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no that makes sense, and that was pretty much how i was expecting id have to do it. to be honest, im going to try to get the wood thats on ebay pretty soon, and try and make a start. the only problem i'll have is that i cant really afford to be buying wood for the neck, and id want to route the neck pocket before i start any carving. and its better to cut a hole to fit the neck rather than building a neck to fit a hole. damn.

the maple on ebay is 1" thick by the way. im guessing this wouldnt be thick enough fro a real prs carve plus the wave, but it'll do. and its one piece too which is good.

EDIT: here's a 4+2 design with the same kind of wave as the body. any thoughts?

061103_135907.jpg

Edited by hooglebug
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It's not wise to mount tuners backwards because it causes the gears not to mesh as well. With a tuner in its normal position, the tuning peg gear is pushed against the worm gear from the tension in the string. Reversing the tuner causes the string tension to push the tuning peg gear away from the worm gear. Some people argue that this wears out the tuner prematurely, but the big concern is that you may be introducing some play into the system which could cause unstable tuning. Look into sperzel tuners. You can take individual ones apart and turn righties into lefties.

peace,

russ

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well, today iv bought the maple top from ebay, so its going to get started soon. can anyone recommend any good stains? and would i need to protect the stained top with sanding sealer or something else before spraying it? i'll probably use acrylic to finish it

EDIT: heres a couple of logos. im liking the one on the left better. this would be the twelth fret inlay, with the 'af' in white pearl and the background swirl a bit darker. the headstock logo would be the same but smaller and (maybe) without the background swirl

logoaf.jpg

Edited by hooglebug
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i agree. 1st is better.

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i got the wood for the neck and fingerboard - and got a great deal! i got it from david dyke like the last one. they usually send out rough cut strat or tele shapes, depending what you want. but i asked if there was anyway i could have a wider blank as i was doing a 3-a-side. he said it would cost the same so i paid up and what i got was a piece of wood wide enough (with some careful cutting) for two necks. bargain! the ebony for the fingerboard is very stripey, but it still looks pretty cool. i may keep it like it is or i may stain it black. i'll just have to see. after this post im going out to route for the neck, pickups and control cavity, then i can start thinking about the top carving. anyway, heres some pics

to show how thick the top is

the dark bit on the lower bout is the edge of the maple (it just wasnt quite wide enough), but i think i can get away with doing a mini strat type arm contour

EDIT: todays work

full length

Pb151243.jpg

Edited by hooglebug
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rough carved the top today. i started off using chisels, then a few hours in having not got very far, suddenly remembered reading about people using small angle grinders to do top carves. so i did that instead. hehe. i'll have to finish it off with chisels tomorrow, then lots of sanding. but its coming along.

top carve 1

top carve 2

Pb191244.jpg

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its cos i cheated and used an angle grinder to do it. shhh dont tell anyone

theres a few little bits i'll have to finish off with chisels tho, and lots of sanding

What kind of disk were you using? :D People normally use about 60 grit flap disks (me too) and it sure didn't burn the wood at all. Was the disk really worn out or something?

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