jaycee Posted January 15, 2005 Report Share Posted January 15, 2005 I have a Tanglewood odyssey acoustic guitar, Which are basically Ovation copies, they have round bodies. I dropped mine and then a piece of 6 x 4 foot chipboard fell on top of it, the neck broke off but fortunately it is a clean break. I have cleaned everything up and basically just needs glueing, but what type of glue must I use. It appers as is two types of adhesive has been used a clear one to glue the fretboard to the body, and a whitish yellow type for the neck joint, this stuff allmost looks like filler. I live in the UK so if you can point me to the suppliers that would be good many Thanks JayCee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted January 15, 2005 Report Share Posted January 15, 2005 If it's wood and not composite, just use carpenters glue. Titebond if it's available in the UK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanatic1 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 I preffer for all the reparations use Hide Glue, theres is a test with titebond and hide glue, and the hide glue is better, you need a small and thin glue, with a firm union between the wood, and the hide glue is organic, and the titebond its shintetic. For the fret board, its better titebond, and for other kind of reparations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 I preffer for all the reparations use Hide Glue, theres is a test with titebond and hide glue, and the hide glue is better, you need a small and thin glue, with a firm union between the wood, and the hide glue is organic, and the titebond its shintetic. For the fret board, its better titebond, and for other kind of reparations. ← What test is that? From what I've heard (I've never actually used hide glue) hide glue dries brittle and isn't nearly as strong as titebond. I don't really see how titebond being synthetic is a bad thing, either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 Brittle is good in acoustic guitars. Hide is also stronger than titebond, and copes with much higher temps before releasing. I use titebond, but for convenience, not because it is a superior glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanatic1 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 Thats a part of the article.- "OK, on to the heat stress test. My kitchen oven's lowest setting is very nearly 200 degrees Fahrenheit, so I chose that for my test. When I can sometime, I'll run this test at about 150 degrees. I used a good standard thermometer to calibrate my oven setting over a couple of hours, so I'd be sure it was very close to 200 degrees for the test." I felt I learned that hide glue in normal joint will stand up to heat so much better that the commonly used Titebond aliphatic resin that I've really become a crusader for the use of hide glue in highly sensitive stressed joints. By the way, 200 degrees is not that far from the heat of the inside of a car parked in the sun. My Nissan hatchback could easily make it to 175 within fifteen minutes. If you think that all musicians avoid leaving their instruments in parked cars, then you are thinking wrong! The trouble with hide glue its you need to mix the glue with water, and boiled for some minutes, and when its like liquid its time to use, and some luthiers preffer that blue for bridges and fretboards, because support the heat better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToneMonkey Posted January 21, 2005 Report Share Posted January 21, 2005 Just a quick note on using household oven for scentific tests: THEY DON'T WORK The variation in them is too great and the range of temps in the average household oven goes up and down too fast to conduct a proper test. A while back (back in the uni days) I was creep testing the glue that they stick plane wings on with. I designed and constructed the jigs, test machine, data capture and environmental chamber (or oven to those in the know ). After mapping the temp variation in the oven over a given time, it was clear that due to the heating element and the properties of the thermostat, you really couldn't get anywhere near decent results. I'm not saying that the experiment is wrong, I'm just saying that for an experiment, household ovens are crap (I had to rip out the whole control system and replace it with something a lot more responsive. Kaj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted January 21, 2005 Report Share Posted January 21, 2005 Hmmm...I didn't know that about hide glue. I'll have to try it sometime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanatic1 Posted January 21, 2005 Report Share Posted January 21, 2005 well Tone monkey, its only a reference to learn how the glue works with heat, and maybe you never heating your guitar until 200 degrees, its not a scientific test, its only to know the organic glue that came from animals, work better than shyntetic, i mean, titebond its awesome and i use in almost all my reparations, but i found the hide glue, and its my favorite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jehle Posted January 21, 2005 Report Share Posted January 21, 2005 What about GETA (guitarists for the ethical treatment of animals)? I bet they would prefer the use of Titebond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanatic1 Posted January 21, 2005 Report Share Posted January 21, 2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbrmiller Posted January 31, 2005 Report Share Posted January 31, 2005 The trouble with hide glue its you need to mix the glue with water, and boiled for some minutes, and when its like liquid its time to use, and some luthiers preffer that blue for bridges and fretboards, because support the heat better. ← You don't really boil your glue, do you? The Frets.com site you quote suggests 140 degrees Fahrenheit as a maximum. I've heard varying temperatures, and often let mine go hotter than that, but no source I've come across has suggested boiling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.