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Mikhail's Project


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Hi everyone,

It's been long enough - I figure I might as well start posting some progress pics...

the specs:

Body - modified Warmoth chambered VIP - AAAAA flame maple on african mahogany

Neck - modified Warmoth angled paddlehead - 25.5" scale - honduran mahogany/"SRV" asymmetric back shape/flame maple headstock veneer/brazilian rosewood fingerboard

Inlay - paua abalone, red heart abalone, bronze MOP

Frets - Dunlop 6100

Hardware - LR Baggs T-Bridge, brazilian rosewood "stopbar" + string-through (concept courtesy of David Myka), Grover locking rotomatics, bone nut

Pickups - Seymour Duncan '59 @ bridge + neck, SSL-2 Vintage flat RW/RP @ middle

Controls - Megaswitch "E" 5-way, push/pull volume (magnetics - pull to add middle p/u), coil split (inside/outside), volume (piezo), 3-way toggle (magnetics/both/piezo)

Finish - TBD tortoise shell/tiger eye, faux binding, nitro lacquer clearcoat

strung_up_1.jpg

grovers

headstock

body

body side

back

inlay 1

inlay 2

inlay 3

inlay 12th

strung up 2

I strung it up temporarily last night... ended up playing for an hour. It's already sounding incredible :D

It's going to be hard to leave it alone for a month while the nitro cures :D

Sorry for the camera-phone quality pics :D My digital camera is in Chicago this week with the other house guitarist (my son).

I'll update them later as things progress...

Thanks for looking! B)

Mike

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Just for the record... :D no claims of originality made here. My "original" plan was to just go ahead and cop the PRS shape and call it good, but then my son did some sketching and I liked what he came up with. To me it looks like 'a lotta PRS' meets 'a little old school'. But that's probably just me.

I like Perry's headstock shape, too. Me thinks you could open some really big bottles with it. :D

In "more important" news... Almost got the dye sequencing worked out for the maple top. B)

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  • 5 weeks later...

...and it just didn't seem right to have paua abalone inlay and white side markers residing on the same neck, so I drilled them out and replaced them with some dots I made from paua heart. B)

abalonesidedots.JPG

very clean work.. is it CNC Working?

very.. clean.. amazing work..

I can't take any credit for the CNC work :D It's a Warmoth body :D

Mike

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Important safety tip...

Do your pore filling before sealing the faux binding! The StewMac waterbased filler tends to build up at the taped edge and it's about impossible to sand back properly. I ended up unmasking the binding to finish sanding the filler, then I re-masked and re-sealed the binding before dyeing the back.

I'm actually kind of glad it worked out that way (besides the trial-and-error lesson learned :D ) because I wasn't entirely pleased with the tinted binding. This time I just sealed it natural with straight shellac. :D

More pics soon...

Mike

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Next time just sand the figured maple to 1000... then you won't need the grain filler, maple don't need it, if anything at all iwould use sanding sealer or straight lacquer.

But the mahogany will still need filling, and I believe that's what Mikhail was referring to.

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I'm really liking this guitar! It's classy, well executed, and will hopefully be a real winner when you get done with it.

Is this guitar going to be for you, or your son, when finished? Purely out of curiosity, how old is your son?

Anyway, good luck with this guitar. It'll be a keeper.

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Maiden/Setch - I'm not filling the maple, just the mahogany :D The maple will just get stain, shellac sealcoat, and lacquer.

Skibum - thanks! No, this one's all mine :D I may build one for my son later, although my 15 year-old daughter already has dibs on the next one. My son is almost 21 and he's majoring in music technology at Seattle Pacific University.

Mike

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Setch, I guess you were right!!! Anyhow, I hate the stew mac grain filler, I get faster and better results from their slow drying epoxy! I used the grain filler once and got so frustrated with it that I threw away almost the entire can to the trash.

Mike, since you got that body, you could just make a set of templates out of it and then just buy the necks from warmoth and make your own body! You will be saving $200 or more just on the body!

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Now that I've figured out how to use the Stewmac filler it's going better. I thought about epoxy, but it sounded a bit hard to sand if I messed it up. That mahogany looks really nice with the dark tobacco dye. :D

Maiden, I bought my Warmoth stuff before I discovered PG, and now I've been so inspired and learned so much from all of you that I'll probably start building my own from scratch from now on. I need my own workshop! :D

I suppose I could make a template, but I don't know if I'd build another just like it. My daughter wants a Strat, and I might build a Singlecut-style for myself sometime.

Mike

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Not much to look at right now, but the mahogany is pore filled, sanded back to 400 grit, and ready for a final pass of dark tobacco dye.

grainfill2.JPG

more grain fill

I've found that wiping shellac over heavily dyed wood tends to pick up some of the dye, leaving dark edges around each wiping pass.

So, I got a Preval spray unit today and I'll see how it does with the shellac sealcoat.

Mike

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Rolling right along now...

The mahogany back is dyed dark tobacco brown and sealed with shellac. The Preval sprayer worked great with the shellac. But I goofed on the first coat and got too close with the sprayer in a couple of places, causing some slight sags, which picked up some of the dye (the problem I was trying to avoid by spraying instead of wiping! :D) and left some dark lines. They weren't too noticeable, but I went ahead and used some cotton swabs dipped in alcohol to remove the sags. I used another swab with the dye to do a little touch up, then resprayed the repairs with shellac.

back1.JPG

(yes, that's a black cat strolling by in the background :D )

faux binding

another shot of the back

Next up - dyeing and sanding back the top. B)

Mike

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