PuK Posted November 1, 2004 Report Share Posted November 1, 2004 ok. I've been doing lots of reading etc but i cant seem to find the answer to a really stupid (and probobly inconsequential) question. Does the fingerboard have to be any required depth? i.e 5mm personally i wouldn't think so but i want to make sure before i do anything else. thanks for any help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted November 1, 2004 Report Share Posted November 1, 2004 Not really but remember your going to need to slot it so you don't want it to thin. Most blanks I think start out at 3/8" thick these days 9.525 mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PuK Posted November 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2004 Hrm. ok. the nut i bought is already slotted though and at the moment there is about 3mm clearance from the top of fret board to the top of the nut. Note: the fret board is 5mm thick. Like i said... i wouldn't think that this would matter... but i would like to take the width of the fret board down another .5mm just to be safe... what do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 1, 2004 Report Share Posted November 1, 2004 i go anywhere from 3/16" to 1/4" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joej Posted November 1, 2004 Report Share Posted November 1, 2004 To me, it seems that it'd be easier to just to make a new nut at the right height (as opposed to thinning down the fretboard). But thats based on my "I'd screw up thicknessing a fretboard vs. a doing a nut" experience -- joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 1, 2004 Report Share Posted November 1, 2004 you can easily shim the nut as well with a piece of veneer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted November 2, 2004 Report Share Posted November 2, 2004 I usually start with 1/4" blank then while I'm radiusing/prepping the neck, it thins out quite a bit. I'd definitly shim the nut instead of having to thin the fretboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtis P Posted November 2, 2004 Report Share Posted November 2, 2004 The one i made was 1/4 inch thick.... I gont no complaints on how it functioned and all, it was actually pretty sweet fingerboard Curtis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PuK Posted November 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2004 cool. thanks for all your help...i will see what happens... had not thought of the shims ^^;; just a side note... im not really planning on cambering the fretboard... i might a little but not a huge amount... just a personal preference thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank falbo Posted November 2, 2004 Report Share Posted November 2, 2004 Remember if you're using a double truss rod (either double action or one-way) it works by applying upward pressure to the middle of the fretboard, and downward pressure at each end. A fretboard that's too thin will be prone to cracking under truss rod pressure. A traditional rod/filler strip alleviates pressure against the fretboard so even a thin vintage Fender "veneer-style" fretboard is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted November 2, 2004 Report Share Posted November 2, 2004 Try something like a 19" radius or so. I used a compound 12"-17" radius on my tele, and I like it. I have a 24" radius block, but it barely removes anything on the edges. Now a question (not meant to hijack). I made the high (gbe) side of my board slightly thicker than the low (EAD) side, probably 1/16" difference, so that the high strings will be closer to the board (the bridge doesn't adjust individual string height). Has anyone else tried this before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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