dave293 Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 This i my first build, it is based on a EBMM john petrucci model The specs are: 1 piece silky oak body rock maple neck with jarrah fretboard 24 medium jumbo frets 12" radius 25.5 inch scale length hardtail bridge string through 2 humbuckers with 3way switch 1 volume, 1 tone This is the slab of silky oak i started with, it's large enough to make 2 one peice bodies. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave...rrrrrrrrrrr.jpg Here it is planed to thickness. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/b26a1c90.jpg The body rough cut out. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave...oughcutbody.jpg The body sanded to shape. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave...oughcutbody.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/sanded002.jpg The bevels started. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/001001.jpg The truss rod slot routed, the bit wandered abit on the first pass, but the channel is straight the rest of the way down. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/001002.jpg The neck rough cut out. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/456001.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/456002.jpg The neck sanded closer to final shape and the tuner holes drilled. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/254001.jpg Thicknessing the headstock. First pass http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/254002.jpg Jarrah fretboad slotted http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/456003.jpg Truss rod adjustment hole being drilled http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/284.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/274005.jpg How it ended up. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/274003.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/274001.jpg Fretboard being clamped on. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/274002.jpg Fretboard flush with neck and the curve at the headstock sanded. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/284001.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/284002.jpg Comments and constructive critism very welcome. Sorry if thats too mant pictures. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azz-230 Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 Ive always whanted to try some ausi woods like jarrah, Blackwood and QLD maple oh and gidgee, dont know if anyones used this before but from what i have read its like eboney accept harder and eboney is the hardes wood ive used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screwdelulu Posted April 29, 2006 Report Share Posted April 29, 2006 Looking GOOD! I really like to see clean work - this is one of them... keep it going Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted April 29, 2006 Report Share Posted April 29, 2006 You probably know more about wood than I do, but are you sure thats silky oak? I bought some silky oak veneer and it looked nothing like that, it had a sort of crazy spotty grain pattern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave293 Posted April 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2006 You probably know more about wood than I do, but are you sure thats silky oak? I bought some silky oak veneer and it looked nothing like that, it had a sort of crazy spotty grain pattern. Yeah it is silky oak. It has that pattern but its not very large and can't be seen in the photos, Hopefully it will show up much better when it's sanded and finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 (edited) Nice going , keep up the posts. I always wondered about Jarrah as a fret board. My only concern was that Jarrah is quite an oily wood and as such I thought it would be hard to find a dry piece that had not split as It tends to do when it ages. It should feel good anyway. How heavy is the silky oak body? azz , Blackwood is fantastic as a feature top check out my blackwood topped LP Jr guitar under construction. QLD maple is not that great, Its useable but its quite soft, more like a cheep mahogany. I built a little solid body electric out of it for my kids. Its not that resonant. Never heard of gidgee! Another blackwood project this time a lap steel Edited April 30, 2006 by thirdstone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 Very nice! Looking quite excellent... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave293 Posted April 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 How heavy is the silky oak body? It's actually pretty light at the moment. azz-230- Have a look a matons website they have a page where they discuss australian tonewoods like bunya, Victorian Blackwood, Queensland Maple and Queensland Walnut http://www.maton.com.au/timbers.asp Some other woods i have heard of being used are Victorian Ash/ Tasmainian oak, Hoop Pine, Lacewood, king william pine, tasmainian mytle and tasmianian huon pine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skibum5545 Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 Lookin' good! I really like how this particular piece of Silky Oak (known as Lacewood over in the States FWIW) has a really subtle pattern to its grain; it'll look just stunning under a finish. Speaking of which, what are you doing for a finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave293 Posted May 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 ^ I haven't decided on the finish yet, i was thinking maybe a translucent cherry red SG style of finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave293 Posted May 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2006 Today i routed the neck pocket. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/075002.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/075001.jpg There you can see the bevels, they are still -really- rought. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/075003.jpg It's starting to look like a guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Brown Posted May 7, 2006 Report Share Posted May 7, 2006 looking good, one question why didnt you use the 4+2 headstock, no string tees unless your using tuners with stagered height posts as for finish id recomend using some of that crome illusion paint or whater its called, if youve seen a tvr you'll know what i mean, you should be able to get something simialar if not the same as the mystic dream finish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skibum5545 Posted May 7, 2006 Report Share Posted May 7, 2006 A friend of mine built a partially lacewood guitar a while back, and just under a clear nitro finish, it turns this stunning, warm reddish-brown color. Your lacewood is lighter than his by the looks of it, so I'd imagine it'd age to a great, warm orangey-red even without a colored lacquer. Of course, I'll always advocate a clear finish on a guitar, unless it's the rattiest poplar Lowe's has to offer, so do what makes you happy. All I'm saying is that under a clear finish, it'll still be reddish, but a much more natural red color that I personally would prefer. If you want a cherry red guitar, then by all means go for it. As for a Chromalusion finish, while it'd look pretty cool (especially on a guitar as curvy and beveled as this one), the wood is far too pretty for me to be able to advocate anything but a transparent finish. I like this build a lot-- keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave293 Posted May 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2006 looking good, one question why didnt you use the 4+2 headstock, no string tees unless your using tuners with stagered height posts as for finish id recomend using some of that crome illusion paint or whater its called, if youve seen a tvr you'll know what i mean, you should be able to get something simialar if not the same as the mystic dream finish The reason for the 6 inline headstock was because i already had some 6 inline tuners lying around anyway. A friend of mine built a partially lacewood guitar a while back, and just under a clear nitro finish, it turns this stunning, warm reddish-brown color. Your lacewood is lighter than his by the looks of it, so I'd imagine it'd age to a great, warm orangey-red even without a colored lacquer. Of course, I'll always advocate a clear finish on a guitar, unless it's the rattiest poplar Lowe's has to offer, so do what makes you happy. All I'm saying is that under a clear finish, it'll still be reddish, but a much more natural red color that I personally would prefer. If you want a cherry red guitar, then by all means go for it. As for a Chromalusion finish, while it'd look pretty cool (especially on a guitar as curvy and beveled as this one), the wood is far too pretty for me to be able to advocate anything but a transparent finish. I like this build a lot-- keep up the good work! The wood is a nice orangey pink, the more i work on this guitar, the more i'm leaning towards a clear finish, i would be shame to hide the wood and the one peice body. But i wont worry about finishes untill i'm up to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lietuvis Posted May 8, 2006 Report Share Posted May 8, 2006 It's looking nice so far. How does the Silky Oak compare to Red or White Oak? Is it harder/softer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave293 Posted May 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 It's looking nice so far. How does the Silky Oak compare to Red or White Oak? Is it harder/softer? I have no experience used any oak so i can't answer that, but silky oak is fairly soft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 'Silky Oak' isn't an oak. Completely different wood, as far as I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nekul Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 Dave, I am really impressed with what youve done here. It seems you have access to similar timbers to what I tend to use. I get lots of Silky oak, a lot o flocal stuff and also some Queensland silky. I havent tried jarah yet but have used brush box once and also forrest oak for a nice neck through. They worked fine but I still favour the silky oak, its so good to work with. Its great to see another aussie enthusiast. I am currently putting together a couple of projects, one being a silky oak strat from one piece and another based on a caparison Horus. Im thinking at the moment that I might go down the Applehorn route and sink some sort of design into the top of the body. Im thinking maybe a big Hemi or something, not quite sure yet. Keep us posted with the build. Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 Hey dave, what tool(s) did you use for the beveling? You look dead on to the measurement, looks great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave293 Posted May 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 ^ I used a rasp and some files. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave293 Posted December 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 I know i've been bad with updating this thread (tbh I forgot I even made it.) This is what the guitar looks like as of today. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/Picture-1.jpg I smashed it because there were a few things on the guitar which i was not 100% happy with, I know I can do much better. It would have cost me more to finish the guitar than what I paid for the wood and i would have ended up with something i'm not happy with. I'm going to start over, do some things different and end up with a better guitar that i am happy with. Now the real reason for bumping this thread, I have a another project, a tele -2 piece alder body -rock maple neck -east indian rosewood fretboard With Hardware http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/DSC00803.jpg Details of neck binding. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/DSC00783.jpg I have plenty more pics and progress shots in my photobucket. http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/dave293/?start=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 Duuuude. Ouch. Not my way at all, but fair play to you. Still, s'shame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave293 Posted December 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2006 Yeah I guess so but I was really unhappy with the way it was turning out, i know i can do much better. It was hard to get the motivation to work on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~john~ Posted December 10, 2006 Report Share Posted December 10, 2006 Will you be starting a new one of the same design Dave? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave293 Posted December 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2006 Probably, i may choose something different though. I've got some wood from the same board as the orginal thats just not wide enought so i'm thinking maybe a neckthru jackson style soloist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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