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The LPJ got it's binding fitted today, the rear of the body rounded over and the neck carve finished, Which means next week I should be able to glue in the neck, drill the jack socket and then start the staining - going to be a bright green 'burst. I'm looking forward to finishing this one.

51ea353e.jpg

Tele wise I routed the recess for the neck pickup and control mounting plates, I then gave the body a couple of coats of black stain and let it dry for a few hours. After sanding the black back I then applied a couple of coats of my honey/amber stain. The quilt is by no means a AAAAA but I think it looks pretty nice considering this is just as stained. Once I spray the toner, shading around the edge and the clear coats it should get some nice 3d depth to it. I think I'm going to go for a one piece flame maple neck or maybe slice it down the middle before routing the truss rod channel, G&L style.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/xlr8...le/0a516d92.jpg

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good.. Brazilian Mahogany..

yesterday.. too many drink.. so headache ...

i desirable your Lespaul.. i think it feel so good..

holiday is comming..

i think many guitar project members will busy . because of making guitar ^^

have nice day

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I really like the way that teh scarf is a diffrent kind of wood than the neck. It really brings something special to the neck. I done really like the design of the headstock but I've seen worse... and hey it's your guitar right? So you can do whatever you want to do! Also I think you should leave the back of the maple white and just stain the front of it. I think it looks awesome with the white maple next to the darker mahogany.

Edited by Godin SD
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Shaped the heel body join this morning for a more comfortable fit.

ad6ebb26.jpg

Also just about finished the neck for the Tele, after routing the trussrod channel I bandsaw the rough shape and then use the pin router;

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/xlr8shun/8f52d94c.jpg

before I can shape the back of the neck I taper the thickness and roughly shape the transitions,

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/xlr8shun/7e63e94a.jpg

Then it's back to the pin router to round over the rear using Mykas jig

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/xlr8shun/0eddc650.jpg

About 10 minutes sanding sees it all done,

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/xlr8shun/68c7f302.jpg

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nice work using those jigs to speed up time! May I recomend doing more shaping at the heel of the paul. I think that you can make it look sooooo cool and comfterable. I dont see why gibson doesent do this. I mean there glued in necks thers no reason why you shouldent take off a whole bunch of wood to make it look good and play well. I think yours looks good but would be better if you took off more.

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nice work using those jigs to speed up time!  May I recomend doing more shaping at the heel of the paul. I think that you can make it look sooooo cool and comfterable.  I dont see why gibson doesent do this.  I mean there glued in necks thers no reason why you shouldent take off a whole bunch of wood to make it look good and play well.  I think yours looks good but would be better if you took off more.

I thought about it but the Junior design does have a weakness at this point so I chose to stop at the first point the neck felt nice and comfortable - I have big hands :D

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xlr8, do you have a pic of the template you use for the tele neck? What bit do you use in the pin router for this? Also, how much do you taper the neck?

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xlr8, do you have a pic of the template you use for the tele neck? What bit do you use in the pin router for this? Also, how much do you taper the neck?

Hi Josh,

I'll dig out a pic of the template later, I use HSS end mills from the local engineering supplies, HSS is not a durable as Carbide but it does have a keener edge and you can tidy them up with a small diamond hone.

I taper the neck 3mm (1/8th) from headstock to heel and vary the overall thickness depending on whether I'm going for a chunky or slim neck - I use StewMac hotrods (for now) so you do have to take into account the depth of the truss rod channel as these are deeper than most other truss rods.

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Hey, cool! I am glad that you have found the jig helpful. Love the overhead router. I want one of those!

~David

I have found that jig SOOOOO useful. :D

Got around to routing the truss rod channel today using this jig and a suitable collar,

70e51f28.jpg

and here's the truss rod in position - I managed to leave the nut supported by the maple rather than a through channel.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/xlr8...PJ/cd87d3b2.jpg

I then bandsawed the fingerboard close to it's final dimensions and used the pin router to finish up - note the tape on the jig, it's easier to sand a few thou' off than to try and stick it back on :D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/xlr8...PJ/660cd23b.jpg

and here's the trial fitting of the fingerboard,

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/xlr8...PJ/3c86b6f9.jpg

Over the weekend I shall do the final sanding and fill the grain ready for staining and clearcoats.

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Hi what size roundover bit do you use to round the back of the neck?? and what size shank 1/4inch or 1/2inch?Also when doing this do you start from the headstock end or the heel end?? any tips would be greatly appreciated on how much do you take off in one pass or do you rout the correct depth all in one go. I have been looking at making a jig like Myka's but would like some more info, any help would be greatly appreciated. Kammo1

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Hi what size roundover bit do you use to round the back of the neck?? and what size shank 1/4inch or 1/2inch?Also when doing this do you start from the headstock end or the heel end?? any tips would be greatly appreciated on how much do you take off in one pass or do you rout the correct depth all in one go. I have been looking at making a jig like Myka's but would like some more info, any help would be greatly appreciated. Kammo1

I use a 7/8" roundover bit with a 1/2" shank - I seriously doubt you could get a bit large enough with a 1/4" shank. On one side you start from the headstock on the other from the heel and I usually take four passes.

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Hi thanks for the response, any chance of posting some pics of how to correctly do this?? sure would appreciate it very much, also where would I get a cutter like this from part number??. I've seen Mykas jig and does he use a 1 1/4 roundover or have I got it wrong. Kammo1.

Edited by Kammo1
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