Jump to content

How can I tell a wood is good for a solid body?


Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I live in Australia and I'm finding it really hard to get some Alder wood. In fact I'm having difficulty finding any of the recommended guitar woods. Also, I don't want to import wood from overseas because I don't want customs taking it off me :-/

The types of wood I can get my hands on have weird names: blackbutt, victorian ash, karri, jarrah, meranti etc. (I have heard meranti is used in acoustic guitars).

Is there any way I can tell whether these woods have good tone, apart from actually building a guitar with them and seeing? Does tone have to do with weight, colour, density or anything like that?

Or maybe someone has had first hand experience with these woods and can tell me?

Many thanks

Michael

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i think the main thing is stability.look up the properties of your wood types on the net and see if they glue well,are stable,non oily,and are non corrosive to metals.(camphor is corrosive).all woods will have a unique tone but most will be listenable.some guitars are made out of plywood after allby the way ash is used in guitars all the time.great tone.i don't know what victorian ash is but it is probably similar and useable

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also keep in mind that alder,mahogany,basswood,and all those are not necessarily the best woods,but they are plentiful,cheap,and work well which is why they are so commonly used.many guitar makers use other woods such as sycamore,korina,purpleheart,bocote,zirocote,cherry,lacewood,etc.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i looked up those woods for you and most do not seem to be recomended for guitars.....getting alder is tough for americans to get right now, so i wouldnt bother with thinking about that....but you are forgetting one of the best tonewoods that is local to you; lacewood......youll also be able to get some woods that are tough for us to get like limba......try locating a hard wood specialist in your town.....and get some ideas from them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow thanks for all the advice!! It's a lot to take in all at once :D

westheman,

Good point about the big companies using plentiful woods... it's kinda made me WANT to stay away from alder now B)

thethirdeye,

I'm in Sydney... would you believe I can't find any luthiers that do more than standard guitar repairs? :D There is seriously a market for custom electrics in Australia.. if I had a workshop (and skill) I'd quit work and uni and do this full time :D

john,

thanks for the info on Jarrah, that seems to be the wood I can most easily get my hands on so I'll probably give it a shot

vh-guitarstore.com

Ah yes i've heard about Lacewood; good idea maybe I'll make 2 bodies (1 jarrah and 1 lacewood) and let you know which tone i prefer

One things for sure though, I'm steering clear from the mainstream woods now. I've actually read that some of these woods (particularly mahogany) aren't even going to be around for much longer..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

hi ther check out wren timbers they usally have some nice tonewood depends what tone ya after but queensland maple is a popular choice for aussies and it has a real low end tone like mahogony and fairly cheap,i got a belman,it is all q maple and i couldnt be more happy with the tone cheers azy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey I have some information about Australian timbers:
First of all you said you had access to victorian ash (tasmanian oak), this is one of the best Australian tonewoods there are. If you have read the current issue of Australian guitar (with John butler on the front) You will notice in the review ,section there is a guitar made by jim dyson called the jim dyson pro and standard, it is made completly out of victorian ash except (and this surprised me) the fretboard which is made out of perspex.
This guitar costs $950 so i doubt they would go to the trouble of building such an expensive guitar out of a so-so tonewood.
Also if you read the feed back some one else had the exact same problem and they replied with a detailed response. I suggest you buy this magazine, it sugests you try Gilet guitars of sydney.
Also there are a few other known Australian tonewoods such as:
Bunya
Tasmanian blackwood
Queensland maple
mulga
cooktown ironwood
And i would have to recommend Jarrah for fretboards it is one of the best woods for it.
Also you research Maton guitars in Australia they make there guitars from "alternate" Australian timbers.
Anyway good luck and i hope that long post was at least a little bit helpful.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey, I think I might have a score on my hands. :D I'm always on the lookout for freebies. I am just finishing up a painting job at a house that will be going up for sale. The owner is refurbishing interior and exterior as well as doing some yardwork. I spotted a very straight log laying on the ground amongst some cut branches. The wood was extremely dense, the log weighed a ton (4'X10" dia)! The owner said it was from a [url="http://www.westwindhardwood.com/hard_h.html#holly"]holly[/url] tree they cut down a while back. I have some friends who can cut it into sections (quartersaw) for neckwood, then I'll lay it somewhere and forget about it for a few years. :D

Edited by Southpa
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Southpa, make sure you get the scoop on preventing blue stain(fungus)
on freshly sliced holly. Best time to cut it is in the dead of winter when it's too cold to grow. There is something you can put on the sliced wood to prevent it but I don't remember what it was. someting like baking soda. Check out th lumber milling sites for info. By theway it blue stains very easily, I know cause I have some! :o(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got the log home, problem is my friend's bandsaw is too small to "render" this chunk of wood down. After a few phone calls I find this might be a little bit of trouble to get done. First off, because the log came from a residential area, a lot of the "sawers" I talked to don't want to ruin their blades on potential nails. So I'll have to get it scanned with a metal detector first and then get some form of written affirmation that it does not contain any foreign objects.

I still want to get this log quartersawn tho. I calculated the density of the wood (105 lbs, 10" dia. and 33" long), it works out to 1030 kg/cubic metre. Eastern hardrock maple (A. saccharum) is around 750. This could make some awesome neck wood. I figure I might get 4 good quartersawn 2X4's. :D

Edited by Southpa
Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote]I calculated the density of the wood (105 lbs, 10" dia. and 33" long), it works out to 1030 kg/cubic metre. Eastern hardrock maple (A. saccharum) is around 750.[/quote]

Southpa, the 750kg/cuM for maple is based on dry wood. Holly, when completely dry is around the same weight as hard maple. Still pretty good, though. You are right about having it quartersawn. You will have a much better chance of getting it to dry straight that way. And for the blue stain mentioned earlier, constant airflow is the key. Keep all sides exposed to air, except the ends, seal them with wax or latex paint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...