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Wezv's New Batch


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I like everything about this bass :D

keep up the good work!

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Hi Wez,

Nice work on the singlecut bass mate,good luck with it.I totally understand how you feel when you go into a build and try new things out.

Later,

Robbie.

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Wez, could you explain how the cover and pickup fit with each other? How do you adjust pickup height, how does the cover stay on?

Thanks in advance,

Brian

Pickup hieght will be adjusted like on most basses, i just havn't drilled the holes for the screws yet.

I cheated slightly when i made these pickup covers. I basically glued strips of wood to each side of the pickup to increase the size, then i glued the maple on top. Usually i would rather have removable rings.

Should be some more progress on this thing in the next few days, i just have to come up with a bass headstock, get the neck join sorted properly and carve the neck.

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Thanks for the reply Wez,

So do you make holes through the covers to poke the screwdriver through to adjust the pickup (and the cover stays still) or do you put the screws through the cover so the screw heads stay on top and the cover moves with the pickup?

Thanks

Brian.

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HOTT!

can i ask why you use wenge accent veneers? the pics look great;but black,

is it thick enough to see the grain?; or is it readilly available?

perhaps it adds that extra punch?

i use dyed pear for all my accent lines and i'm interested in your reason;

i was thinkin about using 'wood'(besides the dyed stuff) veneers for accent lines, but when i use them on heels and headstocks (pizza box variety veneers;not big enough for body) i find they chip alot easier when shaping; i guess it would be a grain tearout; and what sucks is having to fill a subtle line because the sleekness is gone;

just curiuos;

Edited by low end fuzz
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I use wenge because it is about 1/10th the price of ebony veneer. I also find that the dyed veneerd i have used in the past have had a greyish tinge to them when they are sanded and this didnt always go away when finished, the wenge will be almost black when its finished with just a little bit of grain showing when close up. I dont believe it would significantly effect the sound, it just looks cool!!

Heres a photo of the first time i tried the wenge and maple lines on a body:

th_17_0012.jpg

Thumbnail

Wenge is very splintery so it can tear out quite badly. I tend to sand to final dimensions to reduce the possibility of it ripping out

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heres some more pics of the bass, i have just cut out the headstock shape and rough carved the neck, it still needs to go a bit skinnier yet. They show the wenge stripes a bit better!!

07_08_06_1521.jpg

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Just got some new kittens which are distracting me from building. Meet Sid and Nancy :D :

th_04_08_06_1720.jpg

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OK, the body is about done. I have wet it with spirits to hopefully show what it will look like when finished. I finally have some pictures that show the lacewood on the back!!, and the colours a bit better on these.

14_08_06_1415.jpg

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th_14_08_06_1416.jpg

I dont usually go for straight flame in a top but i thought it would suit this shape well

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  • 2 weeks later...

Really like that neck joint and as you said interesting to see how others solve the same problem. Having looked at that I might get away with a bolt on for the 4 but it would be touch and go if there would be enough space for the thumb on the back of the neck.

I see we share the same taste in accent lines.

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That bass is looking fantastic!

Kittens are cool too :D

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those are amazing, but I do have one question being that I am relatively new to building, how do you guys get the laminates in your tops and sometimes in the neck so thin?...

The veneer I buy. The other laminates are sized using a planer or drum sander.

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Thanks for the compliments guys.

I will try and get some better pictures of the neck join, i am quite happy that the upper fret access is actually good now.

Accent lines seem to be turning into a popular feature around here. I just buy my veneer. The maple through the body is sold as contructional veneer and the wenge is normal veneer thickness.

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Anyone remember me mentioning a 4th guitar in this batch. Its finally under way and quite a bits been done. I am using this one to teach my cousin how to build, he's spraying for me at the moment so i owe him. He payed for all the parts so we will split the profit when it sells.

here she is:

Burl maple top with wenge and maple accent lines as per usual at the moment

03_09_06_1730.jpg

swamp ash back with maple and wenge cetre strip:

th_03_09_06_1736.jpg

End grain:

th_03_09_06_1731.jpg

shame you wont see this:

th_03_09_06_1733.jpg

The neck is left over from the bass, i.e. 3-peice flamed maple with wenge accent lines.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Heres a neck i have just carved fro the trem equipped guitar. Its birdseye maple neck and spliced on headstock with wenge veneer in the splice. Ziracote fretboard doublebound with boxwood and ebony. Hot-rod truss rod and dual CF rods.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/12_09_06_1934.jpg

You can see the routes for the CF bars and truss rod that will be under the nut. I have my truss rod adjustment at the heel but that little gap under the nut will come in very handy if i ever need to remove the rod, it should push straight out.

12_09_06_1935.jpg

Still need to get the accent line smartened up a bit but i love this maple

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*whistles* Wow, what a nice burl! Very nice and woody and shapely. I'd also like to commend you on your skill at utilizing accent lines. They really compliment the whole piece. I take it this is going to be a string-through, seeing as I don't see stopbar holes anywhere. Pardon if this has already been mentioned.

On a similar note, there's quite a large tree RIGHT outside my dorm hall. It's big, tall, wide, and VERY burl-y. I just don't know what kind of tree it be.

And the guitar builder (nay, amateur guitar hobbyist) in me wants to sneak outside late at night. And chop it down. And carve it up. And haul it away.

I just have an inkling that someone will get mad at me :D It's too bad, really.

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