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Routing Veneer


sscovill
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Yes.^

It's ALL about proper gluing.

If you missed -any- spots around the edges with your glue, you can count on those areas chipping off when you run the router around it, there's nothing holding them down anyway except the surrounding glue.

If it's glued properly, you shouldn't have any problems with a good sharp router bit.

Go back and take a -close- look at all your edges, make sure all looks OK. If not, apply a little more glue to any suspect areas.

Did you water down the glue first?

With aliphatic glue (yellow) you can water the glue down to a consistency of thick cream, which allows it to seep into the pores a bit better overall.

I don't always do that, but sometimes do.

Veneer trick. :D

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The only way I got over the wrinkles, humps, bumps, and other veneer weirdo things was to start using a HARD FLAT glue board, like 1/2" Maple board or something similar.

Plywood won't work, Basswood won't work, Pine is doubtful. It has to be -hard-, like Maple, Bubinga, Myrtle, Walnut, Paduak, Wenge, Oak, Rosewood, ...-that- kind of wood.

You glue veneer down and use a glue board like that with the proper clamps, ain't nuthin gonna happen but nice, perfect, pancake flat veneers.

My experience. :D

Contact cement seems like it would be -awfully- messy.

Titebond + proper glue amount (very important w/ veneers) + hard glue board + wax paper = very nice veneer jobs. B)

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naw, not messy at all, and works really fast, I really liked the fact that you don't get any wrinkles and weird things, contact cement does not have water in its composition, i asked some carpenters and that's what they told me to use, but i dunno if there's anything wrong with it, so far so good

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