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My Guitar, As Shameful As It Is.


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Hey what do think of this one not sure if it what you want for the headstock but there's not alot of wood there for you to work with

EDIT:>sorry I missed that last post but I just tryed doing a headstok like doyles with the wood that you have to work with, but It just did not look right to me I don't think you should do a flat out copy of doyles headstock but that's just me B)

good luck.

!!METAL MATT!! :D

Edited by !!METAL MATT!!
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i hear what your saying matt. i'll keep that picture though :D its pretty cool.

im undecided about it. i drew up a paper version of a straight triangle headstock a bit like doyles, and i think it looks ok. its a bit small, but ok.

its pictured on page two of my site.

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my bridge is almost identical to that, not as groved round the edges and i certainly didnt think it was "finest non-tremolo solidbody guitar bridge available" i got it cheap off ebay!!

"This bridge is designed for through-the-body string mounting" ummm , does that mean im screwed then? i thought the little bobble on the end of the string sat in saddle, i though thats what "toploading" was? i certainly dont want my guitar to become a shecter.... where i live 'a schecter' is a slang term for a poo.

*gulp* i think my innexperience is showing....

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i have played guitars with ferrules but ive never had to change a string on one. i can only guess at how long it takes... do you need to take the back panel off first?

i style myself completely on doyles vicious downstroke and have paid the price! during a gig i need to change strings fast! so this type of thing is no good to me. if i cant get the string bobble to sit in the saddles... then im looking at a new bridge.

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hey deadmike I,ve been working with string-thru bridge's since I started and It does not take long to change strings I think it's A hole lot faster then any trem style bridge but Iam not sure what you mean by [do you need to take the back panel off first?]

!!METAL MATT!! :D

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i thought they had to be threaded through the back of the guitar? the holes being conceled by the same back panel that hides all the wires and crap?

i take it by your bewilderment that i have no idea what im talking about??

im going to fiddle with the bridge tonight, muck around with some old strings.

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bridgehelp.jpg

I hope this will help you!!, this is how your string-thru bridge should work.

EDIT:>hey mike this guy is useing the same bridge you are check out his post under [Guitar, Mark 1]

!!METAL MATT!! :D

Edited by !!METAL MATT!!
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thanks for the diagram matt. im completely clued up now. i had a muck around with it and strings will sit in the saddles, i not sure thats a great idea, but its cheaper than a new bridge and the idea of cutting holes in my guitar... er... :D

this guitar is starting to sound completely makeshift, it'll be duck tape next...

attempted some sandpapering today. that lasted about 2 minutes. its a thankless task that i might just do a little of everytime i work on it. i even made a sandstick.. but that didnt help.

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no pictures on this update yet.

ive been racking my brains trying to get clued up about neck depths and bridge heights.

after drawing it all out a few times, laying it all out and using long straight sticks to determine the neck pocket depth i just went ahead and tried a depth of 5/8, the recommended fender depth.

well that came nowhere near deep enough and after a good 20 minutes of chiseling the edges incredibly flat, im a bit dissapointed yet triumphant in my damning of that "standard depth".

tomorrow if i have time i'll cut a full 20mm down and try lining it up again.

most of my drawings came out at 20mm depth but i wanted to at least try the 5/8 that was in all the books and websites to see if i was going wrong. hopefully by tomorrow i'll be shopping for a back plate.

im scavaging around my tool boxes and sheds looking for any metal i could use as a plate rather than buy one. has anyone else ever used something alternative?

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Nice work, I like this. I hope you get it to work right.

I was gonna suggest you should consider one of the neck kits from a SAGA kit. It has a nice big paddle head so you can cut whatever headstock design you like.

Warmoth makes some great Paddle heads too. I know you wanted to do this on the cheap, but I think a blank paddle head would make the Headstock task much easier. Worth the amount of money if you ask me. It needs the Triangle headstock. The Encore as it just dont look right to me. IMHO. But to get it playable, would work.

Best of Luck to you.

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thanks jeremy, i looked at the paddle headstocks as a serious option, but i couldnt find one for less than $150 before P&P, the encore neck was £15 !

anything i was going to use was getting cut into a triangle so it really didnt matter what it was.

im putting all my efforts into the bridge neck just now. as everyone says, "thats what makes a guitar".

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looking beter man are you going to fill in the screw holes on the neck or just leave them alone??

!!METAL MATT!! :D

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not sure matt, ive got my plate that my dad made, its pretty thick but its solid. it doesnt have screwholes in it yet so my options are still open.

its all been ignored over the last week or so, i had a quick look at how i could fill the holes with dowles and re-use the same area of the neck, but im not sure how strong that would be. need to read up a little more before i dicide what to do.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey mike have you mounted the bridge yet if not why not just mount the neck further back in to the body by redoing the neck pockit?

!!METAL MATT! :D

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ive been using double sided sticky tape whenever ive been measuring it up and looking at positions for the bridge, i had indeed considered just moving the whole thing down an inch or two.

the overall damage that moving the neck down was too great. the tips of the wings would end up really far along the neck making it difficult to play. also the bridge just really looks better where doyle has his and i want to replicate that.

this idea of using a block might not work, but it wont hurt to try. if it fails i can then use the your idea of moving it down afterwards. but im sure id need to trim those wings!

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update on filling in the tuning peg holes

http://deadmike.150m.com/page_5.htm

these updates seem very boring and insignificant, but i suppose there all steps towards to goal.

should have another update tomorrow on the cut headstock.

Edited by deadmike
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im in carnoustie just north of dundee. blimey youve had it rough up there mate!

yeah im hoping the final coat of black paint will hide all the blemishes and mistakes, if not its a lesson learnt and i can improve on it next time. and for someone who knew NOTHING about guitars, other than they made a noise, i reckon ive done ok.

better get that headstock finished!

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