buredf Posted December 5, 2006 Report Share Posted December 5, 2006 hi all, what type of clear coat should i get to achieve a satin finish on my neck? i am using deft clear coat for the body and headstock but i want to do a satin finish on the neck? thanks -domenick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanb Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 The obvious answer would be satin Deft. However, there are lots of options ... nitro lacquer with flattener, an oil finish, Tru Oil, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al heeley Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 tru-oil wiped on with a rag, allow to dry a day then apply again. When fully dry, buff with scotchbrite pad: lovely hard, protected satin neck with a really nice fast feel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 tru oil or shellac are the two finishes I'll use on my necks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buredf Posted December 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 tru oil or shellac are the two finishes I'll use on my necks. thanks guys! im ordering tru oil as we speak for the neck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer X Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 Anybody else try the Minwax Wipe-On Poly? I ised it on my latest neck, and was rather happy with the results, so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 (edited) I'd like to see some close-up pics of the *wipe-on poly finishes* (gloss and satin) on a fret-board, if anyone knows where I can see those. I just put a super-glue finish on a scrap fret-board, and I'm wondering how a wipe-on finish compares, looks-wise. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v398/soa...lue_finish2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v398/soa...lue_finish3.jpg Yeah, I know it ain't satin, but funny thing is, I went over an area with steel wool, and it made that area into a nice *tough* satin finish (area is too small for a decent photo, so take my word for it) Edited December 9, 2006 by soapbarstrat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuitarMaestro Posted December 11, 2006 Report Share Posted December 11, 2006 @soapbarstrat: You really did that finish with superglue? At least here in Germany super glue is sold in very small bottles and quite expensive. You'd have to pay a lot to finish a neck with it. And I am suprised by the mirror look you got with it as well. Maybe it is a special kind of super glue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted December 11, 2006 Report Share Posted December 11, 2006 Marcel, super glue goes a long, long way - one of those little bottles would finish several necks. I'm also impressed by the smooth finish - what did you apply it with? I always end up with the odd smear or fingermark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuitarMaestro Posted December 11, 2006 Report Share Posted December 11, 2006 Marcel, super glue goes a long, long way - one of those little bottles would finish several necks. Wow....I did not post on these boards for about 1 year and people still know my real name? I never would have thought that you could finish a whole fretboard or more with a little bottle of super glue. I am curious how he applied it as well.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted December 12, 2006 Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 (edited) Yes, it's only super-glue over bare wood. It's mostly the next thickness up from water-thin. Although for the final coat, I mixed some water-thin in with the thicker glue. I'm also amazed at how glossy I got it .Got that way from going all the way up to 2000 grit, then switching over to some finer "papers". Didn't use any machine buffing device. Took some elbow gease. Still had plenty of glue left in the bottle after doing that scrap board (1/2 ouce bottle of glue, $3.00 at hobby shop). I used to like oil finishes best, but the super-glue finish gives some good options, including just having a super-thin coat, which hardens the surface of the wood, then when fine-sanded, it's a really nice satin finish. If it doesn't feel "satiny" enough, steel wool seems to take care of that, even on the thicker finish. I've heard that Eric Clapton's necks have a super-glue finish. Don't know any details, but would like to. Edited December 14, 2006 by soapbarstrat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buredf Posted December 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2006 hi guys, its come to my attention, should i be filling the grain of the wood with a sanding sealer on the neck before i apply the tru oil or do i just go with the tru oil right on the wood? -dom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted December 14, 2006 Report Share Posted December 14, 2006 if you want to fill the grain, fill with a filler, or do the 'wetsand with oil' thing; apply oil, start sanding, making a 'slurry' with the oil and the sandpaper, which then gets pushed into the pores. Personally, I really quite like the pores on oil finished guitars, so I don't bother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GGW Posted December 16, 2006 Report Share Posted December 16, 2006 That superglue finish is very interesting. Can you provide any more details? How do you actually apply it? How is it's longevity? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted December 17, 2006 Report Share Posted December 17, 2006 I spread it on with flexible plastic strips. I will assume it will hold up every bit as well as a catalyzed poly finish. I have also sprayed water-thin super-glue through a modified airbrush. Might go back to that, but I don't like the hectic tear-down I have to do with the airbrush right after spraying just one quick coat. But, good thing I held onto that old badger I bought for $14.00 when I was 12 (didn't ruin it yet, either) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted December 17, 2006 Report Share Posted December 17, 2006 If you plan to use that stuff then I recommend the proper safety precautions. Wear eye protection, latex gloves and the proper respirator equipped with a carbon filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted December 17, 2006 Report Share Posted December 17, 2006 I wore a good 3M respirator, but my eyes started to burn. I wanted to get the hell out of the paint room long before I was actually able to get out of there ! I'll be the first to admit, it's some crazy stuff to be doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted December 17, 2006 Report Share Posted December 17, 2006 Yeah, you definitely need some sort of air flow AWAY from you when messing around with larger that normal quantities of CA. And remember that CA cures by a chemical reaction with moisture in the air (moisture-induced polymerization) and the surface its applied to, ie. monomers binding into a polymer. So make sure your surface is dry and humidity is low or the stuff will kick in before you get a chance to work it into the grain. You can buy CA glues that react slower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted December 17, 2006 Report Share Posted December 17, 2006 And imagine what kind of fumes you get (including visual), if the wood had recently been wiped with accelerator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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