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Laser Scrimshaw Inlay Technique "how To"


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This thread is designed to give PG members a better understanding of an inlay technique I call “Laser Scrimshaw”. The idea is to get a lot of fine detail into a small single piece of inlay material. Often times the inlay is in a disc that can be set into a round pocket cut by a forstner bit. I have done these for several PG members (feel free to post pics guys) :D . This design will have 3 pieces total, but will give the illusion of having several dozen very small pieces. Anyway, here we go:

I always start with a motif, or design idea. In this case it is a “Harvest” motif. I decided to use wheat instead of grapes. I drew this up in CAD:

design.jpg

Next I put my inlay material in the laser, and engrave away about half the depth of the inlay material, exposing the detail that will show on the surface of the fretboard. All of the area that is burned away will be flooded with dyed epoxy. In this case I am using “pearlessence” acrylic. It has vivid colors, and sands very nice.

laser.jpg

An outline is then cut around the outer edge of the design to keep it in one piece. This pic also shows some nuke dot inlays similar to the ones I did for Carl’s Biohazard 8 string.

scrimshaw.jpg

Next the board, or headstock plate is indexed in the laser, and a pocket is cut to accept the inlay. This wheat design has very thin hairs as part of the design. They will be flooded with epoxy and become part of the design. The idea is to make them subtle so you can only see them up close. The maple piece will show the same design with more contrast.

pocket.jpg

Next I clean up the pocket with a Dremmel.

router.jpg

Then the inlay is fit, and adjusted if needed. Here I took the sharp edge off of the bottom.

fit.jpg

After it is fit, I blow out the pocket with compressed air, mix up epoxy with the desired color, and fill the pocket.

glue1.jpg

then the inlay is pressed in, and flooded over with dyed epoxy. Sometimes I use wax paper, and a weight to hold the inlay piece down. Dyed epoxy doesn’t always work well with maple, or opened grained woods. You can see spots in the maple piece where the dye leached into the grain in the finish pic, creating a stain.

glue2.jpg

After the glue dries, I skim off the excess in the mill.

mill.jpg

Then it’s carefully sanded.

sand.jpg

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Very neat stuff and great work! As for the epoxy, do you ever run into a couple bubbles surrounding the inlays? If so, do you bother attempting to fix them? Or do you have methods to preventing them? I ended up with a couple when doing my inlays mixed with some fine wood dust for color and I don't think adding epoxy would help, though maybe some thin CA would work, not sure though haven't tried that one. Again, excellent thread, really interesting stuff. Great pictorial. J

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Huntidoug that is a very very fantastic insight into inlaying which I enjoyed looking and reading, you are a true master at this work just a damn pity you are in the US and I'm stuck here in the UK as you would be doing all my inlay work which I have to do by hand which is not cost effective and labour intensive. Do you have a PM e-mail ?? I would love to know what prices you charge for certain jobs. PM through this board and I can e-mail you mu home e-mail and we can go from there CHEERS! :D

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I'm in the UK as well, and to be honest it's worth the additional shipping cost if you have that something special you want (need?) doing.

Here's the inlay Doug did for me - I fitted the inlays myself however as I wanted to try out this black CA I sourced in the UK. I got a few bubbles as you mentioned JM, but nothing that a quick drop fill with more CA couldn't fix.

biohaz_1.jpg

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Hey I just noticed you are in Lincoln!!!! I only live up the road so to speak in Nottingham!!!!!!!! nice to see some UK members and also not too far away :D That is a damn fine fingerboard and I have come to the stage now that it is just not cost effective to do anymore fancy inlays as it takes up too much of my time and basically any complex stuff I simply don't make a penny from it, this is why trying to get someone good and reasonable is what I have decided to do, do you build your own guitars and stuff ?? :D

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Hey I just noticed you are in Lincoln!!!! I only live up the road so to speak in Nottingham!!!!!!!! nice to see some UK members and also not too far away B) That is a damn fine fingerboard and I have come to the stage now that it is just not cost effective to do anymore fancy inlays as it takes up too much of my time and basically any complex stuff I simply don't make a penny from it, this is why trying to get someone good and reasonable is what I have decided to do, do you build your own guitars and stuff ?? :D

Luthiers of the A46, represent! :D

Doug or myself? We both build guitars! I have a few builds listed in my sig, whereas Doug has some which you should be able to find if you search his profile or website - http://www.parableguitars.com

Love those rod covers, Wez! I'm particularly fond of the one Doug made for me when I ordered that board....it just happened to set off the instrument's headstock really nicely. Are those abalone wafers meant to be set into your circular inlays?

Edited by Prostheta
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Hey I just noticed you are in Lincoln!!!! I only live up the road so to speak in Nottingham!!!!!!!! nice to see some UK members and also not too far away B) That is a damn fine fingerboard and I have come to the stage now that it is just not cost effective to do anymore fancy inlays as it takes up too much of my time and basically any complex stuff I simply don't make a penny from it, this is why trying to get someone good and reasonable is what I have decided to do, do you build your own guitars and stuff ?? :D

Luthiers of the A46, represent! :D

Another one here. B)

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