Fretboard Removal

[CrazyManAndy]

I ran into an issue after gluing the fretboard to my neck. The fretboard moved slightly off the center line after I got it clamped up and left it to dry. I don't know how, I used pins to keep it in place, but it did move. In any case, I figure my only option is to remove the fretboard and re-glue it. I read the tutorial on the homepage and I'll follow that. It's a maplefb/maplenk neck and I used Titebond. I really want to avoid damaging the fretboard.

Tips anyone?

CMA

Edited April 24, 2008 by CrazyManAndy

[Setch]

Follow the tuorial, but disregard the comments about steam. You need heat to separate titebond, steam and/or moisture are not important, and could cause stains or watermarks on a pale coloured timber like maple.

[Mickguard]

Same thing happened to me -- I used pins, lots of clamps, but the board still slipped. I'm not sure why.

What I learned is to use slower-settng glue and double-check the placement a few minutes after you've clamped things up. That way you'll still have time to reposition things before it's too late.

And like Setch says, no need to use steam to remove it. The trick is to have a nice thin sharp blade.

Should he protect the maple against iron burns? (I've only removed rosewood boards).

[jmrentis]

That sucks it moved, that was something that greatly worried me as since I've been here I've heard and seen a number of slippage issues, even with the use of pins. So, I went overboard slightly, but it seemed to work well, though the way I did it might not work as well with a squared neck blank, I did a rough carve prior to gluing on the fretboad. To prevent slippage I used 4 pins, two at the first fret and two at the last fret. The pins were just the drill bits I used and I drilled the hole, then put the bit in backward and left them in until the neck was done drying. A couple got glued in since I used epoxy, but I just took a soldering gun, touched it to the pin for a bit and it pulled right out with no effort. Aside from the pins, what I think really prevented any slippage is the clamps that actually form to the neck shape, I got mine from Stewmac, but I've similar ones elsewhere. Anyhow, two of those and the pins and I couldn't imagine any slippage. Anyhow, may be worth checking those out, I thought they were very helpful for a couple different things, glad I got them. I also glued the neck up using a neck rest and two 8 inch radius blocks, in order to use those clamps I needed two smaller radius blocks instead of one long one. Anyhow, hope it all works out for you and you are able to salvage the board and reglue it up straight. J

Edited April 25, 2008 by jmrentis

[doug]

Here's a tip: don't shape the entire back of the neck until later. Leave 1/8" or so flat on either side, which should be parallel with the fingerboard edges. Once you clamp (assuming some sort of fixture/setup to accommodate clamping from the back) you simply need to place small blocks on either side of the neck and clamp. This forces the fingerboard to stay put. I place them at the heel, middle, and nut. After several hundred necks it's still 100% effective. Be sure to use something like wax paper between the blocks and the neck to keep from sticking. I actually coat the blocks with sealer then they don't stick.

-Doug

[MescaBug]

That's what I do. I always leave 1/4" on each side of the neck. Like Doug, I clamp blocks on each side at the heel and nut to keep the fingerboard centered. When it's glued, I route the remaining 1/4" on each side. No chances of slipping and I get a perfectly aligned neck/fingerboard.

I can't imagine trying to glue a fingerboard that is the exact same width as the neck... Too risky. And you don't have any tolerances whatsoever. If you're off by 1mm, you're done. You have to start again.

Edited April 25, 2008 by MescaBug

[doug]

I can't imagine trying to glue a fingerboard that is the exact same width as the neck...

Actually, this is exactly what I do. Neck and fingerboard are the same size. My comment may not have been clear enough. What I don't finish is the back profile until the fingerboard is on. I leave 1/8" of the back unshaped, which is that very last bit along the edge where the fingerboard joins. This way, the neck shaft and fingerboard are exactly the same width and taper. (important with bound fingerboards) The blocks line it all up and keep it there. I also pin for the initial position. The blocks act as a little extra protection from shifting.

-Doug

[Setch]

I didn't get what you meant the first time, but now I do - very smart!

I've not had any trouble since I started using pins, but I might try that technique anyway.

Cheers!

[CrazyManAndy]

Thanks for the tips guys! Huge help. I'm going to give it a go today. I'll report back if something goes awry.

CMA

[jmrentis]

I can't imagine trying to glue a fingerboard that is the exact same width as the neck...

Actually, this is exactly what I do. Neck and fingerboard are the same size. My comment may not have been clear enough. What I don't finish is the back profile until the fingerboard is on. I leave 1/8" of the back unshaped, which is that very last bit along the edge where the fingerboard joins. This way, the neck shaft and fingerboard are exactly the same width and taper. (important with bound fingerboards) The blocks line it all up and keep it there. I also pin for the initial position. The blocks act as a little extra protection from shifting.

-Doug

That is pretty dang good idea! Its more sturdy than the method I used, but in essence it works out the same in some ways. The reason it works close to the same is those form fitting clamps, once tightened the perfectly align the edges just as if they were still squared like in Dougs method. However, those clamps are less sturdy and apply less pressure than some regular clamps, so Dougs method is better. The only thing is I don't know how well I could leave the edges when using a spokeshave. Do you use one doug? If you did, then I trust it would be fine, if not I will have to test to see if I can carve the neck and still leave the ledges for glue up. Either way very cool idea and first time I've ever heard of it, or at least understood it. Thanks for sharing. J

[Mattia]

I've considered that option several times - I'd probably use spruce scraps superglued in place (easy to carve away). That said, to date I haven't had problems with two brad nails tapped in through frets 2 and 15 (roughly), then pulled out once the epoxy's set.