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Lp Inspired Build


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Neck woods: flamed maple / 0.6mm black dyed poplar veneer / 0.6mm flamed maple veneer / 0.6mm black dyed poplar veneer / zebrawood / 0.6mm black dyed poplar veneer / 0.6mm flamed maple veneer / 0.6mm black dyed poplar veneer / flamed maple

Overall 9 pieces, and it wasn’t too difficult to clamp up, I was surprised!

Body wood: African mahogany, one piece. I have a nicely bookmatched flamed maple top to go over this to make it a semi-hollow body. I plan on doing a f-hole or two. Right now I only have one cavity routed out, and the others have been reduced using forstner bits.

I plan on doing a carved top with tons and tons of binding and some fancy inlay.

body. I drew the design in SolidWorks and had a template laser cut. I am not finished routing the cavities out yet, but you can see one is done, and the rest have the wood removed with a forstner bit, ready for routing. I might connect all of the cavities by removing the wood where it breaks them up. Still not sure on that one

neck laminate

ebony fingerboard

flamed maple top

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lots done today:

-decided to make one giant cavity instead of the 5. the body is completely routed now, ready for the neck pocket route which i still have to plan for

-cut the taper into the fingerboard, still need to decide on an inlay and do that and then radius it

-scarf joint has been cut, glued, and sanded flush ready for the fingerboard to be glued

actually thats not so much, but progress is progress.

id post more pictures, but its not really necessary.

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Why did you decide against 5 cavities?

no specific reason, just a few things i considered. i wanted it louder when unplugged, and this will help a bit. i also wanted it lighter, and to have the option of two f holes if i chose. having the wood remain on the right side would have caused problems for the f hole by the controls.

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got the neck routed for the truss rod, tapered, and cut to closer dimensions for when i route it in the shape of the tenon. still have to laser cut the template for the neck tenon though, but hopefully i can get that done by mid next week. heres the mock up so far with the body routed out more ready for the maple cap.

mock3.JPG

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Both your builds are looking great

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i got the neck pocket template and control cavity templates laser cut this morning, then routed the control cavity. i'll take pictures by the weekend!

i'm still working on a f hole design to laser cut a template for, but havent come up with anything i like. hopefully i can draw a decent one by tomorrow so i can have that done since i leave for home and wont have access to the woodshop here since the semester is over

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it is a little narrow yes. i may end up gluing some wood where the TOM would go just to give it some extra support. there is about 5/16" on either side of the ends of the lugs without it though, so we'll see. although i did take that into account in my template the bit ate about 1/4" under the template on one side, so i evened it out on the other. i'm not concerned seeing as how it will be covered, and with the location of my f holes it will be impossible to see the blocks if i glue them in.

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  • 3 weeks later...
im not really sure what that stripe is on the right of the maple top, im assuming it will sand out (it better!)

Was there any tape on it at any time? I've seen something similar when a bookmatched top was taped together for shipping. Anyhow, if it doesn't sand out, just call it a racing stripe that you made on purpose. J

Edited by jmrentis
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I sanded the radius into the fingerboard after gluing it to the neck and filling the gaps between the inlay and neck with epoxy and ebony dust. I still have to stain the board black and install the frets. The last two inlays didn't come out so great. Somehow they got sanded too thin and ended up cracking, the last one more so than the second to last one. I don't know how it happened, but the inlays I got from Stew Mac were on the thin side to begin with. Its not the end of the world and I can fill it with epoxy and dust, but it just really sucks that it happened and it won't be perfect. Right now its bugging me, but I'm not going to start over because of it. That just adds to the personality of it, and after all, it is a homemade guitar. I know right away that I will get attacked saying I should start over if its not perfect, and people will say that I did the same move on my first guitar. Unfortunately I do not have piles of money or free time to do that, and I am very proud of the work I've done thus far on this neck. This guitar is for me and me only, if it were for a customer (not that I'd ever be good enough to sell one) I obviously could never let that be on the guitar. Yeah it stinks that it isn't 100% flawless, but it won't effect how it plays, and I am far more concerned with how my guitars play than anything else.

neckboard3.JPG

fingerboard 2

fingerboard 3 :D

Edited by wwwdotcomdotnet
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phew, all that being said does anyone have any suggestions to fix the fingerboard up? I am thinking I should just go with it as is and fill the spot with glue and dust. I definitely would love to hear some advice, although I know most of it will be to start from scratch, or most forum veterans will avoid this altogether.

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matt, i was planning on staining it because some of the spots where the gaps were are somewhat visible if you are looking for them. i only sanded to 120 grit today, so maybe this weekend i will sand to 400 and see what it looks like. if its not too bad i definitely wont stain it, but i was thinking about it to cover the epoxy/dust since they are a slightly different shade than the rest of the board

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