Jump to content

All Mahogany Bass, What Do You Guys Think?


Recommended Posts

OK, thought that might be what you were talking about, and we do call it a planer on this side of the pond. But I wouldn't consider it a good tool for jointing boards. If the bottom isn't flat and straight, the top won't come out of the planer flat and straight. It WILL, come out parallel to the bottom. You can put your board on another board which is already jointed/flat, but even that isn't perfect.

yeah i know just do a bi o' math and elevate it were needed :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a question though, Hector, do you have a router available? A bolt on neck is thin enough that you can easily make a laminate joint with a router. It's a simple trick, you router both edges at the same time.

Todd

hey todd, yes I do have a router. And I'm gonna try to make laminates with it. but my router bit is not long enough to do both edges at the same time. I spent some time thinking about it, and it hit me that I can try to thickness the wood in my drill press with the robo sander! I'm gonna try that ASAP.

more great news, went to a neighbor city and found some purpleheart!!! not the size I wanted but its ok.

now I got 4 boards of flatsawn wood (20mm thick, 120 cm long, and 8 cm wide) that I should be able to make a quartersawn laminate. I also got one board that had some flame on it. And I decided to use it as a top (4 piece, 2 bookmatched sets).flame top

here it is! paty004.jpg

more pics here.

bass album

I got a question, the wood was very purple when I got it.I cut and sanded, and now it's brown! you can see the diference in the picture. the brown pieces are sanded and finished with french polish.

will it oxidize to purple later on? If I leave the wood unfinished will this happen faster?

thanks for everything guys!

Edited by Hector
Link to comment
Share on other sites

HECTOR:

STOP

WAIT

DESIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

NO ROBOSANDER!!!!!!!!!!!

YOUR BIT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE LONG ENOUGH TO GO THROUGH TWO BOARDS AT ONCE, THAT IS NOT HOW YOU DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

YOU PUT BOTH BOARDS LYING WITH THE EDGES THAT WILL GET GLUED TOGETHER FACING EACH OTHER, SEPARATED BY A TOUCH LESS THAN YOUR ROUTER BIT WIDTH.

THEN CLAMP ON A STRAIGHT EDGE TO GUIDE THE ROUTER AND SLOWLY ROUTER BOTH FACES AT ONCE. THIS CREATES TWO MATCHING FACES AT THE SAME TIME.

IF YOU STACKED THEM, THEN ANY POINT THAT ISN'T STRAIGHT WILL CREATE A GAP.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Hector,

Glad I caught you in time.

If you're two edges are really off when you start, you may wind up making a few passes, moving the boards a touch closer each time and tweaking where the straight edge is. The best set up I've seen for this clamped the boards between two saw horses and clamped a straight edge to one of them, but there are lots of ways to skin this one. Given how nicely you shaped that body, I'm sure you have plenty of woodworking skill to figure out how. Just take your time setting everything up so your strait edge and the boards don't move by accident. My straight edge moved once and I killed a nice edge and a pretty board.

Be safe!

Todd

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...