String Through Body, Or Tail Stop?

[John Abbett]

Hi all.

I was thinking about using string through body Ferrules on my latest build. Is the only difference between that and a tail stop cosmetic? Does it affect the sound of the guitar?

-John

[Xanthus]

So I'm going to grill you for a paragraph or two about using the search function, and I'm going to dig up that funny picture with Sir Alec Guinness to go along with it.

...

Ok, wasn't that fun? I know for a fact that there are a few threads about this, and one that I've contributed heavily in. That aside, here's my $.02 again.

I like my steaks medium-well. I like my strings medium stiff. And I feel that eliminating as much "dead string" as possible, i.e. behind the nut and bridge, will give the strings a stiffer feel. I know some people will respond with "well, if the string's tuned to the same pitch, the tension on the string is the same, and therefore it can't be floppier than a different setup tuned to the same pitch." And I realize this. But for me it's a strange tactile thing. Because when you're bending a note, you're also bending the whole string, including the "behind the scenes" string. It just feels different to me. But the opposition (stated above) isn't wrong, either. Tension is the same when tuned to the same pitch. It's just a strange tactile thing.

People say that stringthrough offers better sustain, but my opinion is that things like pickup strength/string pull, wood type, and whether the neck is quartersawn factor in just as much, and in some cases moreso.

So now I'm going to end my post the way I usually do and say it's your own personal preference. I'd get to the nearest shop and find whichever setup feels/plays/sounds the best to you.

[John Abbett]

So I'm going to grill you for a paragraph or two about using the search function, and I'm going to dig up that funny picture with Sir Alec Guinness to go along with it.

...

Ok, wasn't that fun? I know for a fact that there are a few threads about this, and one that I've contributed heavily in. That aside, here's my $.02 again.

I like my steaks medium-well. I like my strings medium stiff. And I feel that eliminating as much "dead string" as possible, i.e. behind the nut and bridge, will give the strings a stiffer feel. I know some people will respond with "well, if the string's tuned to the same pitch, the tension on the string is the same, and therefore it can't be floppier than a different setup tuned to the same pitch." And I realize this. But for me it's a strange tactile thing. Because when you're bending a note, you're also bending the whole string, including the "behind the scenes" string. It just feels different to me. But the opposition (stated above) isn't wrong, either. Tension is the same when tuned to the same pitch. It's just a strange tactile thing.

People say that stringthrough offers better sustain, but my opinion is that things like pickup strength/string pull, wood type, and whether the neck is quartersawn factor in just as much, and in some cases moreso.

So now I'm going to end my post the way I usually do and say it's your own personal preference. I'd get to the nearest shop and find whichever setup feels/plays/sounds the best to you.

Sorry, I didn't use the search function. My bad. I will now go and become enlightened by the questions asked by those who came before me.

-John

[aidlook]

I like my steaks medium-well. I like my strings medium stiff. And I feel that eliminating as much "dead string" as possible, i.e. behind the nut and bridge, will give the strings a stiffer feel. I know some people will respond with "well, if the string's tuned to the same pitch, the tension on the string is the same, and therefore it can't be floppier than a different setup tuned to the same pitch." And I realize this. But for me it's a strange tactile thing. Because when you're bending a note, you're also bending the whole string, including the "behind the scenes" string. It just feels different to me. But the opposition (stated above) isn't wrong, either. Tension is the same when tuned to the same pitch. It's just a strange tactile thing.

Actually the length of the "dead string" as you call it does matter since the string has a degree of elasticity. It's true that the tension is going to be the same over the whole length of the string, but module of elasticity applies as percentage of elastic deformation over the entire length. This means that the actual deformation measured in mm will be greater the longer the string is. imagine having a 10m long string at the required tension to be tuned to pitch over 25", this string will deform elastically a lot more than a 1m long string (although the relative deformation will be the same).

Edited February 7, 2008 by aidlook

[Xanthus]

Heh, it's cool, I was just giving you unnecessary grief

Thanks for elaborating on that, aidlook. You painted a clearer picture than I ever would have.

[John Abbett]

Thanks for getting on my case. I found at 4 threads exactly about my topic, and in additon I found info on brass tube for side dots which is interesting, I'll have to play with that.

Search is my new best friend. You did me a big favor.

_john

[Telesque]

Sorry, I didn't use the search function. My bad. I will now go and become enlightened by the questions asked by those who came before me.

-John

Way to be man, way to be.

Your Karma has gained 5 points.

Your Karma has risen to level 2.

You have learned the 'Cosmic Enlightenment' ability.

[Xanthus]

Brass dots are pretty cool I tried them on some scrap and found that they were too light on the maple and blended in with the rosewood. On ebony it would work well, maybe even better with silver or... yeah, silver.

[djhollowman]

Brass dots are pretty cool I tried them on some scrap and found that they were too light on the maple and blended in with the rosewood. On ebony it would work well, maybe even better with silver or... yeah, silver.

Going off topic I realise, but....

If by silver you mean actual silver, eg sterling silver (as opposed to silver-coloured metal) I would point out that silver tarnishes on contact with air, and even more so when in contact with.....you guessed it.....your skin! The chemical composition of your sweat will discolour it in no time. Everyone's a little different of course! Silver can actually go a nice black colour if left to tarnish enough. That's 18 years of experience working for a jewellery manufacturer talking.

Now, stainless steel on the other hand.....

DJ

[John Abbett]

Actually, the neck I'm working with is black walnut, with an ebony fingerboard. Black walnut body (Similar to an SG). Brass tubes would really pop. I will want to play with it, I wouldn't want the neck to shrink/move and make the tubes stick out, that would not be good on the fingers.I suppose if I relieved the edge a tiny bit it would keep you from getting cut, but it still wouldn't be good.

Larger brass tubes for the inlay for the fretboard? Except for the same problem, if the fingerboard wears over time, it will wear faster then the inlay. I guess you would have that problem with M.O.P. too wouldn't you? Am I just being paranoid?

-John

[ToneMonkey]

Brass dots are pretty cool I tried them on some scrap and found that they were too light on the maple and blended in with the rosewood. On ebony it would work well, maybe even better with silver or... yeah, silver.

Going off topic I realise, but....

If by silver you mean actual silver, eg sterling silver (as opposed to silver-coloured metal) I would point out that silver tarnishes on contact with air, and even more so when in contact with.....you guessed it.....your skin! The chemical composition of your sweat will discolour it in no time. Everyone's a little different of course! Silver can actually go a nice black colour if left to tarnish enough. That's 18 years of experience working for a jewellery manufacturer talking.

Now, stainless steel on the other hand.....

DJ

That (and the fact that silver scratches up fairly easily) in one of the reasons why my wedding ring is tungsten carbide. You could try that, but sanding it might be a bit difficult

[ToneMonkey]

Actually, the neck I'm working with is black walnut, with an ebony fingerboard. Black walnut body (Similar to an SG). Brass tubes would really pop. I will want to play with it, I wouldn't want the neck to shrink/move and make the tubes stick out, that would not be good on the fingers.I suppose if I relieved the edge a tiny bit it would keep you from getting cut, but it still wouldn't be good.

Larger brass tubes for the inlay for the fretboard? Except for the same problem, if the fingerboard wears over time, it will wear faster then the inlay. I guess you would have that problem with M.O.P. too wouldn't you? Am I just being paranoid?

-John

There's always sandpaper

[aidlook]

I've used aluminium on two builds, works great and easy to level

[John Abbett]

My local hobby store had a large seclection of brass tubing in a lot of sizes. If you can't find it locally, you might check this place out.

http://www.danscraftsandthings.com/istar.a...p;numperpage=16

[Xanthus]

Nope, I meant just anything with a silver hue to it, definitely not REAL silver. What're we making, boutique guitars here?

[Mattia]

I use real silver (not sterling, which contains real silver, but isn't what I mean when I say 'silver'). Sure, it tarnishes a little, but the fingerboard inlays I've used it on are fine more than two years later. Otherwise, well, silver polish is easily found...