Working With Aluminum

[Mickguard]

Okay, I've got it in my head to build a better compensated wraparound bridge...

Not that I think there's anything really wrong with what's available, just that I'd like to try...but I know nothing about working with metal (aluminum in this case).

So I'm hoping someone here would have an idea about where to start -- for example: should I look into melting the aluminum and casting it in a mold (I can make the mold easily enough using an existing bridge)?

Or would it be easier to shape the aluminum from a block using tools (dremel, files, etc.)?

Most aluminum bridges seem to be plated --is that a necessity? is it because the aluminum isn't hard enough otherwise, or just because it's not so pretty to look at? (I figure anything I come up with won't be all that pretty either.)

Obviously, I'm not looking at a complicated design --in fact, I'm interested in simplifying the existing wraparound style (closer to the original 50s design).

[GuitarGuy]

Funny you should mention that. I'm making just that type of bridge. And I just got my powdercoating gear set up.

Aluminum is soft but not too soft to be used for this kind of setup. I've been toying with the idea of carbon steel inserts on each adjustable saddle but its still a work in progress.

[Mickguard]

Funny you should mention that. I'm making just that type of bridge. And I just got my powdercoating gear set up.

Aluminum is soft but not too soft to be used for this kind of setup. I've been toying with the idea of carbon steel inserts on each adjustable saddle but its still a work in progress.

Any chance of you setting up a progress thread on this one? I'd be interested in seeing it.

There's a guy here on ebay selling chunks of aluminum --AU4G, what ever that is...

[ToneMonkey]

AluminIum scratches and once it does then it losses the property of being inert to most things. AluminIum (bloody yanks ) itself isn't inert (it's reactive) but the oxide layer formed on the outside of the metal is non reactive.

As for smelting it, I can't see a problem off the top of my head, provided that you'll be able to get the item out of the mold. I've only got experience of smelting and casting lead and casting iron. One bit of advise that I can give is that your mold should in no way be even the slightest bit damp, my old man nearly took out the whole family casting a weight for a telescope stand. The mold was slighly damp and the molten metal exploded out and went everywhere, luckily enough missing everyone (a miracle if ever there was one).

I know that I've worked AluminIum before, but I really can't remember what I was doing with it, so I'll keep quiet on that one.

[Mattia]

Y'know, I'm blaming you for this. I'm semi-seriously considering getting a small (cheap) milling machine (cost about 250 euros or so) to try my hand at some metal bits and pieces. Bridges for electric fanned-fret isntruments in particular. And/or some minor toolmaking (small fingerplanes, that sort of thing).

Now, to justify the expense to myself...

[ToneMonkey]

Mattia,

I'll justify it to you if it helps

[Mickguard]

Y'know, I'm blaming you for this.

Guilty...but you know it's the next step, that's why. And it's possible. And it can be done. So it should be done.

How am I doing?

Now, Tonemonkey's explosion story has kind of put me off on that part....

As for the spelling...the French spell it aluminIum too. You want to be like the French?

[ToneMonkey]

As for the spelling...the French spell it aluminIum too. You want to be like the French?

Cook with too much Garlic, burn sheep at ports and stop your wife from shaving her armpits then

[Mattia]

Mattia,

I'll justify it to you if it helps

I think I'll start with buying the bandsaw and building the thickness sander. And then figuring out if I'd rather have a spindle sander or a mill...

[Setch]

Don't forget that a small milling/boring machine can do double duty as a drill press if you don't have one. My dad recently bought a Clarke Metal worker milling machine which I use a lot - it has enough reach to drill stud holes for a bridge, which is more than can be said for medium priced drill presses, and it can also mill templates and more - I just finished milling a radiused press press insert from glass filled nylon.

[GuitarGuy]

Don't forget that a small milling/boring machine can do double duty as a drill press if you don't have one. My dad recently bought a Clarke Metal worker milling machine which I use a lot - it has enough reach to drill stud holes for a bridge, which is more than can be said for medium priced drill presses, and it can also mill templates and more - I just finished milling a radiused press press insert from glass filled nylon.

Not to mention perfect tuner holes, perfect templates, radiuses, etc. i have a jig that i use to make necks on the mill. It allows you to remove and replace the neck blank on the mill for different operations and still have it centered and parallel to the X and Y axis......no justification for a mill is needed.

Oh and yeah will do on the play by play Mickguard.

[Mattia]

Hmm....I have a drill press, but it's not a very good one. Might as well sell it and get a larger mill, right? Right?

[GuitarGuy]

There's a guy here on ebay selling chunks of aluminum --AU4G, what ever that is...

Its just a different grade. Some is cast some is cold rolled, aircraft grade etc. There's a whole website i found on casting a while back. http://www.buildyouridea.com/

I think the melting temp is about 1300 deg so a foundry is needed in some capicitance. But this guy has some wicked ideas on making inexpensive molds with a nice finish.

Hmm....I have a drill press, but it's not a very good one. Might as well sell it and get a larger mill, right? Right?

Bingo! You will not regret it.

[marksound]

On my dad's last hot rod, he made several aluminimum* parts using a hacksaw, files, sandpaper and emery cloth. I couldn't figure out why he'd do it all by hand since he had been a machinist for years, but he said it wasn't that hard.

*Okie spelling

[Mickguard]

[There's a whole website i found on casting a while back. http://www.buildyouridea.com/

Already been there

It's definitely something I can see myself getting interested in later on. For now, if it's possible to shape the part I want using tools, I think I'll stick with that.

Can someone post a link to the milling machine you're talking about? I was in the market for a drill press, but if there's a better tool out there, I'd be interested.

[jer7440]

Here you go. Pick your poison. All different sizes, and all different prices.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/mach-specs.aspx?key=480

I know grizzly is in the U.S. and I have no idea what their international shipping would be, but this will at least give you a picture to look at.

[Mattia]

[There's a whole website i found on casting a while back. http://www.buildyouridea.com/

Already been there

It's definitely something I can see myself getting interested in later on. For now, if it's possible to shape the part I want using tools, I think I'll stick with that.

Can someone post a link to the milling machine you're talking about? I was in the market for a drill press, but if there's a better tool out there, I'd be interested.

Mick: I've got a dutch website:

http://www.buitelaar.nl/comasy/templates/C...nes%20&catid=28

The category you want is 'freesmachines', just look around at the various models, should give you a rough idea of prices and options.

[soapbarstrat]

Not to mention perfect tuner holes, perfect templates, radiuses, etc. i have a jig that i use to make necks on the mill. It allows you to remove and replace the neck blank on the mill for different operations and still have it centered and parallel to the X and Y axis......no justification for a mill is needed.

Probably a darn good tool for doing some, if not all, of that stuff, but most of us can do many of those things with tools we already have. Like, I recently started milling aluminum (speak English or die) for the first time with a router, and regular 2 flute carbide bit, to make some 'under the strings' radius gauges. Trust me, the radius is perfect.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v398/soa...s_gauge3061.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v398/soa...lfgang3061a.jpg

You'd think I'd have a milling machine by now, with the endless tools and jigs I make, but I think what has scared me away are all the milling machine "bits" that I'm just not familiar with. Makes me become more clever with the tools I already know well.

[GuitarGuy]

Enco, grizzly, craftex, they all make various sizes. Buy the biggest you can afford.

this is mine

Mill

[Daniel Sorbera]

I'll take this one.

[Setch]

This is the mill I have: http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/index.h...tml&CatalogBody

My dad replaced the plastic gear chain with 2 aluminium pulleys and a round belt, so it run faster than originally intended, albeit without so much control over the gearing. Even so, the electric speed control is enough for all the jobs I've done, and the extra speed at the hight end lets me use it with tiny burrs and regular router cutters.

[Mickguard]

I'll take this one.

Yeah, you guys are just trying to get me in trouble with the wife, admit it.

"Honey, you know that new refrigerator you've been wanting? Well...you know...with my new 2000 euro mini-mill, I'll be able to make you one."

[Mr Alex]

I could be wrong here, but I heard something recently about aluminium burning at a lower temperature than it melts, and is quite dangerous, so if you are considering casting it, do a little research in safety stuff first. There is an aluminium smelter down south in my country, I dont remember the method it uses to melt the aluminium, but I know the metal is in an inert environment. And I also know the largest power plant in my country powers that smelter only.

Mr A

edit: I did a quick bit of research, the aluminium burning must be a side effect of this electricity intensive method used in my country, from what I can see it melts at 660 celsius, and you'll be fine.

Edited May 15, 2006 by Mr Alex

[Mickguard]

I could be wrong here, but I heard something recently about aluminium burning at a lower temperature than it melts, and is quite dangerous, so if you are considering casting it, do a little research in safety stuff first. There is an aluminium smelter down south in my country, I dont remember the method it uses to melt the aluminium, but I know the metal is in an inert environment. And I also know the largest power plant in my country powers that smelter only.

Mr A

edit: I did a quick bit of research, the aluminium burning must be a side effect of this electricity intensive method used in my country, from what I can see it melts at 660 celsius, and you'll be fine.

Well, I don't think you're completely wrong --one of the sites I came across was discussing melting down aluminum cans, and he says that they do indeed have a tendency to burn if you don't do it right. Don't know about the danger part --although I'm sure it helps to wear the proper protection.

But I think I'll just hire marksound's dad to whittle me up some aluminimum...

[Simo]

I would definitely go with a mill for small, precise parts like a bridge. Although I'm sure there's several methods of casting alloy, some better than others, in my experience (I used to restore and polish alloy motorbike parts) cast alloy is a nightmare to get to a smooth finish ready for powder coating/plating etc.