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How Would I Go About Tung Oiling The Neck


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Usually, MIA Fenders have "satin" finish on the back of the neck, and they feel pretty fast. At least my '96 American Strat feels very fast with the satin finish. I think yours have high gloss if your hand is sticking on to it.

And another thing is that all Fenders has hard maple necks which are not very durable if they are only tung oiled. Especially for the humidity and seasonal changes. If I'm correct, a hard finish is highly required on maple necks.

I'd only do a little sanding with very very fine papers or a steel wool to glossy surface. Then it will be like a satin finish. I havent tried that myself before but I have a guitar with satin finished neck and a one with high gloss. Glossy one is very sticky but the satin is very smooth. Very different to each other.

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If it has already been finished, you'll have to sand through the finish and the wood that has been penetrated by the finish before the tung oil can actually soak into the wood. Otherwise, it just sits on top, and that won't help.

For "slick" finishes, I use 0000 steel wool, followed by automotive rubbing compound applied with a rag... the stuff you use to buff out the paint on a car. Some people will recommend wet-sanding with 600-1200 grit paper; I haven't noticed a difference on perfectly smooth surfaces, and paper wrapped on a block is probably the best for flat surfaces. However, if there are some minor imperfections, or minor surface changes (dips, contours, etc.) I think the steel wool and the rag follows the form better than paper.

Add the usual disclaimer... this is just my opinion, based only on my experienece.

D~s

Edited by Dugz Ink
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I don't know what steel wool really is. I'm from Turkey and I don't know what it is in Turkish. But there are some "wool like" sanders here, mostly with green color... but they don't look like steel..:D

I think it will scratch a little, or the sanded surface will appear obviously near the glossy areas. Well.. anything will scratch it a bit and that is the idea.. if you want to make it slippery unlike a high-gloss finish. But like Dugz Ink said, you need to apply buffing compounds with rag after you sand it. That will smooth the finish very well. I'm planning to use "silicon-free" TurtleWax which has yellow bottles for my guitar. I think that would work on your project very well too.

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For somebody who doesn't know what "steel wool" is, you have a pretty good grasp!

It is very fine strands of steel, which appear to be woven or spun together... I have never read up on the manufacturing process. But you end up with a pad that feels like a sponge and works to lightly scape the surface. The 0000 (that's 4 zeros, and is called four-ot) is the made with finest strands of steel. The 0 (one-ot) is noticeably courser.

If you just make a couple of passes over the finish, it will leave minute scratches. However, I always go over the finish (lightly) until it is completely dull... in essence, creating so many minute scratches that they blend together. Then I rub it down with the compound, which smoothes out all of the minute scratches, leaving a very slick semi-satin finish.

But, like I said before, that is just the technique that I use. There are others.

D~s

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