing paint chamber e.t.c) and by highly trained profesional people. Any blemishes or indents were the product of my spraying a rough poor quality finish on before taking it to them and after they had sprayed i insisted on taking it and stringing up, all faults you can see are the product of my rashness to get the guitar completed and had nothing to do with them. the intonation is fine?? i tested it with an electronic tuner, its perfect all the way up theneck??? ok, rock on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GodBlessTexas Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 I dont understand what mitred binding is? But the shape and colour are intentional. A 90 degree meeting of two pieces with a 45 degree cut on each piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THIRSTYGUMS Posted February 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 I dont understand what mitred binding is? But the shape and colour are intentional. A 90 degree meeting of two pieces with a 45 degree cut on each piece. didnt even think of it. I think it looks fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 (edited) I dont understand what mitred binding is? But the shape and colour are intentional. A 90 degree meeting of two pieces with a 45 degree cut on each piece. Mitering the binding eliminates the exposed end grain, and has a snappy look. Edit; was typing while you posted the last message. P.S. That headstock looks nice. Edited February 1, 2007 by fryovanni Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manquesa Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 Bridge was built by E.T.S guitar hardware in germany, its brass finishedin black powder. So did you apply your logo on the bridge yourself or did ETS put it on there for you. If you did it, then how, with paint or what? I'm asking because i've been looking at their products recently and have been considering purchasing from them for my own projects. Anyway, your guitar has turned out pretty good. I like it, the only suggestion i'd make is to put a pickup bezel on there to coverup that pickup cavity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 The finish was done by a friend who runs an auto body shop, it was done using state of the art spraying equipment (digital spray-guns, collapsing paint chamber e.t.c) and by highly trained profesional people. Just a note on that. Although i dont doubt they can spray a mean automotive paint job, im yet to meet a spray painter who can transfer his skills to wood based products. Its a totally different ballgame, because the wood tries to 'breathe' as its curing, and is also 'softer' than a piece of metal. The wood can also suck solvents in, then try and push them back out, which does effect how the paint dries. Because of all the small areas on a guitar (inner horns, etc), you tend to get more overspray all over, which is counter acted with a quick mist of more paint over the entire body, which adds too much film thickness, and paint that will now not cure properly. Its a slippery slope! Most car panels dont have this problem, so its not something they ever deal with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THIRSTYGUMS Posted February 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 The finish was done by a friend who runs an auto body shop, it was done using state of the art spraying equipment (digital spray-guns, collapsing paint chamber e.t.c) and by highly trained profesional people. Just a note on that. Although i dont doubt they can spray a mean automotive paint job, im yet to meet a spray painter who can transfer his skills to wood based products. Its a totally different ballgame, because the wood tries to 'breathe' as its curing, and is also 'softer' than a piece of metal. The wood can also suck solvents in, then try and push them back out, which does effect how the paint dries. Because of all the small areas on a guitar (inner horns, etc), you tend to get more overspray all over, which is counter acted with a quick mist of more paint over the entire body, which adds too much film thickness, and paint that will now not cure properly. Its a slippery slope! Most car panels dont have this problem, so its not something they ever deal with. , Yes i have heard of such issues with varnishing wood, though this finish was applied on top of 6 or so (poorly done by me) coats of polyurethane varnish which cured for a fortnight, the sprayers tested a piece of scrap i had also prepared with the green and poly and found no chemical reaction between the two paints. The finish on the guitar now has cured and is as hard as a rock. shame i was too impatient and screwed in the tuners too early. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted February 2, 2007 Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 Gotta schedule and plan things out like that, man. If the finish turns out to be a turd, then you gotta be willing to put in the time to strip it and redo it right. If your "trained professionals with digital spray guns" didn't know enough to tell you that the new finish wasn't going to hide a bad old finish underneath it, you need to figure out another way to finish the guitar. IMHO, the finish makes or breaks the guitar. If it doesn't look better than a finish coming out of the Cort or Samick factories in Asia, then it's not worth displaying. This is one I'd strip down and redo. If you're client is fine with it and doesn't care 'cause he's going to burn it up with cigs EVH-style, that's one thing, but if your rep's on the line, I'd take the time to redo it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted February 2, 2007 Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 The finish on the guitar now has cured and is as hard as a rock. shame i was too impatient and screwed in the tuners too early. Two pack should, with all the resources of the panel shop you used, be dry enough to buff in 24 hours... or less. If the finish is moving then it was laid on too thick, and will NEVER cure properly. Sure, it will be good enough, but no where near perfect. Took me many guitars to suss out all the little things i had to know when spraying two pack over wood, and i had extensive spraying experience prior to getting into this game. Two pack is a very very finicky product, and ive stumped a lot of so called 'experts' (eg: actual paint company tech support guys) with questions and problems (becuase ultimately its designed for metal coverage, not wood). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THIRSTYGUMS Posted February 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 i think the finish is absolutely beautiful, my man conner is more than happy. This ones staying put and its time to move on to the next! yeeeoooo Cheers for all the positives guys, im outta here for now! Goodluck and godspeed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted February 2, 2007 Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 [...]and ive stumped a lot of so called 'experts' (eg: actual paint company tech support guys) with questions and problems (becuase ultimately its designed for metal coverage, not wood). meh, that's not hard to do. My school's machine shop is finally getting some modern cnc equiptment(had one cnc mill and about 5 tool room mills...getting about 5 5axis mills). Anyhow, one of the cnc company's techs came to show us the line of products and a friend and myself nearly made the guy cry with the detailed questions we were asking. I guess sometimes it's fun to see a "pro" sweat. call me a sadist. Honestly, my only big hang up on this build is the slotted binding. I know you said it wasn't "binding" earlier, but it seems apparentthat it is binding of some variety, since the body and headstock have the same motif going on. That's asside from the point though. Were you to go with such thick binding and faux-binding again, I would do it in two layers on the neck. First bind the fretboard with a layer half the thickness of the final thickness. Then slot the board. Then put the other half of the thickness of binding on. That way you'll get clean, covered fret ends without worrying about 1/4" of tangless fret to glue down on each side of the board. peace, russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTU 7's. Posted February 16, 2007 Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 ****! Jamie, that guitar it's hot! Congratulations! BTW i love the color+the black hardware, it's wonderfull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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