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Mikhail's Project


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Now a pass of really dark tobacco brown (1 part Colortone to 4.5 parts H20).

darkbrownstain1.JPG

Can't see them in this pic, but there are a few spots around the edge where I either left some small shellac smudges or didn't get all the tape residue off. :D (I left the green 3M masking tape on too long - couldn't find my roll of blue that day...) But those spots should go away when I sand it back.

More to come... :D

Mike

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Ahhh! A Black cat! You are sure to mess up now. :D

Hehehe.

Upon returning from posting these pics, I found that the black cat's gray brother had gotten up on the counter and walked through my work area...

Little tobacco brown pawprints all over (guitar's ok - he didn't touch it). Fortunately, naphtha and a lot of elbow grease removes Colortone stain from white formica. :D

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ive gotten away from using the 3M green

The 3M green 1/8" pinstriping tape works really well for the binding edges. But for general masking the blue is easier to work with and you can leave it on longer without problems. There's a reason why the green is labeled "three day safe release." :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Took a few days to do some more dye testing before I went further...

Back on task - did another pass of dark tobacco brown, then sanded back with 400 grit. 1st sand back

Then a pass of lighter tobacco brown (1:32) light brown

For some reason that pass turned out quite a bit darker than it did on my test piece, so I got out the 400 grit again and did a heavier sand back, making sure the high spots in the grain were nice and light:

sandback2.JPG

So, today I learned that flame maple on a carved top is a lot more work to sand back than my flat test slab of quilted maple. :D

Mike

Edited by mikhailgtrski
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nice work... :D this is gonna be good....... :D

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Next, I scrubbed out the red with alcohol, a couple of passes.

alcoholscrub.JPG

After that a pass of yellow (Colortone Lemon Yellow @ 1:21): yellow pass

Another view: yellow pass

Once it dries I'll wipe it down with naphtha to check the color. If it's right I'll seal it with a washcoat of shellac.

This tortoise shell seems to shift color a bit from yellowish to reddish, depending on the light. Pretty cool. :D

Mike

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Update...

I decided to spray a couple more coats of shellac, then scuff sanded with 400 grit until it was level.

Sprayed the first coat of nitro, let it flash for 5 - 10 minutes, put it under the fan for 15 minutes, then put it in the heat box for 15 - 20 minutes... oops :D - internal dialogue is saying "should have tested on scrap first" - 12" turned out to be a little too close for the heat lamp and I got some slight bubbling on the back. I adjusted the lamp to be 18" away and the top and the neck turned out much better - no bubbles.

Of course, now I'm sanding the back (should be able to leave the sides alone) down to bare wood so I can reapply the stain. And, of course, I ran out of the tobacco brown. :D

Oh well, a minor detour... at least I didn't mess up the top. B)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Back on track :D

Sanded the back, re-stained it and wiped on a few coats of shellac.

I found a few really small bubbles in the area around the volume knob - my theory is that the wood is thin there and the heat from over-cooking the back side caused the bubbling. I successfully drop-filled those with lacquer. :D

Clearcoating to continue tomorrow...

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I managed to spray 3 coats yesterday... and no more bubbling issues. :D It's working really well now that I've got the procedure sorted out:

- Let it sit for 5 minutes after spraying

- Bake one side for 15 minutes with the infrared lamp 18" away

- Take it out of the heat box and let it cool for 5 minutes (I realized I had forgotten this step the first time)

- Bake the other side for 15 minutes.

- Let it dry for 3 hours between coats

I can probably push the baking cycle a few more minutes now that it's got some build.

This Behlen's rattlecan nitro seems to be pretty good stuff - builds quickly, sprays nicely without spitting, and you'd really have to go crazy with it to get anything approaching a run or drip. I'm just spraying medium-wet coats.

Hopefully two more coats tonight.

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Do you have any pics of your heat box setup?

I'll try to post one later, but it's really simple:

I took the large cardboard box that my drill press came in, taped the flaps open to give it more height (about 20"), and cut a hole in the bottom for the lamp to shine through. It's just a cheap reflector with a 250 watt red infrared lamp. I lay the body down on a folded up bedsheet, place the box over it, set the lamp over the hole and bake away.:D

Algee gave me the idea for it.

Mike

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(drum roll)... here's my Totally High-Tech Heat Box :D

heatbox2.JPG

inside the box

After 5 coats (4 on the back due to bubble episode :D ) I scuff sanded with 400 grit: front back headstock (not sanded) neck (not sanded)

I got some really tiny bubbles in the last coat, near the upper waist. Not due to the heatbox this time - my guess is I got too close with the can and some propellant got trapped in the finish. I dabbed lacquer thinner on the bubble areas and brushed on some lacquer. I'll see how it sands out tomorrow.

Mike

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