peterhanson Posted December 22, 2006 Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 Here are the pictures that I promised in my other thread. I have been working on this build for quite a while in my school woods class. the body has been almost all the way rough cut, but I didn't cut the horn out because I plan on sanding the whole back side with a surface sander so i don't want to have the horn break at all. I also began rough sanding the routed parts on the side, but haven't gained much progress. I'm on break this week so I can hopefully get a leg up on this build. I'm mostly done with the shaping of the back of the neck, but i still need to work on the fretboard, what with sanding and fretting. On the headstock I patched up some of the sanding divots that i made with the sanding drum using some wood putty... now i know it looks like crap, but i'm going to put a mahogany veneer over it so it'll turn out better than it is right now... hopefully. http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c10/pete...on/PC220007.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c10/pete...on/PC220005.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c10/pete...on/PC220003.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c10/pete...on/PC220001.jpg COMMENTS, CRITICISM WELCOME!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterhanson Posted December 31, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2006 update: cut the rest of the body out and began sanding. I'm think i'm gonna have to end up routing the outside of the body in order to get the straight edge i want because the palm sander rounds the edges over. i also bent the veneer for the headstock with a curling iron. Before my dad suggested using a curling iron i tried a desk lamp and a jig system with ruberbands and clamps and it was a pain setting it up and in the end it never even worked, so the moral is.... use a curling iron. pics of progress http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c10/pete...on/DSCN0025.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c10/pete...on/DSCN0023.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c10/pete...on/DSCN0018.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterhanson Posted February 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 Over the past two days I've routed the control cavity, the pickup cavities and the neck pocket. Unfortunately, i routed the neck pocket a little big. there's about a millimeter on the left and right side of the neck. Is this gonna be a problem? and if so, would i just put in two little shims to fix it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 Over the past two days I've routed the control cavity, the pickup cavities and the neck pocket. Unfortunately, i routed the neck pocket a little big. there's about a millimeter on the left and right side of the neck. Is this gonna be a problem? and if so, would i just put in two little shims to fix it? If you leave the pocket wider than the neck, the neck can wander to one side. It can be disconcerting at a gig to look down and see your high E string no longer over the frets at the top, especially if you are coming up to a solo, it has happened to me with an Ibanez Les Paul copy! You can fix it without too much drama if you cut two bits of wood about 4 mm thick and slightly wider than the neck pocket and glue and clamp them to either side of the neck pocket. Then sand down on the top to level with the body and route again to the perfect size. You will have a very neat fix and a stable neck. What technique did you use to route the neck pocket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterhanson Posted February 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 What technique did you use to route the neck pocket? I used the rails-along-the-side-of-the-neck method that mickguard used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterhanson Posted February 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2007 here's my latest progress here's the neck joint, you can kind of see the gap on the bass side of the neck pocket http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c10/pete...on/DSCN0182.jpg another shot of the body http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c10/pete...on/DSCN0180.jpg two shots of the headstock veneer http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c10/pete...on/DSCN0183.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c10/pete...on/DSCN0184.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted February 14, 2007 Report Share Posted February 14, 2007 Lovin' every minute of it! Great stuff! I'm glad you've stayed the course with your design... it's gonna rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted February 14, 2007 Report Share Posted February 14, 2007 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_ado Posted February 14, 2007 Report Share Posted February 14, 2007 wat id do is mark our the center line on the guitar then the center line on ur neck templete linda then up clamp it and away u go thats wat i did anyways Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted February 14, 2007 Report Share Posted February 14, 2007 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_ado Posted February 14, 2007 Report Share Posted February 14, 2007 mmmm i do templetes but instead of useing a ball bearing bit i make the templete big enough to put the whole router in it then u just line up the heel line and the center line and ur ready to route worked really well wat did u do free hand??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted February 14, 2007 Report Share Posted February 14, 2007 (edited) That gap looks tiny, so a shim should do it, I am wondering if you could fill the top of the gap with clear two pack, has anyone stuck baking paper on the neck so the two pack won't stick to that then poured in the resin for a perfect clear join? The guitar looks great, the carve is shmicko. Edited February 15, 2007 by Muzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterhanson Posted June 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 so it's been too long, but i've gotten back to the ol' guitar and i have a question. I bought a pre slotted fingerboard from stew mac and was wondering, do you have to sand the fingerboard down to to a certain thickness or is it dependent upon the guitar that the neck is going on to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 It depends on the thickness of the neck and the depth of the neck pocket. I made mine a total of 1" thick (neck+fretboard's highest point) at the neck heel (using no neck angle and a Strat type hardtail bridge). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterhanson Posted June 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 I also bought a pre-fabricated nut. Is this going to affect it as well? because when i put the nut in the fingerboard, I eyed it up and it did not look like the string action would be high enough. Edit: never mind, found the answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterhanson Posted June 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2008 So, I've finally gotten back at the guitar, and this is a quick mock up. I've only cut the pickguard; I still need to route out the spot for the neck pickup. The fret dot markers are only placed on the neck, I'm hoping to install them today. Things are coming together. http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-...211007_8865.jpg http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-...211008_9178.jpg http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-...211009_9436.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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