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Jet 14" Bandsaw For Resawing


cherokee6

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I'm checking out a used Jet 14" Gold series bandsaw. It has a 1hp moter and includes a moveable base, fence, miter gauge, riser block and set up, and several timber wolf blades. Asking price is $400. Its in excellent cond. and the rubber tires have been replaced. Seller seems to be a pretty honest guy. He was explaining that he has some trouble using it for resawing as he has problems in constantly adjusting everything. He suggested resawing something not more than 6". He also mentioned it has plenty of power for other applications. He's cut wood like wenge using the timber wolf blade and it cuts thru like butter. He's in the process of upgrading to a more profressional machine. I believe this is a common problem with the standard 14" saws, although one person I spoke with who has an older Delta says he doesn't have too many problems with it. I realize the riser blocks are a selling point to try to make a machine that maybe is not meant to be. Is this a problem only common to Jet machines or the basic 14" machines in general? Can it be rectified using, say, Carter guides or some such aftermarket accessories? Thanks in advance for any helpful input. :D

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There is a learning curve to re-sawing. You do need to have the machine set up very well. Carters are a really great upgrade. I use a 14" with riser block, Carter bearings, After market tension spring, woodslicer blades(timber wolfs are good, but woodslicers are really top notch). I have sliced Mac. Ebony, Zircote, Cocobolo, Purple Heart, Walnut, Maples hard and soft, Pau Ferro, and so on.... For acoustic jumbo backs, archtop wedges, tops and so forth. No worries when set up spot on. I would imagine a larger machine with an automatic feed would be a nice upgrade, but unless you are cutting a huge volume a 14" will get it done just fine. $400 with upgrades and blades sounds like a great price.

Peace,Rich

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Thanks Rich! I was up late (I'm out of town checking on family) and the seller gave me a call. I did a little reseach on the Google forums and picked up some info. The seller did put in new guides but I forgot to ask him which ones (the carter stuff is pretty expensive!). One guy mentioned that the Delta had a beefier and slightly wider set of wheels, the guides weren't as good. etc. Some compliants about the under the table adjustment, etc. Most of the articles in the last few years had pluses and minuses for the Delta and Jet and were basically on a par with each other. I was also considering, if I had to go new, the new Grizzly deluxe model and the General (gotta help Canada out). Having seen the General, it's a nice quality machine. Either way between shipping, or taxes, add ons, etc you're talking at least $700 or more, with a few bucks saved on the Grizzly. But for the amount of woodworking and resawing I plan to be doing, this seems like a great deal. I figured it's about $900 worth of stuff. If I find I don't like it after awhile, I can always sell it and go for something else. Now, I just have to find a way of getting it without alerting the wife! :D

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Yeah, I won't be able to check it til next weekend (he's a 2.5hr drive away), but he has my number and he thinks it won't go quickly. We chatted about the machine for awhile and he sounds like a pretty honest guy, explaining the idiosyncriities of the machine. I think I'm the first guy on the list. If I get it, I'll post a pic! Now I have to draft a friend to use his truck and find some short term storage for it! :D Check craig's list in your area; there are some pretty good deals there.

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Howdy,

I use a Jet 14", riser block etc for resawing and it works just fine if you treat it right. Technique and adjustment is everything, but the single most important thing is to GO SLOW. You are pushing a 6"+ piece of wood thropugh and you need to give it time. The biggest concern is usually blade drift, and for that I recommend a single point fence (i think i reviewed one in here way back). If you go slow enough, you can adjust for drift and come out perfect. i don't even use Carters, just Cool Blocks. A larger machine or even theGeneral may be nice, but hard to say without seeing it. the Delta or Jet are more than enough for the task though.

Another useful thing on the bandsaw or any machine really is those link belts. I have been swapping all of mine out and they really help with smoothness.

Jeff

PS-here's a link to the bandsaw

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMS7200-Bandsaw...e=UTF8&s=hi

PPS-I forgot I also have made a modification to mine. I have installed a 1/4" steel plate underneath the table that stabilizes the table/trunions and almost eliminates any flex. I think i saw it in FWW or something but the guy was using 3/4" ply and loosing that much cutting capacity. I decided to make mine from plate steel, gain the strength and 1/2" more capacity.

Edited by komodo
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Howdy,

I use a Jet 14", riser block etc for resawing and it works just fine if you treat it right. Technique and adjustment is everything, but the single most important thing is to GO SLOW. You are pushing a 6"+ piece of wood thropugh and you need to give it time. The biggest concern is usually blade drift, and for that I recommend a single point fence (i think i reviewed one in here way back). If you go slow enough, you can adjust for drift and come out perfect. i don't even use Carters, just Cool Blocks. A larger machine or even theGeneral may be nice, but hard to say without seeing it. the Delta or Jet are more than enough for the task though.

Another useful thing on the bandsaw or any machine really is those link belts. I have been swapping all of mine out and they really help with smoothness.

Jeff

PS-here's a link to the bandsaw

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMS7200-Bandsaw...e=UTF8&s=hi

PPS-I forgot I also have made a modification to mine. I have installed a 1/4" steel plate underneath the table that stabilizes the table/trunions and almost eliminates any flex. I think i saw it in FWW or something but the guy was using 3/4" ply and loosing that much cutting capacity. I decided to make mine from plate steel, gain the strength and 1/2" more capacity.

Jeff,

I have used cool blocks and they are better than stock. Carters will help with blade drift, and allow for a tighter tolerance(very nice mod.). I don't adjust my stock as it travels through(I really cant because I am usually sawing between .18" and .15"-acoustic sets and soundboards). The feed rate and blade cupping is usually my toughest challenge depending on the wood. A higher rate spring helped a bit with that, but blade sharpness is really the key.

Peace,Rich

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You guys have been great; thanks for the feedback. Looks like I'm going next weekend (haven't told the wife about this yet) :D The owner said he had trouble getting Carters on the saw so he ended up replacing the guides with a new set from Jet. He did put coolblocks in. I think the link belt is a good idea and may get one for the tablesaw, also (I got a great deal on THAT saw: mint cond. 10" Delta with the Unifence, extension table, etc. plus accessories and a 25' ladder thrown in! all for $400 from a guy getting out of the carpentry biz). I ordered the Iturra Design catalog because I've read on some websites that they have great stuff and nice hints and instructions on bandsaws. The new version of the Bandsaw Handbook is coming out in 2 months so I'll wait to get that. I may check into Carters down the road if I think they'll improve performance. I'll try some of the advice on using the saw first. I'll post a pic when I get it. I'm really interested in the support plate mentioned by Komodo. If you can post a pic it would be great. :D

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I'm really interested in the support plate mentioned by Komodo. If you can post a pic it would be great. :D

Ya, you know i looked all over the net for some reference to it and found nothing. . . must have seen it in a FWW. It helps with the aluminum trunions flexing, and the weak knob screw down to hold table square. You basically take off the whole table, trunion assembly, build a plate to screw right onto the saw and then the assembly goes over that. As I mentioned, I used plate steel instead of plywood to only loose 1/4" vs. 3/4" and it's WAY stiffer. Also, you drill a hole into the side of the table, and then use a 1/4-20 hook bolt (like an eyebolt) and hook it into that hole and the screw ened bolts through a hole in the plate. Then you can "pull" the table down to square and lock it. Hard to explain, I'll try to take some pics and find the article.

Jeff

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I'm REALLY PISSED!!!! :D:D The jerk whom was to sell me the saw sold it yesterday! I offered him a deposit and he wouldn't take it, I worked around his schedule to take the 2.5 hr. trip to him this coming weekend and the &@#*^@& sold it!! You think he would've told the guy: "if the other guy doesn't show or want to pay full price, you're next in line??? BUT NOOOOOOOO! He had to be an dishonorable jerk!! B)

OK, I feel better now. :D

The search for another continues.....

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