t1r12003 Posted September 3, 2005 Report Share Posted September 3, 2005 I'm starting a Peavey T-60 Project. It will have a lacewood back with a very nice figured maple top. It will be back routed because I want as much figuring showing as possible. Here's the template I printed out: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t1r12003 Posted September 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2005 The lacewood back: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t1r12003 Posted September 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2005 and the nice figured top... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t1r12003 Posted September 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2005 I got the lacewood back cut out: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t1r12003 Posted September 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2005 Gluing the bookmatched figured top together. I had to weigh it down with a paint can, my router, and a palm sander because the two pieces were slightly warped. As long as my center line is flush, all is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeiscosRock Posted September 3, 2005 Report Share Posted September 3, 2005 I rather like that top.. looks good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t1r12003 Posted September 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2005 I rather like that top.. looks good ← Thanks, that's without any wetting or oil. I can't wait to finish that top and watch patterns jump out from the guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtis P Posted September 4, 2005 Report Share Posted September 4, 2005 if the wood is warped, it will be warped on the guitar too.... hate to break it to yea, my sugestion, table saw it right down the glue line and re joint the edges, you will be much happier in the end Good luck Curtis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javacody Posted September 4, 2005 Report Share Posted September 4, 2005 It's not warped on the edges, correct? You wouldn't add weight to the top for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted September 4, 2005 Report Share Posted September 4, 2005 Curtis, I'm reading that as saying the centre seam's fine, straight, etc. but theat there's a bit of warp in the rest. Shouldn't be a real problem, and frankly, given it's a burl top, it doesn't surprise me in the least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t1r12003 Posted September 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2005 This morning I got up and glued the top to the body. I checked out every side where the lacewood meets the maple top and I have no gaps. I used two scrap pieces to brace the top down in case the warping would cause the top to be raised from the body in the middle. I should know when I rout the pickup cavities, but I'm confident it's fine. The warping was very slight. I have Labor Day (Monday) off work, so I'm going to run my router with a follower bearing around the body to have my final shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t1r12003 Posted September 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2005 SWEET! Glue dried, and I took the clamps off this morning and ran the router around the top. Next step is routing for the neck pocket, pickup cavities, and back control panel. Here's the full body: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t1r12003 Posted September 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2005 Here's the routed neck pocket. I'll be cleaning up the sides: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t1r12003 Posted September 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2005 I contoured the front and back with a 45 degree angle router bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t1r12003 Posted September 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2005 The back countoured as well: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted September 5, 2005 Report Share Posted September 5, 2005 Um, just a question: you gonna smooth out the lumps and bumps that the guitar's got pretty much all the way 'round the perimeter? Including but not limited to the entire lower bout, the waist, the horns, and particularly that treble-side sticky outey bit next the the neck pocket? Might be perspective, but the general shape looks way out of whack and balance to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t1r12003 Posted September 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2005 Um, just a question: you gonna smooth out the lumps and bumps that the guitar's got pretty much all the way 'round the perimeter? Including but not limited to the entire lower bout, the waist, the horns, and particularly that treble-side sticky outey bit next the the neck pocket? Might be perspective, but the general shape looks way out of whack and balance to me. ← Yes that will all be smoothed out. Thanks for the concern. I am going to have to fill in a lot of spots on this maple with epoxy. Luckily, the biggest spot is where the neck humbucker will go, so I'll rout the two pickup cavities first before I start epoxy filling. Any suggestions with the expoxy? I think I've heard guys use a dropper or syringe. Does it darken the wood or prevent the oil or laquer from penetrating resulting in discoloration? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted September 5, 2005 Report Share Posted September 5, 2005 You really should have waited to bevel the edges after cleaning up the shape of the body. You're going to have to do it all over again now. Slow down and take your time, there's no rush, man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay5 Posted September 6, 2005 Report Share Posted September 6, 2005 You really should have waited to bevel the edges after cleaning up the shape of the body. Agreed. You dont look like youre using any templates. Im just hoping the neck fits in that pocket ok, its kind of rough. I wouldnt "clean it up" too much before you address how much room you have to work with. Without sounding like an ass, I also dont really understand the use of both spalted maple AND lacewood. Theyre just to different to be on the same guitar IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t1r12003 Posted September 6, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2005 You really should have waited to bevel the edges after cleaning up the shape of the body. Agreed. You dont look like youre using any templates. Im just hoping the neck fits in that pocket ok, its kind of rough. I wouldnt "clean it up" too much before you address how much room you have to work with. Without sounding like an ass, I also dont really understand the use of both spalted maple AND lacewood. Theyre just to different to be on the same guitar IMO. ← The neck fits perfectly in the pocket. I'm actually surprised with myself on that one. I don't use any templates at all, besides printing out a picture enlarged to actual size, it's all free hand routing, drilling, sanding etc. If the body shape looks a little off after the bevelling, not to worry, I'm sanding it all out making the edges smooth. It will all be rounded out. I love the lacewood combo with this top, but it's not for everyone I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted September 6, 2005 Report Share Posted September 6, 2005 That's great that your neck fits perfectly, but you've still got a lot of work ahead on that body. Concentrate on getting the edge perfect, then re-bevel the edge. The bearing on the router bit is going to take any imperfection in the shape and amplify it right on the top of your guitar in that bevel. If you can, try to use some kind of stationary drum sander to clean that up--either a drill press mounted one or an oscillating unit. Good job on the neck pocket, now make it look good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AlexVDL Posted September 6, 2005 Report Share Posted September 6, 2005 Man, you didn't even cut out your template correctly... I can see the body edges and you cut the paper far from it on certain spots. I can see why your body looks so screwed up in my opinion. It was definately a bad thing to bevel the edges without smoothing the body outline. If you look at the body of the T60, the lower part is symmetrical, yours is all out of shape. PLEASE do the body ouline first before you do anything else on this guitar!!! I'm just trying to help you, I'm not dissing you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted September 6, 2005 Report Share Posted September 6, 2005 Make a perfect drawing, cut it out perfectly, use it to make a plywood or MDF template that's dead-on accurate, use a router to trim down to the lines, and then re-bevel everything. Like crafty said, a stanionary drum sander is your friend in this situation, although for convex curves (ie, everything but the inside of the cutouts and the waist area), a flat/belt/disc/block of wood sander is going to get you smoother results. Drums aren't great at dealing with convex curves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted September 6, 2005 Report Share Posted September 6, 2005 Quick question, do you have a complete T-60 that you're using for parts, or just the neck? If you have the whole thing including the body, use THAT as your template to make a template. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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