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Locking Nut?


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i am looking high and low for a floyd style locking nut...black,1 5/8" wide,topmount,with a 14" radius...and i absolutely can not find it.

i know it exists,because i already have one in chrome...i bought it from krazyderek a few years ago,and he no longer runs that business...

every one i have found has been either a 10" radius,or with the radius unlisted...the import 42 mm would work,if it's the right radius,but i can't find anyone who lists it

anyone know this?

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The Stewmac is rear mount. I had ended up buying the StewMac one when I was looking for the same thing, only in chrome. I made bevels on the screw holes with diamond abrasive burrs so top mount wood screws would work.

That was very hard to do, and I don't think I'll ever do it again, but felt I had no choice.

Maybe I had seen some options on Ebay, but didn't trust them (many locking nuts are made of softer metal, and some don't actually have the radius that is advertised.) See if there's still a place on Ebay with a name something like strawberry castle or something like that. They might have had that locking nut. Just don't blame me, if they do say they do, and it ends up being crap. I just don't know.

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what happens if you dont have the correct radius ligned up with your fret board?

the better the match,the better the playability....if everything is perfectly matched(within reason)the guitar will have better action along the length of the fretboard,and the guitar will play like butter...

i originally bought the rear mount from stewmac,and screwed up a neck trying to install it...topmount is the only way to go...

i have found some imports that might be the right specs,but the machining is so godawful poor i can't see using one

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I was just given an OFR with the floyd nut and 2 other lock nuts from other companies (forgot which ones)

Got them put away for a future project.

I'm saying that i have no experience with them yet, but can't you just file the string slots to the radius you want and the string locks will still engage the string properly? I always *assumed* this was the case....

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A properly made Floyd type nut is case hardened steel. Regular file steel can't do jack to it. There are copy nuts (Some Peavey ones, especially) that are so soft, the strings themselves can wear grooves right into the metal.

That's why I had to get a replacement. And the guy at Peavey said " you don't want a nut made of real hard steel, 'cause it will break strings". And of course, I posted that on this forum, and a bozo or two said " Oh yeah, he's probably right about that real hard steel is bad" . :D:D

As much as I hate floyds, I still think if you're using one, it should all be made right, and the crap copies need to be avoided. See, that's the problem, people buy the crap ones, and those companies stay in business, and then the quality stuff gets made in smaller amounts as the years go by.

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you don't want a nut made of real hard steel, 'cause it will break strings".

i think salesmen will say anything.in all my years of floyd usage,i have never had a string break at the nut...and all i use are hardened nuts.they tend to break down where the string leaves the block,behind the saddle.

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