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Bukoffsky

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Everything posted by Bukoffsky

  1. Thanks Brian, this helps a lot. I guess you would say that non perpendicular axis would significantly alter the neck geometry. I like the fulcrum ridge idea a lot. Seems logical.
  2. yes, i guess the only way to find out is to try it out. However, microtilt is actually nothing but a fancy way of shimming. I guess someone had to try this at some point in history.
  3. Contoured neck heel as on Music Man Silhouette, sans the plate (and the fifth bolt). Micro tilt as in fender micro tilt, four bolts version. I'm thinking about issues that could arise with combination of the two. Will the non perpendicular placement of the two front bolts completely mess up the fretboard - strings geometry? Any thoughts?
  4. had trouble deciding between mattharris and shad... however, twiggy got it this time. Cheers!
  5. Very nice guitar. Make some better pics for the GOTM,
  6. Perhaps, but I still prefer "awesome build DUDE!" to +1 Like. Words do say much more.
  7. I would bet that would be tool wear. Tonewood is a term coined during late eighties. hehe, futile effort.
  8. I highly recommend carving the back, It makes the guitar extremely comfortable. Use an angle grinder, and enjoy the ride. On the other hand, if you've chambered the body, that limits your options. You can check out how I did it here, or visit crimson guitars, there are videos of back carving...
  9. Bukoffsky Guitars NUTCRACKER A take on p90 jazz/blues guitar. Intended for wide range of guitarwork, from jazz rhythm comping to blues and rock soloing. Handwound pickups. Dummy Coil. Carved Walnut top Obeche body Ash neck Indian Rosewood Fingerboard Fender Scale Gotoh Tuners Gotoh TOM and Stoptail Handwound p90 pickups Dummy coil (humbucking) Three way switch, 80% coil tap Varitone switch >>>> More pics and VIDEO >>>>>More pics and VIDEO .
  10. Very cool design. Even the inlay, although I would prefer it in one color.
  11. Even though I am not so fond of flamed tops, Redbird makes it for me... I guess that all the brass/steel - Art Deco hardware finally justified the "jewelry box" look of things made of highly figured wood. Tonewood porn most of the time goes TOO far for my taste. Hats down for choosing THAT bridge to complement all the hardware. Otherwise I hate how it looks. And also a hint> I've only decided to vote for Red after a jump to full top view. Details are nice, but the whole guitar view is better. Also Loved Phantom Mando V for originality.
  12. anyway, the guitar looks fantastic... good work!
  13. This is going to be a sweet guitar. I just love the look of walnut. Lacquer or oil?
  14. I love the top, AND the fingerboard. However, they do not "click" together for me. This top asks for a stripped down ebony FB with only the side dots. I would pair inlayed fingerboard with a single color body and let it shine. Yes, I would split this into two different builds.
  15. THANKS to everyone that voted for me, and congrats to fellow winner... I find the fact that both guitars used beech in construction rather interesting.
  16. OK, sorry, let me correct myself... IF you have a thin (guitar) body this is a bad idea.
  17. As curtisa said, only take a piece of wood 1 mm thicker than the length of an insert. Works like a charm. No rip whatsoever. actually there's a thread about this> here. Just avoid the first video. BAD idea
  18. Wicked! I guess that the tactile feeling is quite unique when playing it...
  19. Thanks Hitone, I answered your question on my profile page, because I could not send you a PM. I'm a newbie around here, so... It was a wish of the owner to include this into the build. I decided that there was not space for it on the front. However, the guy whose sig is on the front LOVES it.
  20. I just read in another topic that you have ID background. Knew there was a reason why I thought we think alike when I saw this thread. cheers, congrats on the kid as well!
  21. Exactly the reason for my next build to be a singlecut.
  22. Super Smooth Oil Finish This is the approach I have been using. Do not be afraid to do some extra sanding after first or second coat. Any mistakes that you left behind are then visible and easy to repair. And BEFORE waxing, I buff the surface using Armstrong method.
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