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sam_c

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About sam_c

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    uk - midlands
  1. a ridiculous suggestion, but maybe it would look cool if you neaten up the gouge marks and replicate them on the lower horn slightly off-set? then possibly make 2 long thin sound holes in the same shape, instead of the traditional F hole designs?
  2. You could try APEM Military / Avionics spec toggle switches? http://www.apem.co.uk/toggles.html they probably wont sell in small quants but you may be able to blag a free sample of a 2pole and 3pole switch in matt black
  3. How about adding a tiny onboard amp and putting a small speaker under the top near the f hole? You have the perfect cavity for fitting one now anyway
  4. Here is a link to Stephen Davies' site, the neck joint appears on most of his guitars...and the patent has expired on this now afaik. I know washburn were trying to protect it not too long ago, not sure how successful they were. I think they wanted to ditch the term Stephens Extended Cutaway and go with 'shark-fin' neck joint or something like that. http://www.seanet.com/~jsd/
  5. Hi, yeah I own a few N4's. The radius of the extended cutaway is 4" I built a little pivoting circle cutting jig for my router to make some templates. I have also drawn up a rough layout of an N4 in CAD. It is a simple neck joint really. The 'shelf' for the neck fillet to sit on is 1" wide I think, the depth depends on the model. You do need a wide neck blank to make a 1pc neck for that joint, but I have seen people join a wider peice at that location before with no problems. And if you cut 2 blanks end to end it would be less wasteful. here is a thread on some N4's I put together using old factory parts. they show the body routing and the jig I built quite well. http://simnettguitars.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1562.15 and here is my walnut/wenge N4, Im only posting a picture cos its my favourite guitar...ever
  6. By the way, if you are using ACAD and drawing bodies using splines....you can convert them to 2d polylines using the 'flatten' command. I know splines look great and are easy to tweak for curves etc, but the ability to offset and stuff is also important. ACAD for me, just because I am sat on it for hours everyday at work.
  7. good stuff! Im not sure what mags I prefer as ive never really thought about it. The insides of a pickup make sense to me in as much as how they work...but the tonal differences of the components is something I have no idea about. On a very basic level, i guess I prefer the alnico stuff based on the pickups I have tried and liked. good thread as always, Ive always liked the less is more approach when it comes to guitars and your builds do that in a very smart way.
  8. What is the wiring scheme on this one? are you gonna add a 3w toggle or use the push/pull pot to switch between neck/bridge? also, is that the finished nut? as the thinnest treble string slot looks wide in the pics...cant tell if its a trick of the camera though. Got to say I agree on the looks of the top for this one, the walnut looks great.
  9. I love reverse headstocks. 6 inline tuners on top is more awkward I find, its a very un-natural hand position for tuning. Reverse strat variant headstock is more ergonomic I think. Washburn N series guitars look great with them IMO.
  10. I say go with a pickgaurd, but maybe just a single white ply? Glad you are building again, I enjoy reading your threads!
  11. go with the bookmatched set IMO.
  12. I will post my sketch tomorrow when Im at work. You can check my measurements against your design to see if I have used the correct ones. I dont know why, but 4 degrees seems steep to me.
  13. ive sketched it out quickly in CAD, but Im not 100% sure Ive got your required measurements in the right place. Plus, Ive assumed fret wire height to be 1.4mm and used a metric scale length of 623.875mm. so this is based on a 16mm high bridge (in its lowest adjusted setting, with strings touching the top of the frets) edit: Im coming up with an angle of approx 1.865 degs.
  14. I am not being ironic. My point was that, although this formula may be correct and very helpful, at some point the dimensions that are calculated need to be transferred to the materials being cut. So the idea that maths is more accurate than a pencil line becomes irrelevant. Personally, I like to draw things out in CAD. I know other people do things different ways and people find ways of working that suit them individually. I do not know if your formula works, I would never use it even if it did, but that is just my opinion and my preference for the way I work. I would rather 'see' how parts fit together than figure out numbers that, theoretically, make it all work I am not being critical of you posting ideas and calculations, it would be a sad day if people stop doing that
  15. wow, if you are that worried about holding a pencil, I dread to think how much you worry about holding a router! I dont get it, surely you guys are drawing onto the wood before you are cutting it? or at least drawing onto templates? So why all the fuss about inaccuracy when drawing a scale plan?
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