Mowcheeba Posted June 7, 2008 Report Share Posted June 7, 2008 I'm about to build a neck and was planning on making a truss rod like this one; How do I install it later? Does it need some kind of casing or do I secure it with the wood filler? Does it matter if the entire truss rod is threaded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted June 7, 2008 Report Share Posted June 7, 2008 Thread each end 1-2 inches. Actually only one end needs to be that long, the other just enough to thread the barrel nut on and then a little. Thread on the barrel nut and use a hammer to peen over the end of the rod and threads. Unthread the barrel nut until it sticks tight on the peened end. That will hold the rod from turning, then just lay it in the slot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mowcheeba Posted June 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2008 Thread each end 1-2 inches. Actually only one end needs to be that long, the other just enough to thread the barrel nut on and then a little. Thread on the barrel nut and use a hammer to peen over the end of the rod and threads. Unthread the barrel nut until it sticks tight on the peened end. That will hold the rod from turning, then just lay it in the slot. Thank you for the instructions. However the rod they have at the hardware store is threaded all the way. Does that matter? It shouldn't right? BTW...great tip to use the hammer to peen over the ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArieBombarie Posted June 10, 2008 Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 You can use a trussrod that's treaded all the way... most home made trussrods are... For your other question about the casing... You can just put it in and secure it with the wood filler but often some kind of sleeve is put over the trussrod in order to stop it from rattling inside the neck... Besides that, an additional sleeve will prevent the trussrod itself from being glued in the neck by any access glue from the wood filler. I use an ethernet cable for this, I remove the inner wiring and just use the outer mantel (is that english?) ... It fits the trussrod I use perfectly... Grz Arjan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted June 10, 2008 Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 You can use a trussrod that's treaded all the way... most home made trussrods are... For your other question about the casing... You can just put it in and secure it with the wood filler but often some kind of sleeve is put over the trussrod in order to stop it from rattling inside the neck... Besides that, an additional sleeve will prevent the trussrod itself from being glued in the neck by any access glue from the wood filler. I use an ethernet cable for this, I remove the inner wiring and just use the outer mantel (is that english?) ... It fits the trussrod I use perfectly... Grz Arjan I think the word your looking for is casing, or even material would work there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted June 11, 2008 Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 Something I posted a while ago. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...c=30697&hl= The truss rod should fit snugly, slot no larger than 1/4" across, 3/16" rod is the standard size. There has to be an arc carved along the bottom of the slot with about 1/4" difference between the center and each end. ie. center is 1/4" lower. Your wooden fillet should be carved to the same shape as the bottom of the slot and should be a pretty tight fit across the width. A little sealant (eg. latex caulking or silicone gasket seal) before inserting the truss rod will stop any potential rattling and use wood glue for the fillet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted June 11, 2008 Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 You don't *need* to curve the slot, but a curved slot will make for a more responsive trussrod. You can use a straight slot provided it is below the centreline of the neck all the way along it's length. If you use threaded rod, be sure to cover it as described earlier with insulation or plastic sleeving, or the threads will bite into the neck wood, and prevent the rod sliding smoothly in it's channel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshvegas Posted June 11, 2008 Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 I'm not expert or anything and i'm certainly not saying you are wrong setch i may be missing something but a straight trussrod channel would not be a good idea because you surely need to force the rod to act against the string pull? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicko_Lps Posted June 11, 2008 Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 As about that stew mac truss rod,i have one..I think that they say that the rod material is stainless steel,all i know of stainless steel is that its very hard...That one seems to me more like an INOX material than a stailess steel.Ive found a stainless steel rod but the threat cutting tool was not working cause it is very hard,even files do not work on that piece i have. As about that truss rod,i think the best way is the curved slot because it gives a smaller tension to the rod and that way you are a bit more sure and safe.If you use a straight slot be sure that the rod will be lower than the half of the neck thickness as Setch said.That means if your neck is total thickness with the fretboard is 2,5 cm,i would put that rod 1cm from the back of the neck. As about the curved slot,just make a curved template of your neck and get 5-7mm deeper below the 7nth fret. It might sound or seem a bit stupid to someone,but i must say that:in the point that the anchor nut and the screw will seat and tight on the wood you must go as the curve follows,otherwise you will be a bit unsafe or it will weaken the rod's strenght. The deeper the rod is located,the easyer it bends the neck and it will have less tension. In my opinion,go curved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshvegas Posted June 11, 2008 Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 (edited) Thinking it over i may retract previous statement! Edited June 11, 2008 by joshvegas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArieBombarie Posted June 12, 2008 Report Share Posted June 12, 2008 Now that we are on the subject.... I noticed in a lot of the building threads and blogs that a lot of times a different kind of wood is used for the filler wood. Is there a reason for this? Should you use a different kind, or is it just a case of using whatever is lying around the workshop? Grz Arjan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted June 12, 2008 Report Share Posted June 12, 2008 Thank you for the instructions. However the rod they have at the hardware store is threaded all the way. Does that matter? It shouldn't right? Don't use the stuff at the hardware store (allthread) it is fairly low grade metal, and has coarse threading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicko_Lps Posted June 12, 2008 Report Share Posted June 12, 2008 Thank you for the instructions. However the rod they have at the hardware store is threaded all the way. Does that matter? It shouldn't right? Don't use the stuff at the hardware store (allthread) it is fairly low grade metal, and has coarse threading. Yeap,he is right. Also a 5mm rod that is all the way threated is not 5 mm its actually 4,2mm(M5 x 0,8),so except what orgmorg said the rod is actually weaker than a solid rod that has only 1cm threat at the top and the end. Avoid it like hell.: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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