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2nd Guitar, 1st Quilt Top -ok?


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Im afraid i might not be able to, as im very limited on time, and i might not be able to access the forum till next weekend, but ill give it a go.

Now on to my Kirk Hammet style Jem. For anybody whos interested its an all-black Jem i.e. like Kirks signiture ESP excep with custom wound (by me) Evo's with coil taps, and PRS 513 wiring. also im looking at putting in a sustainer like what psw is doing. and im also hopefully going to start to make a FR edge lo-pro this week.

......Cant waitr

Matt

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Im afraid i might not be able to, as im very limited on time, and i might not be able to access the forum till next weekend, but ill give it a go.

Now on to my Kirk Hammet style Jem.  For anybody whos interested its an all-black Jem i.e. like Kirks signiture ESP excep with custom wound (by me) Evo's with coil taps, and PRS 513 wiring. also im looking at putting in a sustainer like what psw is doing. and im also hopefully going to start to make a FR edge lo-pro this week.

......Cant waitr

Matt

If they're custom-wound they're probably not Evos. :D I'd love to see how you get on with a 'manual' version of a 513, though. That'd be super-slick. A sustainer would be great, too, though-- but I could've sworn that even psw's sustainer takes up the space that will be occupied by one coil of your neck humbucker.

Still, this guitar turned out wonderfully and I'm definitely looking forward to the next build!

Greg

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Well i have some info on number of windings and coil sizes on the evos as well as other pickups, some im just going to do that except by doing it myself i can scatterwind them for better tone.

I was also thinking of putting the sustainer in the middle.

Matt

P.S. Thanks skibum5545

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Excellent looking guitar judging by the GOTM shots! I like everything about it: The shape, the stain and the execution! Congrats! Now one question: What is this Rustin plastic coating stuff you used for the clean? Where can I find more info on it? It seems it's easy to use: On the pics before sending the finish looks to be not applied very well....but still it looks GREAT after sanding/polishing!

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Thanks alot dude!

Yea didn't do a great job in sanding between coats so it meant i had to do ALOT on the last coat. Rustins Plastic coating is a laquer that i got form a wood supplier like axeminster powertools. (UK) im not quite sure where internationally you would get it but id look on google or something, Also I would try and get it in spray cans or use a spray gun becasue painting it on leaves brush marks i found. Also you cant wash out the brushes unless you get special thinners so i left them in a plastic bag. Also you will want the buffing compound and then i used wax furniture polish afterwards to see what would haoppen and it gave it an even deeper shine. :D

Hope this helps :D

Matt

Edited by Matt
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Marcel,

I've used the Rustin's on my last few guitars, so I'll share my experience:

You'll have a good deal of levelling to do if you brush, but the Rustin's builds quickly so it's not too painful. I spray, but you'll want a good chemical mask if you go this route - the fumes are very obnoxious, and Stuart Ketchin, a doctor who reguarly posts at the MIMF has reported becoming sensitised to it , resulting in nausea and headaches which forced him to stop using it. I would recomend a mask even if you're brushing.

The finish dries very hard, with minimal shrinking, and can be buffed out after approximately a week. I've buffed it out sooner with good results, but you can get a little shrinkage if you buff too soon, which leads to pores showing. As you can see it comes to a pretty high gloss with the Rustin's burnishing paste, though I find certain lighting conditions show some small swirls on dark finishes.

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Thanks for your post Setch! You posts sounds as if this is the perfect finish for getting a nice glossy finish as a beginner! I have proper spraying equipment, etc. but I never dared to finish a guitar yet. Especially not my custom builds I invested months in. Do you think this is an easily solution for getting a high quality pro finish? Or more a good option for an okay finish?

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Thanks for your post Setch! You posts sounds as if this is the perfect finish for getting a nice glossy finish as a beginner! I have proper spraying equipment, etc. but I never dared to finish a guitar yet. Especially not my custom builds I invested months in. Do you think this is an easily solution for getting a high quality pro finish? Or more a good option for an okay finish?

I think it's a great choice for getting a pro finish. IMO the only negative is the lack of burn in, but nitro is the only finish with that property, and that throws up all sorts of issues with explosion and toxicity. Stuart K' (see above) aparently likes it best of all the finishes he's used, and only stopped using it because it made him sick.

With a good spray setup you should finid it a piece of cake. I lay down two coats 15 mins apart, then allow a good hour to cure before the next 2. You can easily lay down 6 - 8 coats in one day, and that's enough to do a natural finished or dyed guitar, assuming good surface prep. Spraying colour coats is more complex, and spraying enough to fill the ridges around scraped bindings can be a bitch, but that can be true of any finish.

My maple and mahogany DC, and the Les Paul currently in the running for GOTM are both finished with Rustin's - I think the finishes on both look pretty pro.

One thing which I *have* to pass on - you can use the Rustin's mixed with alcohol soluable dyes to shoot tinted clear. All the literature says it's a no-no, but a word with their tech advice, plus my experience, says otherwise.

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Thanks again for the info Setch! Sounds good....I guess I'll have to check that stuff out. Is it hard to avoid runs with that stuff? That's my biggest concern: I know how hard it is to spray simple objects if you have no expirience, let alone guitars! And with Nitro and other highly fluid laquers, runs and drops in the finish are VERY hard to get out/right if not nearly impossible. The always stay visible to some degree and you need countless coats to cover them up. I imagine that Rustin stuff is a very thick and viscid layuer and therefore easier to get a good finish with....am I right here? I imagine it a little like poly, where you put a fat layer one and now matter how bad it is sprayed it's not difficult to dans everything out....

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Runs aren't very hard at all to get out, just time consuming. It might be harder in the Rustins stuff, but I don't think it's THAT hard. GM, you should just try a refinish on a cheap guitar. You'll learn a lot on your first. It's hard to get a perfect finish, but I think if you just go for it you'll be suprised. As long as you take your time preparing everything perfectly, the paint job will look good.

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Matt, I'd be interested to hear how your guitar looks in a few days. I buffed out this headstock:

buffed_out_head.jpg

which has an ebony headplate, and I found it was showing pores after a few days. They were only visible on close inspection, and were removed by a very quick sand with p2000 and rebuff, but they were still obvious enough to make me wait next time.

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well its been almost 2 weeks now and it looks the same. But i do understand your point. Had I the time in the world and not have had a time limit then I would have put on twice the amount of coats (8) and left it longer to buff. I however left it up to a day between each coat so that each coat itself was pretty much hard.

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