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Duplicarver Parts


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Duff, just so you know, I found this place. They have great deals on linear bearings and solid/hollow polished rails. I'm not familiar with many different designs of duplicarvers, but it seems like most people lean towards somewhere near 3/4" rails/bearing. Now, that might be with hollow rods. So you might be able to get away with 1/2" bearings if you used solid rods. I can't say for sure. One way or another, I think I'll end up going with that site's 20mm bearings/rods. At very little extra cost, it seems worth it.

peace,

russ

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's pretty straightforward. Just look at pictures of them online and design your own, there's not much to them. The only thing that you have to know that isn't obvious to everyone is that the bearings are roller bearings, but you could substitute those with something else if you really wanted to.

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First rule of pg, no hand feeding the animals! Here's a site that sells linear bearings at a very reasonable price: http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?...ategory_Code=LM . By the way, I thought you should know that unless you happen to be this company(which is doubtfull looking at your avitar), the name "rsguitars" is already taken. They make only red specials, believe it or not.

EDIT: haha, i linked to that already in my first reply. rs, if you look at the 2nd link tirapop posted, that should give you a good enough idea.

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Someone had offered me a pair of porter cable routers for a reasonable price, so I figured I'd try one of those first. I think they're either 1.5 or 2hp. If that proves to be too weak, I'll buy porter cable's 3.25hp "speedmatic" router. I think bit and stylus choice will prove to be very critical. I'm going to try 1/2," 3/4" roundnose bits along with some matching aluminum stylus'(I'll be using a chuck to hold the stylus').

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Just go with a bullnose bit. See if you can get something like a 1/2" bit and a 1/2" rod milled to match the tip at a machine shop. That's what I'll be doing(will probably get a 3/4" bit and stylus as well). Did you order the parts from that bearing site I listed? I need to order my parts as well. So many jigs/tools to build, so little time.

peace,

russ

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A bullnose is about as universal as they come for this application. There's another type of bit that's almost a full ball shape(as opposed to the halfround shape of a bullnose), but I'd say it's unnecessary. A bullnose will be good for both concave nd convex carving applications. Don't forget that whatever shape bit you get, you have to make a stylus to match it. So that's a consideration. Wooden stylus' would probably be fine, but I plan to have some aluminum ones made as extra assurance. Oh, and if you're planning on duplicating some necks with this, might I suggest you waste most of the neck wood with a 3/4" roundover bit first to reduce the wear on your bullnose bits?

peace,

russ

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If you flipped either the stylus or the router over you could make male and female parts, but you'd need a very fine bit and stylus to get tight fitting pieces. A 1/2" bull nose bit and stylus would leave a gap.

GBT

Edited to add that you'd need another table, inverted, up top for that setup to work, and it would need to be perfectly parallel to the under table.

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