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Thin Necks

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Naturally I had to get the new guy at my local lumberyard. When I asked to have my neck blank thickness sanded to its final size, he only sanded one side. Now Im left with a laminated neck blank that is exactly 19mm thick, and flat on only 1 side. Now I read that I could glue a veneer on after the other side is flat to make up the diference, but how will that affect the scarf joint, unless I wait till after i do the scarf joint. I could just have the other side sanded and work with a neck blank that is only 18mm thick( just guessing here) I will be using the LMII 2way truss rod so its not as deep a route as the Hot Rod I planned on using.

Will a real thick fingerboard help? Am I shooting myself in the foot by doing that? I could also use a veneer to make up the difference, but then will you notice the veneer under the fingerboard(bois de rose). I know in theory, one of these solutions will work, but what about in the real world, where I will be routing the trussrod channel, and the bit will come lose and wreck it anyways. Should I just start over and when I go back to the lumberyard, break the old blank over the guys head?!? It wont acomplish anything, but I will feel better, and then I can still use it for a practice scarf joint

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19mm allows you to shape the hell out of it :-) It would probably be enough to rout a rod in the back and fix a fillet to make an all-maple neck!!

I started a thread re: Stewmac rods and the amount of wood you can leave from the bottom of the rod rout to the outside world under the neck. I'm sticking to 3-4mm for harder woods, and 5mm for "softer" woods like mahogany although I'm sure they'll survive happily at 4mm.

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