Unrealize Posted December 15, 2006 Report Share Posted December 15, 2006 When I was cutting my pearl, I found that for me, the easies was really just to print the design on paper, and use spray glue to put it on the pearl, and then cut it... I think it worked just fine, and now I was thinking perhaps I could apply the same technique when routing the fingerboard? Perhaps I would set the paper on fire, hehe... Well, it is just a thought, but it would seem like a way easier method of transferring the design to the fingerboard, rather than to scribe it on. Alright, just airing an idea here... Cheers!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted December 15, 2006 Report Share Posted December 15, 2006 (edited) But what happens if you dont cut it EXACTLY as per the paper outline, when cutting the pearl?? Then you have a hole in the fretboard which doesnt match? Why not just scribe around the finish pearl piece, ensuring the fretboard cutout can be IDENTICAL?? Edited December 15, 2006 by Maiden69 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unrealize Posted December 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2006 But what happens if you dont cut it EXACTLY as per the paper outline, when cutting the pearl?? Then you have a hole in the fretboard which doesnt match? Why not just scribe around the finish pearl piece, ensuring the fretboard cutout can be IDENTICAL?? Well, it might be a little design related if it would be a good practice or not, but as I have it now, the pearl is ligned up nicely to the print, and then while routing, just take it slow, and testfit as I go. I don't see a reason why it should be less accurate than scribing by hand... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted December 15, 2006 Report Share Posted December 15, 2006 But what happens if you dont cut it EXACTLY as per the paper outline, when cutting the pearl?? Then you have a hole in the fretboard which doesnt match? Why not just scribe around the finish pearl piece, ensuring the fretboard cutout can be IDENTICAL?? Thing is, if you're me, it won't. I'd rather have a cavity that's a little bit tight (which usually happens when I stick my pattern onto the substrate and route based on that), because I can't scribe around the cut out pieces as tightly as I can route to a line, and then widen where needed. Larry Robinson uses this method quite often as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unrealize Posted December 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2006 I think I will stick to my idea then, and see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTU 7's. Posted December 16, 2006 Report Share Posted December 16, 2006 Try with some hot metal, like a good cutter very very hot, and try to cut it, but you can pass, so be carefull. Or the other thing maybe can be... the original use a saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted December 16, 2006 Report Share Posted December 16, 2006 What!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unrealize Posted December 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2006 Setch, my though exactly... What? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weezerboy Posted December 16, 2006 Report Share Posted December 16, 2006 erm... i think he means something like a soldering iron/knife hybrid for use on plastic materials...so using heat to cut through the plastic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted December 16, 2006 Report Share Posted December 16, 2006 Yes, but that has *nothing* to do with the subject, which is how to map the cavity onto the fretboard, not how to route it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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