avengers63 Posted January 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 I taped up the neck today. I can finally start spraying it. Someone here told me that my instincts were telling me something for a reason, and that when that happens, I should probably go with it. So I taped over the hole for the truss rod screw. I don't know if it'll make any real difference, but something was telling me to do it. Here's a question that I'm certain has been asked before. Since I'm using spray can lacquor, how many coats should I lay down? I know it's subjective to how thick I make each one, so for discussion purposes let's say that I'm doing them on the thick side, but not so thick there's wrinkles, drips, or orange peels. Is there a general rule of thumb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 if you havnt sprayed before i would say to start with light coats rather than go for thick ones. as for how many, that depends on a helll of a lot of factors but i have to say - till you dont sand through it.. you wont really know till you get a few on but for spray cans i would go for around 12 light (but still wet) coats. for me a coat light consists of around 3 passes over the whole thing. the first pass looks a little dusty, but by the 3rd pass you should have enough lacquer to make it look wet without being heavy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need2retire Posted January 19, 2008 Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 It's been a while since anything has happened. Suppliers have been backed up or just plain occupied with Christmas, so nothing new has arrived. I'm still waiting on the neck. I bought one that's maple & padauk that's in the cue to be finished up and sent out. All I've been doing is slowly getting hardware. Until last night, that is. The dude who's making a few parts for me sent me a pic of the stuff. DUDE! He only charged me $27 (with shipping) for the PG, pup plate, and control plate. I'll post a pic of the stuff on the body when it comes in. I'm really anxious to get some equipment next year and start making these things myself. I know that assembly won't compare to making it from the ground up, but we all gotta start somewhere. Where did you find the "dude" that made your pickguard? Is he on Ebay? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted January 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 (edited) Where did you find the "dude" that made your pickguard? Is he on Ebay? Thanks. Wood pickguards on eBay Yea, he's an eBay seller. That's his page of item's being sold. If that doesn't work for whatever reason, his user name is 9346billc. He was great to work with and had VERY reasonable prices. Edited January 19, 2008 by avengers63 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted January 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 I used most of a can of lacquer on the pup ring, control plate and pickguard. The neck is slowly being sprayed, I still haven't been to my brother-in-law's to drill the holes for the bushings & neck screws. In about 3 weeks, the first batch of stuff (rung/plate/pg) will be cured and ready to buff out. Here's a logistical question. All of the pieces are small - too small to clamp down. How well, or badly for that matter, would it work if I screwed the pieces to some scrap plywood to stabilize them through the process? Are the screws (normal p/g screws) going to tear up the sandpaper? Would I be better off just holding them down by hand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted January 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2008 Follow up question: I didn't seal/spray the backs of these thin pieces at ALL. I think I remember doing one coat of sanding sealer on the backs, but I'm not positive. When the tops are wetsanded, will this moisture going to soak in through the bottoms? With that in mind, should I give the bottoms a coat or three of lacquer just in case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted January 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2008 Alright, guys... I need y'all to tell me what to do here. The small pieces have been sitting and curing for a week now. I read that a general rule of thumb is if you hold the piece to your nose, take a big sniff, and don't smell the finish, then it's ready to sand up & buff. I've also read this should take 3-4 weeks. It's only been a week, but I can't smell any lacquer on the small pieces. My wife can't either. Do I wait another couple weeks, or am I safe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anderekel Posted January 27, 2008 Report Share Posted January 27, 2008 I'd say wait, why take the risk? You're gonna have to wait for the body to cure anyway aren't ya? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiki Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 man, this project is amazing! I loved the body, and the idea of doing everything in wood! I have nothing to explain or help you, but I'm waiting for the next photos! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted January 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 Do I wait another couple weeks, or am I safe? Any input from the veterans here? (Nothing personal, anderekel) I never say this to anyone, but seriously - tell me what to do here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anderekel Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 Do I wait another couple weeks, or am I safe? Any input from the veterans here? (Nothing personal, anderekel) I never say this to anyone, but seriously - tell me what to do here. no offense taken. I don't know if I'd trust me either lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 I used most of a can of lacquer on the pup ring, control plate and pickguard. The neck is slowly being sprayed, I still haven't been to my brother-in-law's to drill the holes for the bushings & neck screws. In about 3 weeks, the first batch of stuff (rung/plate/pg) will be cured and ready to buff out. Here's a logistical question. All of the pieces are small - too small to clamp down. How well, or badly for that matter, would it work if I screwed the pieces to some scrap plywood to stabilize them through the process? Are the screws (normal p/g screws) going to tear up the sandpaper? Would I be better off just holding them down by hand? I would hold them in my hand....alot of way to do this...mount buffing wheel in vice or fix sand paper to something and move the part over it....kind of like shaping a nut....I do it in my hand no vice,get it close with grinding wheel and finish with files and sand paper then 00 steel wool....I just used that as a ex. ,I know you get the idea.I would not screw down the parts.JMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 Follow up question: I didn't seal/spray the backs of these thin pieces at ALL. I think I remember doing one coat of sanding sealer on the backs, but I'm not positive. When the tops are wetsanded, will this moisture going to soak in through the bottoms? With that in mind, should I give the bottoms a coat or three of lacquer just in case? If your not going to see the under parts ,you can seal them with lintseed oil, just coat it good ,it will keep moisture out.If you already lacquered them they should be good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted February 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 I FINALLY HAVE SOME MORE PROGRESS!!!!! It's a snow day here in the St. Louis area. We don't get much snow around here, so when we get 8 inches overnight, the area pretty much shuts down. And it's on a Friday, too. Darn the luck! This means I can sand up the small pieces! And sand them I did. 1000 grit 1200 grit 1500 grit It was at this point that I noticed the gunk building up in the screw holes. GUNKY!!! Oh well. It's only the screw holes. Once a screw is in them.... 2000 grit 2500 grit I knew going into the polishing that there would be grain lines on the padauk. I should have used grain filler. This'll be one of those lessons learned for the future. The padauk mirrored out really nicely. The maple... not so much. Is this just the nature of maple? Anyway, now that these pieces are all sanded up to 3000 grit, how should I do the final polish? I don't have an arbor or a wheel for the drill, and I'm not in a position to buy one. That only leaves doing it by hand. What are my options, and how would I go about doing it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 Thanks for the compliment (in your PM), but I think the man to ask is Drak --he's the resident finishing guru here, and he's got a lot more experience working with maple. From my own experience --the maple I used really seemed to drink up the finish (I didn't use sealer because I hadn't found any yet), and it does it pretty unevenly. So while most of the surface polished up well, I had a few dull spots. I don't know if that's what you're experiencing. I don't use any kind of polishing/buffing wheel or machinery anymore. I much prefer the Micro Mesh Finishing Pads --they're not that expensive, they last a long time, and really makes the magic happen. By the time you get to 12000, you're looking into a mirror. Looks great on the fretboard too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 Why did Drak remove his posts, yet again from a thread where he was helping out?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted February 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Why did Drak remove his posts, yet again from a thread where he was helping out?? I'm only speculating here... I think I made him mad last week. He was being a weenie in a different thread. I stepped in and pleaded for him to stop being antagonistic. A moderator eventually stepped in as well. I'm guessing that I made him mad, so he deleted his comments. Who knows. If that's the case, it's a real shame. I'd like to have had his input here. I'd like to have ANYONE'S input, actually! One option has been put out there for the Micro Mesh Finishing Pads. I'd love to hear other options. (hint hint hint!!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 I will answer Perry's question, just for the record. Drak: Normally, I really enjoy your posts, and I have great respect for your knowledge. In this instance, however, you're really being a putz. I will say this: The people who stopped and posted and voluntarily took time out of their day to help me out when I was learning, (and I can probably name every one of them, even all these years later), I would never have the bold audacity to call them a name, or to guess their motives, or to tell them what they should or should not do, or to 'get in their business'. Especially the ones who not only stopped by to post once, but stuck with me repeatedly thru some difficult processes I was trying to learn, I remember them the most of all. I have great respect for them, because they didn't have to help me, but they did it anyway. Obviously, you have a rather different opinion on this, which is fine, everyone has the right to their own opinions. The meaning here is quite clear and simple to understand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Thanks for the compliment (in your PM), but I think the man to ask is Drak --he's the resident finishing guru here, and he's got a lot more experience working with maple. From my own experience --the maple I used really seemed to drink up the finish (I didn't use sealer because I hadn't found any yet), and it does it pretty unevenly. So while most of the surface polished up well, I had a few dull spots. I don't know if that's what you're experiencing. I don't use any kind of polishing/buffing wheel or machinery anymore. I much prefer the Micro Mesh Finishing Pads --they're not that expensive, they last a long time, and really makes the magic happen. By the time you get to 12000, you're looking into a mirror. Looks great on the fretboard too. Anyone know where to get the micro mesh pads in Canada (Canadian source)? Those things would be real useful for cutaways and such. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted February 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Anyone know where to get the micro mesh pads in Canada (Canadian source)? Those things would be real useful for cutaways and such. Doesn't Stew-Mac ship to Canada? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 I will answer Perry's question, just for the record. Drak: Normally, I really enjoy your posts, and I have great respect for your knowledge. In this instance, however, you're really being a putz. I will say this: The people who stopped and posted and voluntarily took time out of their day to help me out when I was learning, (and I can probably name every one of them, even all these years later), I would never have the bold audacity to call them a name, or to guess their motives, or to tell them what they should or should not do, or to 'get in their business'. Especially the ones who not only stopped by to post once, but stuck with me repeatedly thru some difficult processes I was trying to learn, I remember them the most of all. I have great respect for them, because they didn't have to help me, but they did it anyway. Obviously, you have a rather different opinion on this, which is fine, everyone has the right to their own opinions. The meaning here is quite clear and simple to understand. Sounds fair enough!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted February 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Drak: Normally, I really enjoy your posts, and I have great respect for your knowledge. In this instance, however, you're really being a putz. The meaning here is quite clear and simple to understand. Sounds fair enough!! Too bad you're only getting one side of the situation. That one side is not only well out of context but the information is picked & chosen to serve only one side, not to tell the entire story. All I'll say on this matter is this: I thought his shoulders were broad enough to handle being called to the mat. That the moderator eventually warned both arguing parties to stop serves as backup to my position. It would seem that at this point, Drak is intent on being offended and is taking his ball & going home. I'll say no more on this here. It's juvinile and will only hijack the thread. So... any other options for polishing out the finish by hand? I was considering a lamb's wool pad and a polishing agent, but I don't know if that's appropriate. Would the Stew-Mac pads be easier in the long run? If it'd be a wash, I have a hunch the wool/polish might be more cost effective down the line. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted February 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2008 I stumbled across a thread mentioning Maguires swirl remover/polishing agent and that it's an automotive finish product. So I figgered "What do I have to lose?" DUDE! It didn't take long for the lacquer to completely mirror out. The wood looks a foot deep. This is EXACTLY what I was wanting to see. You can't really see it in the pics, but it's just like glass and totally reflective. I'm REALLY excited now! I can't wait until the whole thing is ready to go. It's extremely gratifying to have something go just the way it's supposed to with no real glitches. It's a pleasant change of pace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted February 5, 2008 Report Share Posted February 5, 2008 Too bad you're only getting one side of the situation. That one side is not only well out of context but the information is picked & chosen to serve only one side, not to tell the entire story. Then give us the entire story, I'd love to hear it. I quoted you directly, and was trying to keep it brief. Personally, I'd love to hear how you came to involve yourself in a thread which you had no real business in in the first place. You posted absolutely nothing whatsoever about the thread topic. Then calling someone who repeatedly went out of their way to help you derogatory names. That, my Conflict Resolution Specialist friend, says far more about you than it does me. I've been called a million names while I've been here, I am no stranger to being called all kinds of things, and most people who have been here awhile will know that that bothers me exactly Zero. The point is, you just don't deserve any further help from me, that's all, no big deal. ...You want to be a MOD, don't you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Posted February 5, 2008 Report Share Posted February 5, 2008 Too bad you're only getting one side of the situation. That one side is not only well out of context but the information is picked & chosen to serve only one side, not to tell the entire story. Then give us the entire story, I'd love to hear it. I quoted you directly, and was trying to keep it brief. Personally, I'd love to hear how you came to involve yourself in a thread which you had no real business in in the first place. You posted absolutely nothing whatsoever about the thread topic. Then calling someone who repeatedly went out of their way to help you derogatory names. That, my Conflict Resolution Specialist friend, says far more about you than it does me. I've been called a million names while I've been here, I am no stranger to being called all kinds of things, and most people who have been here awhile will know that that bothers me exactly Zero. The point is, you just don't deserve any further help from me, that's all, no big deal. ...You want to be a MOD, don't you? 'Defender of the Tragically Oppressed' per Drek I'll reply to Drek.....I would tell them to go back to the thread you posted in ,but you removed most of your spouting off.Keep your stuff with me ,if you can .He just did not say what you wanted.You can not handle the truth !!!! He no longer wants your help.Hey Wes V help a brother out , your skills are far better anyway.You ask me to ask the forum if you were right ,and I did ,but as usuall it did not go your way. I quoted you directly, and was trying to keep it brief. No you did not , the brief part was what you choose , post it all or nothing !!! I've been called a million names while I've been here, I am no stranger to being called all kinds of things, and most people who have been here awhile will know that that bothers me exactly Zero. Then why are you being such a baby....I know six year olds more muture then you. Personally, I'd love to hear how you came to involve yourself in a thread which you had no real business in in the first place. You posted absolutely nothing whatsoever about the thread topic. He also PM'ed you as to why he did it and you went off on him( peace maker ) ring a bell Yes, he did ...he responded to me, and I responded to you.....and now you take another topic off thread for your enjoyment....again!!!! So why are you invloved in a thread you don't want to be in and have nothing to offer. You want to be a MOD, don't you? If being like you is wanting to be a Mod .......you can keep it....do you think Mod stands for,do what ever you want with out any consequence.If you do not want to post on this thread , stay out.Drek is mad at me and taking it out on someone else, period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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