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Well Finally, My First Build.


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So that is why we drilled holes in our wood :D

It does kind of make sense now that I read it, thanks for that info. We had the problem of the blade going off quite a bit sawing the proto wings, so this is a relieve to hear.

And yes zebrawood can be very good looking wood. It looks really good with the fretboardwood we choose as well.

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  • 4 weeks later...

It's been a while but we've done some more work on the basses. We glued the necks, which turned out really well. Plus we roughcut the wings, the hardware came in and had some practise routing in the proto.

Here's one of the necks.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n191/Ne...es/DSCF1502.jpg

Bass A, this is a real looker I must say. We arranged it so that the grain in the zebra and the fingerboard kind of blend into each other on the bass wing.

DSCF1508.jpg

The whole thing

Another shot

And bass B, the zebrano on this one couldn't be more different.

All of it

Enjoy and thanks,

Maurits.

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yeah the sanding is going to take donkey's years but most we are planning to route off most of the excess with a template following router bit, then fine sand it either by hand or with StewMac's Robosander which I recently bought. goign to use the robosander on the neck anyway with a template to get a smooth taper on it after (band)sawing the rough taper.

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  • 3 months later...

so after a long time, finally some more progress on these basses! we have a rough taper cut, my god that maple is hard. we also had to make a new neck template after deciding what we made was huge for a 4-stringer. we did a whole lot of other stuff aswell but we'll put some new pics up soon!

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DSCF1508.jpg

I do see an issue with the dilling of the holes, though. I understand the "stress relief on jigsaw blade" part, and that it's easier to make the jigsaw go around the corner, but when it comes to routing final shape down....I see an issue with tear-outs. These big blobs of wood (in between the holes) are prone to creating tear-outs. That would keep me from using this method.

Would love to see how the Zebrano looks like when sanded into shape.

Seen that Zebrano is quarter sawn,.....flat sawn would have created an awesome pattern.....curious how this quarter-sawn wood will end up looking.

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It's been my experience with Robosanders that you shouldn't use them to get right up to the final shape; the surfaces of the sanding drums aren't perfect and there is the possibility of sanding into the body very slightly beyond the template-following bearing (especially with larger grit drums). No danger of tearout though, so there are definite positives and negatives as opposed to routing.

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thanks for the heads up RGGR. I will see how the off cuts react to routing as I have plenty, I'll check how hard it is to sand the zebra flush, because then I might just have to robosand the blobs out and then clean up with a router. if that doesn't work we're rather stuck...

Naw, I don't see a big issue here --just use your router to take down each ridge individually --make small passes to bring it down to the edge of the drill holes, then move on to the next one. Once you've got them pretty consistent, you can use your template/follower bit. Shouldn't be any problem with tearout. It'll take a lot less time than sanding.

If your router came with a collar guide, put that on, that will help prevent you from routing into the template.

I usually use a jigsaw to rough cut the body, I'm going to try the drilled hole idea next time.

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Routing it slowly but surely we'll get there I think. I wasn't planning to rout it to final shape in one go.

Mickguard, if you do I wouldn't drill as many holes a we did as the more you drill, the bigger pain in the backside it is routing I think.

Progress on this thing really is going at a snail's pace at the moment, We both have exams coming up in a week and after that I hope we can work on them more and finally get these beasts up and running.

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  • 1 month later...

well we've done some work and now the pictures are up! Maurits thought of somehting nice, to inlay the veneer in the back of the board the you'll see the lines from the side thus keeping the top of the board effectively unlined and undisturbed, and it should make for a more consistant overall tone across the board. I'm not sure what I'll do yet as the lines do look rather snazzy...

a freshly slotted board

DSCF2048.jpg

veneer being glued in the slots

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n191/Ne...el/DSCF2050.jpg

nut slots routed, 6mm wide in which we're going to stick an ebony nut made from the cutoff from the fretboard

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n191/Ne...el/DSCF2038.jpg

most of the excess veneer removed, though as you can see there are some that need reslotting and a new veneer putting in as it went wrong...

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n191/Ne...el/DSCF2056.jpg

we have headstocks!

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n191/Ne...es/DSCF1997.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n191/Ne...es/DSCF1976.jpg

Edited by DanielM
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  • 3 months later...

Allright, it's been a while but here's an update on the basses!

after being on Hiatus for a while due to finals etc. we finally got cracking again.

Bass 2 has the Perimeter routed and the roundover is on there too which makes a world of difference. bass 1 is currently being routed and and after a slight run in with some tearout I'm going to finish it up today and see what I can do to rescue it.

Bass II:

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n191/Ne...II/P1012606.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n191/Ne...II/P1012605.jpg

P1012604.jpg

as some of you will notice there is some router burn going on there but nothing some sanding won't cure I think, and we had some perculiarity surrounding the roundover bit which maybe somebody can explain. going along the grain it all went fine but going across the grain (end grain etc) it was leaving a ledge which would make you think it was set too deep. so we set it more shallow and did it thus and then we'll sand it down to a nice smooth edge.

The tearout on Bass 1 is not as dramatic a I first suspected after some cleaning I think it will be salvagable with only minor design changes.

The Tearout on Bass 1 and it on the bench with the template (which is also slightly different from bass 2's as a slight mishap in the cutting called for it.)

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n191/Ne...0I/P1012608.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n191/Ne...0I/P1012609.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Its looking very nice! I see all those pockets, thats the stuff you hate to see, but I think it adds character and I bet you could do something cool to make them less noticeable, although they really aren't bad because of the figuring of the zebra wood. I am working with some now and there is one area above where the lower horn will be that I am worried about. The plank I got this piece from had quite a few nasty little checks that went from the face right throught the back, diagonally. I'm hoping that my lower horn will be short enough to avoid this area, 95% sure it will be.

How have you liked the zebrawood so far, would you use it again? Do you have any idea if a thin piece would bend alright? Best of luck to you, keep the pics coming and keep up the excellent work! J

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Thanks for the compliments guys.

About the resin pockets, yeah, they do add character. The ones on the side of the upper bout could cause a problem though. They are most likely going to show on the front and back if we add a traditional elbow contour and tummy cut, which when it gets flakey will look and feel bad.

I seem to remember Drak filling resin pockets on some of his Telecasters, but does anyone else have some advice on how best to do this? Any advice would be greatly apreciated.

Thanks.

Edit: jmrentis, I quite like zebrawood. Works well enough. Would I use it again? I might somewhere in the future, I love the looks of it. It is heavy though, and I'll have to see what it sounds like.

Edited by Maurits
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