gonzosc1 Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 had time today to sand down front ,back and sides. 60 grit with palm sander before pics after... first discovery! its not a one piece body, its a three piece...... the big upper wing and lower 1/4 as you can see that buckle rash stain on the back is still showing even after going over the back three times. don't know how much more it will come out as I sand with finer grains. what would be a good way to hide this while trying to keep as much of the natural color as possible????????? still have a lot of hand sanding to do on the bevels and corners Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 It would be nice if you had a 4' straight edge around, you have to be careful of the orbital sanders on a body that has as many pointed ends as that, you can find yourself getting the body as a whole 'out of flat' after sanding awhile, laying a 4' straight edge across the body will let you know if you have any humps or dips to worry about. You might want to switch to a Large piece of flat wood with sandpaper taped to it to help you get back to flat and level if you need it. I think it's going to be nice! Hey, exactly what is going on with that neck? I can't quite see what the neck story is from the pics... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gonzosc1 Posted January 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 It would be nice if you had a 4' straight edge around, you have to be careful of the orbital sanders on a body that has as many pointed ends as that, you can find yourself getting the body as a whole 'out of flat' after sanding awhile, laying a 4' straight edge across the body will let you know if you have any humps or dips to worry about. You might want to switch to a Large piece of flat wood with sandpaper taped to it to help you get back to flat and level if you need it. I think it's going to be nice! Hey, exactly what is going on with that neck? I can't quite see what the neck story is from the pics... good point on the 4" straight edge. I'll get one before going to the next flat sand. I was thinking about the larger sanding blocks myself. just had to get that first sand out done. the sides and bevels will prove to take alot of time. as for the stain on the back ,what do you think on that???? I wiped it down with a damp rag and it still shows. do you think this will lighten more as I sand down with finer grit?? the neck is maple. I have the fingerboard removed. need to replace truss rod as it is rusted badly. the paint was sanded off by the first owner but still has sealer coat on it. I haven't done anything to the neck yet. looking at hand sanding neck and head then dye and oil it and try to match up the color as best I can. question,, when I strip the head I'm sure that the veneer top on it will come off as it has already started to pull up in a small area. would I have to replace this small top or could I leave it with just the bare maple???????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 +1 Drak, because that's exactly what happened with my Explorer..... *big sigh* Now I do all of my sanding with various assorted Corian cutoffs. And I don't think you HAVE to replace the veneer. You could if you wanted to, especially if the wood underneath isn't all that attractive, or if the builder was trying to hide a scarf joint, like I did Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 question,, when I strip the head I'm sure that the veneer top on it will come off as it has already started to pull up in a small area. would I have to replace this small top or could I leave it with just the bare maple???????? Have you tried lifting up the piece of veneer? If it comes off easily you could remove the whole piece then glue it back on or replace it. If it is stuck fast apart from the lift you could just glue that bit back. With the buckle rash stain does it still look pronounced when you wipe the wood with turps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 What a difference cleaning up the wood makes. All that great looking mahogany hiding under all that poo. It's ALREADY a significant improvement. I'm looking forward to seeing the progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gonzosc1 Posted January 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 (edited) question,, when I strip the head I'm sure that the veneer top on it will come off as it has already started to pull up in a small area. would I have to replace this small top or could I leave it with just the bare maple???????? Have you tried lifting up the piece of veneer? If it comes off easily you could remove the whole piece then glue it back on or replace it. If it is stuck fast apart from the lift you could just glue that bit back. With the buckle rash stain does it still look pronounced when you wipe the wood with turps? well my concern is the stripping. either by chem or heat gun, I think it will pull up alot as I take the paint off. I don't know the history of how this bass got into such bad condition. but from what I see it looks like it went through many climate changes with no protection maybe sitting in a damp garage or something. the truss rod, pickup mags and machines have a good bit of rust. so I'm think that the veneer will pop off no matter what I use to strip it. the buckle rash still shows when wet. its not bad but its there Edited January 29, 2008 by gonzosc1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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