Snork Posted November 25, 2003 Report Share Posted November 25, 2003 Ok. I want to build a guitar. All i have is sand paper a dremel hand saw and a drill. Can i do it? and how am i supposed to get the contouring exactly right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 25, 2003 Report Share Posted November 25, 2003 if all you have is sandpaper i HIGHLY suggest a softer body wood than bubinga.have you ever tried to sand bubinga? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snork Posted November 25, 2003 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2003 nope but i have a large amount of time. thanx again wes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 25, 2003 Report Share Posted November 25, 2003 i have been building a maple guitar for the last couple of months and it is really tough to hand sand.i suggest getting some 40 grit or so belt sandpaper and cutting it into useable pieces...coen suggested this to me and it has been most helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazyderek Posted November 25, 2003 Report Share Posted November 25, 2003 where did bubinga come from?? and ya it's doo-able but that's alot of sand paper... and alot of nights with soar arms & hands. i'd opt for a body with no carving like a tele or wolfgang/axis. Wes u talking about the aliminium oxide paper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Bell Posted November 25, 2003 Report Share Posted November 25, 2003 If you're doing a lot of sanding a good face mask is pretty essential too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted November 25, 2003 Report Share Posted November 25, 2003 I use round, half round and rectangular rasps. A small block plane, a spokeshave. 80, 180, 220 and 400 grit sandpaper (dry sanding). Finer grits 600 up to 1500 or 2000 if you want (for wetsanding finish coats). I cut my initial neck angles (top and both sides) with a Skilsaw, nyuknyuk, and borrowed the use of a big belt sander to plane them flat. Rasps, plane and spokeshave for the initial shaping of curves, then sand til it feels nice....oooooooh yeah! Jigsaw is handy for cutting curved body shapes. If you build the body by sandwich glueing 3/4" plank together then you can jigsaw cavities beforehand. Definitely need a drill and a large assortment of bits. Even some oddballs. Grover tuners required 25/64" drillbit which isn't part of the average set. Had to buy it separate. Router makes some of the hardest areas quick and dirty...and even. Roundover bit is nice for body edge, finish doesn't stay long on sharp 90 degree edges, elsewise use binding. Plunge bits for cavities. But Forstner bit on a regular drill is good for hogging out wood, just not as purty. Clamps, clamps and more clamps. all kinds, types and shapes come in handy. I personally like the "Quick grip" style with the rubber pads on the gripping surfaces. I use yellow carpenter's glue, tacks good, dries ok and doesn't creep too badly. I spilt a whole bottle of that crap on my table which then dripped onto the carpet, thankfully its water soluble. Sure you can build a guitar with what you got. Sandpaper works faster on a dual action sander tho. But I would definitely get a set of rasps, they are relatively cheap and are really easy to use. Best shaping tool I ever used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 25, 2003 Report Share Posted November 25, 2003 Wes u talking about the aliminium oxide paper? it's what they sell in loops for belt sanders.it is tougher and lasts longer than regular hand sandpaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DannoG Posted November 25, 2003 Report Share Posted November 25, 2003 The best sandpaper for durability I ever got was from a rental shop where they sold sheets/belts for use with their hardwood floor sanders. I still have some after a very long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveMan Posted December 4, 2003 Report Share Posted December 4, 2003 I use sanding blocks, planes, spokeshaves, and scrapers. A cabinet scraper is very cheap, and can be very effective. It will not remove material as fast as a plane or drawknife, but it offers a lot of control, and leaves a nice finish. I would reccomend getting a rectangular one, and a curved one. They take a bit of practice to use the first time. (If you can, get somebody to show you how to use it) but once you get going, they are fairly easy. It's one of my favorite tools, once I rough out the shape with a saw, plane or drawknife. Good Luck, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted December 5, 2003 Report Share Posted December 5, 2003 Scrapers kick arse. They take some getting used to, but they are very versatile and can be made out of scrap steel (raid the old kitchen knives in junk shops) to any curve you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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