Page_Master Posted October 16, 2003 Report Share Posted October 16, 2003 hello everybody would mixing MOP dust and epoxy to form a MOP glue, that you then scraped over some engraving with fine writing to form logos with fine letters work effectively? or would it look like **** and be a waste of time? Page. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gw_guitars Posted October 16, 2003 Report Share Posted October 16, 2003 Now that's a thought. Sorry that I don't know the answer. If anybody answers they might know the answer to the question: what about mahogany dust and wood glue (transparant off course) Gerard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jehle Posted October 16, 2003 Report Share Posted October 16, 2003 most of the MOP inlays I've seen have always been on dark wood. Typically a mix of wood dust and epoxy is used to fill the gaps. Interesting thought though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saber Posted October 16, 2003 Report Share Posted October 16, 2003 If anybody answers they might know the answer to the question: what about mahogany dust and wood glue (transparant off course) I think epoxy would be a better choice because it retains its volume when it hardens while wood glue shrinks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AlexVDL Posted October 16, 2003 Report Share Posted October 16, 2003 You could use the MOP dust and fill the patterns with it. Then just let some superglue drop on the dust so it will soak it up. After it hardesns you can sand it to match the surface. A friend of mine did it a long time ago. MOP dust with some green glitter dust. It worked out fine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YDoesGodMockMeSo Posted October 16, 2003 Report Share Posted October 16, 2003 I wish I could do intricate things like that. I'd like to put Jackson's crop circle inlays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted October 17, 2003 Report Share Posted October 17, 2003 If you want the glitter of MOP then go for it but remember that the dust is lethal to breath. If you just want colors and I mean whacky ones as well you can get all of the primary colors to mix into epoxy from anyplace that sell's fiberglass resin. Just a dab of this and a dab of that mixed into your resin will give you a custom blended color. That way if you have a very thin route and want red or blue or even plain white your covered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Page_Master Posted October 17, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2003 hi thanx for the help everyone. in theory i knew it was possible as i have seen people do it with ebony dust, why not use mother of pearl to do the same process and effect. i was just wondering if it would look crappy, but by alex's exampler, it looks really nice. i am also aware that MOP dust is lethal. for double precautions i will use gloves and a dust mask - safety glasses are a necessity. but thanx for the warning and tips. Page. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavisCustomGuitars Posted October 26, 2003 Report Share Posted October 26, 2003 I'm new to this website and am finding this a really cool way to learn new tips and tricks. The dust inlay process sounds really cool and I'll have to try it. I run a business "Davis Custom Guitars" and for really fine inlays I use a product that I've only found at InlayUSA.com called Micralone. It is made from real shell products(I think it's a really thin laminate, it looks exactly like real shell once its down or at least I haven't been able to tell the difference) but is only .005" thick (about the thickness of 40 wt. bond paper). You can cut this stuff with and exacto knife or even scissors and get some really fine detail. You just glue it to the headstock or whatever your inlaying and after a couple of coats of Poly/Nitro your done. It doesn't even need an inlay cavity. The coolest part is they sell it tinted if you like. So you can get several variations of colors for a peticular shell. I like real shell products for fretboard inlays myself but for the fine details this stuff can't be beat. I know this isn't the dust inlay process that you all were talking about but it may help with similar projects. Hope this helps with the superfine details you all are after. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazyderek Posted October 26, 2003 Report Share Posted October 26, 2003 lol another brian !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveK Posted October 26, 2003 Report Share Posted October 26, 2003 Is this easy enough to work with that you could do a headstock logo with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clavin Posted October 26, 2003 Report Share Posted October 26, 2003 Hi Guys. Sorry it's been so long since I have been around. I just moved, and my wife is due with our first baby any day now. Things are busy down here! I saw this post and thought I would chime in. On really thin inlays the best method I have found is to start cutting your inlay from the inside of the pattern to out, leaving the back supporting shell material still on. Fill the inside of the intricate design with a piece of wood (cut from the original pattern) that exactly fits, then glue that together. That will then give you the support you need to finish cutting the rest of the intricate pattern from behind. This is the only whay to get real shell involved, and to get the support you need to keep it from breaking. You can always go back and file to make it finer or smoother after it's all been cut out. I hope this makes sense. The idea is to keep the shell supported during cutting at all times by keeping it attched to something else solid at all times. Its more work, but inlay is enough work already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pushead Posted October 27, 2003 Report Share Posted October 27, 2003 If you want the glitter of MOP then go for it but remember that the dust is lethal to breathe. Seriously? Do simple dust masks work, or do you need respirators? Brian, do you mean the fiberglass resin instead of the MOP, or in addition to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted October 27, 2003 Report Share Posted October 27, 2003 Seriously? Do simple dust masks work, or do you need respirators? dust masks work, respirators are much better.......Usually because they cover your face better and worn properly will not allow floating particulates in the air to sneek in under the gasket which hugs your face. Brian, do you mean the fiberglass resin instead of the MOP, or in addition to? No they make pigments for fiberglass resin that are easily mixable and will change the color epoxy if you want to do a faux inlay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Page_Master Posted October 27, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2003 thanx again for all your contributions. Page. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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