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compound radius


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that's what i did on a neck, it's still not done though, i did the whole thing in 16, then the nut-4th in 10, then used my 12 and 14 blocks along with a straight edge to level out the middle of the neck till it was just right. I'd say it's quite a bit more work.

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how exactly would u use a compound radius sanding block? as soon as u move it to start sanding ur changing the area on the fretboard that's being compounded... unless u made a 20 inch sanding block and only moved along the length of the fingerboard by about 1/4 of an inch.. but that might take a while B)

unless... u only sanded one way.... but then ur going to flatten the 10" radius section with the 16" radius section of the sanding block.. and vise versa.... ya.... that wouldn't work,

unless u sanded side to side, instead of up and down the fingerboard.... but... that souns kinda stupid doesn't it :D

ya, i'm still stumped as to how warmouth does it unless they just have it programed into a CNC machine in which case they're cheating :D

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A flat block at least 13" long. Along with using your head, checking the board with accurate radius gauges, checking straightness along the neck from end to end with a precision ground straight edge. Try it with radius blocks, and you end up sanding off more wood than you should be. Radius blocks are good for roughing in the radius on a new, flat board, but for the best playing neck (neck relief under total control of your leveling), a long flat block should be used. The block should be very flat, within .005" of being dead flat.

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I think warmoth uses cnc machines. seems like the only practical way of doing it.

I've given it some thought though. you could make a compound radius sanding block from some polystyrene or similar material using a hot metal wire and 2 templates (one 10" and one 16" or whatever radiuses you're going for. model plane builders have done this for years). The hot wire acts as a knife and if you follow the 2 templates (one at each end of the block) you'll get a nice compound radius.

I would suggest you check up on this technique over at some RC forum, they're bound to know more about it.

if you make a long compound radius sanding block, keep in mind that you'll have to move it across the fretboard as opposed to sanding along the length of it.

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Also keep in mind that since the fingerboard is going to be conical and not cylindrical, you'll have to move a long sanding block more where the radius is bigger.

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I think warmoth uses cnc machines. seems like the only practical way of doing it.

I've given it some thought though. you could make a compound radius sanding block from some polystyrene or similar material using a hot metal wire and 2 templates (one 10" and one 16" or whatever radiuses you're going for. model plane builders have done this for years). The hot wire acts as a knife and if you follow the 2 templates (one at each end of the block) you'll get a nice compound radius.

I would suggest you check up on this technique over at some RC forum, they're bound to know more about it.

if you make a long compound radius sanding block, keep in mind that you'll have to move it across the fretboard as opposed to sanding along the length of it.

Warmoth uses a swing sander for their compund radius

We use a CNC

You can do it by hand with a long straight block if you are careful and use radius gauges

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